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Bodywork & Paint

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by iafraser39, Jan 21, 2011.

  1. iafraser39
    Joined: Aug 2, 2009
    Posts: 200

    iafraser39
    Member
    from Warmland

    The bodywork on my RPU was done about 15 years ago and was primed
    back then. I'm advised by the local shops that the car will have to be
    blasted down to bare metal and all the work redone. They are telling me that the new water based paints will not adhere to the prep. primer that was used or the filler. This ****s as I don't want to start again and incure the cost.
    The car has been stored in a dry garage all this time, so moisture should'nt be an issue. Am I being snowed here, or is this a reasonable request. We apparently can't use lacqer or acrylic here anymore for enviornemental reasons. Any comments and/ or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,291

    F&J
    Member

    Can you bring it to a shop out of the regulation zone? ....or find someone who can do what you want under the radar.
     
  3. CA. 280
    Joined: Jan 8, 2010
    Posts: 305

    CA. 280
    Member

    You may want to also post your question at autobodystore.com, lots of experts there.
     
  4. jb2wheeler
    Joined: Nov 5, 2008
    Posts: 46

    jb2wheeler
    Member

    I am far from an expert, but it seems to me that a good sanding and a coat of epoxy primer would handle the situation. JB2wheeler
     
  5. duecesteve
    Joined: Nov 3, 2010
    Posts: 1,208

    duecesteve
    Member

    Here in M***. u can still buy lacquer at auto zone in quarts $ 23.00 it is made by duplicolor they sell the thinner and primer
     
  6. Tri-Power
    Joined: Jun 23, 2008
    Posts: 153

    Tri-Power
    Member
    from Memphis

    What they may be saying is that they can't/won't be responsible if there are any ****ups in the new paint job. No one can be ***ured that the old bodywork was done well, or that moisture hasn't penetrated ther primer, other than the fact it has lasted 15 years........You have to ask yourself it is is worth the risk. It may well be.
     
  7. ronk16
    Joined: Mar 27, 2010
    Posts: 351

    ronk16
    Member

    they are ********ting you, i use basf waterborne products and use them over all kinds of solvent based products, water is just a pigment carrier, it flashes off just like oil based solvents. fix what you need to fix and prime the area and blend it out to the next panel.
     
  8. Fopelaez
    Joined: Sep 24, 2010
    Posts: 275

    Fopelaez
    Member

    can you paint a fender or so to make a test? you may be able to see if it adheres or not.
     
  9. 1time
    Joined: Dec 5, 2009
    Posts: 97

    1time
    Member
    from minnesota

    do you know what primer is on your car? if not try to find out, I will call my supplier & find you a compatable product to put over it, I highly doubt you'll have to strip it, Ive been painting for 20 years, but am just now in the process of switching my shop to envirobase products, I'll try to help any way I can
     
  10. iafraser39
    Joined: Aug 2, 2009
    Posts: 200

    iafraser39
    Member
    from Warmland

    Thanks folks I really apprecite it.
     
  11. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,325

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj

    Here's an opinion from a "semi-pro" body and paint guy.
    I would never put one of my paint jobs over someone else's work. You do not know how well the car was prepped, how good the bodywork is, how well they cleaned it before priming it, what kind of primer was on it, whether moisture has been absorbed into the primer, and rusted the metal underneath, etc., etc., etc....
    Other than that, waterborne paints CAN go over any type of modern primer...wouldn't try it over lacquer primer, though, but I dont' like putting modern paints over lacquer in ANY case, my preference more than anything.
    And how are you so sure moisture hasn't rusted the ssteel under the primer?
    Primer is VERY absorbent! That's it's job...to absorb the paint that goes on top of it, for good adhesion. It is very porous, and will even absorb moisture in the air. And you cannot tell by looking at it. I have seen may times that the primer surface looks perfect, but if you sand, or strip some of it down, you can see rusting underneath. It usually doesn't bubble up when it's in primer, but as soon as you seal it up with paint, it comes up!
    Unless you live in the desert, I would suspect there is rust under the primer, might even have absorbed into any plastic filler under it, as well as affecting the steel.
    Why take chances when paint is so damned expensive?
     

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