I'm gonna be doing break lines today for the first time I switched from a single chamber MC to a dual chamber MC so I was wondering if it matter what port on the MC the front or rear line goes into? And also should it all be hard lined or could I use rubber hose as well? Sent from my iPhone using TJJ
I use the later Mopar aluminum masters on just about everything. They are factory with the front line going to the back wheels and the rear line going to the fronts. I don't know why but I install them the same. Hope this helps.
should be all hard line except for the brake hoses at the wheels. I hope your not thinkng that fuel line and hose clamps will make it easier!
No I was thinking hard line but wasn't sure if that could be done or not! Can't do it that way cuz there is pressure right? Sent from my iPhone using TJJ
yeah, rubber line/hose clamps is doing good to hold 75 psi, brake pressures run around 1200-2200 psi depending on power/nonpower and what type of booster.
Hard lines, flared with threaded nuts & unions if necessary. You do want rubber hydraulic brake hoses at the wheels. Do not use compression unions. Do some research & take your time. Safety first.
I used braided steel from mc to the frame where I picked up hard lines then back to braided steel at the wheels....spoke with a couple venders at SEMA a couple years ago about it...they said it would be fine and referenced a few rock crawlers that where 100% braided steel.
Lol, using all braided line is expensive and reduces brake feel. Just because you can doesnt mean you should.
I CHEATED! I used steel lines all the way except for the two short hoses on the front wheels and one from the frame rail to the rear axle housing. But I did CHEAT! Gave up on my junk (off shore) flare tool. Instead of making each flare myself, I took the easy way out. Cut and bent all the lines where I wanted them and took the lines down to our buds at the local NAPA and they made the flawless flairs. Cost me a couple beers....... If I did this all the time I'd gladly invest in one of those pro grade, high $$ flare tools....
If you plumbed them both up and blind tested them both and could tell the difference I'll give ya dougtnut....didnt say it was cheap nor suggest he run the whole car...just referenced my info.
You can feel the difference, long ago we had a customer that was complaining that his brakes worked perfectly but were hard to modulate and felt funny. went over to his pit and looked it over, all braided and no hard line. He brought car over and we switched everything over to hard lines except for the hoses to the wheels. the next weekend he calls and says its a lot better, everything works great and the feel is much better. he was more than happy with the new stuff, a few weeks later his chutes failed and he really had to work the brakes hard to not be playing in the sand. He told me later that there was no way he could have gotten stopped without spinning the way it was before. No need for the doughnut.
Get yourself a good flare tool the first time and save yourself a headache,and practice on a few small pieces before you go ruining large lengths of line.
no problem...long ago??, his opinion, not blind tested and a racecar(?)..again im not suggesting our fiend run BS thru out his car...just that I ran some BS on my car and its 100% better than the stock 60 year old junk that was on my car...BS at the front wheels and MC to the frame. I ran BS on my German sportbike and feel the differance...way better. Also i think there was a BB mopar in the early 60's that ran rubber from the MC to a connection for 1 line. Just saying....
A road racer friend of mine made that same mistake. He didn't want to believe me when I told him the problem was the hose, but when he fixed it the problem went away.
um sounds like BS to me. yes braided steel line is better than stock rubber. as for using it for the entire length of the car and side to side your much better off using hard steel lines to do all of the long runs, and most of the short ones too. This is my professional opinion. Yours may be different and your certainly welcome to risk your customers lives on it.
You only need hose where there is movement. Hard lines require a lot of patience and the right tools. The only fittings, hard lines, and hoses that you use should be rated for use in brake systems. Brakes are no place to cut corners.
rubber only for the moving ends (to each front wheel and rear axle), get yourself a GOOD flare tool and bender (brake lines MUST have a double flare) or use the bulk line at the parts store with unions. it depends what master your using (disc or drum and what make) for 4 wheel drum brake masters most fords/chryslers are front port to rear and rear port to front and gms are front to front, rear to rear. also steel braided hose will flex where steel line wont, that's the difference in pedal feel (mainly under HARD braking). steel braided hose doesn't stand the test of time like metal tube, i've seen old braided hoses burst under normal brake pressure.
Run as much hard line as you can. You definitely need flex hoses between the frame and suspension elements that move up and down. Between the master cylinder and the frame you can use hard line with a couple loops in it to spread whatever little movement there may be over a longer length of line. The OEM's do this, you'll see many master cylinders mounted to a firewall and a proportioning valve mounted to the frame, joined by hard line with big coils in them. You might also consider this: http://www.fedhillusa.com/ Haven't used it myself, people who have like it a lot. Do a search for it here, there are a couple of threads. Edit: Be careful about matching the master cylinder bore to the caliper/ wheel cylinder bores. Do the homework, check with people like Master Power who supply complete systems.
How is this even a debate? Rubber line expands under pressure...end of story...yes even braided rubber hoses. You have to run hard line.
Are you using drums all round or drum/disc? You may want to plumb in a residual pressure valve. It will improve pedal feel and reduce travel. Beware that some master cylinders have these already installed tho. And please pressure test your brake job by literallly standing on the pedal for a good half minute. Have seen many brake jobs turn to **** because this simple check wasn't done. Good luck!
Can anyone give a reason why good quality compression fittings can't be used on brake line installations ? I worked with compression fittings for years and they worked in our applications up to 2200#. Now I'm talking 2 piece ferrule types of fittings where the back ferrule locks into the front ferrule.
all the automotive stuff i've seen is br*** and 2200 psi is way too much for br*** compression fittings. good quality steel compression fitting (like hyd or water) would be more expensive in the long run, easier and cheaper to just double flair.......remember also the more fittings the more places/chances to leak. i don't even like to run the adapters on the master cylinder, they make a nut kit for different masters and i've made my own for my '47 with 1/4" brake line to a chrysler master.
I'm running brake lines on my F1, have a dual reservoir master cylinder on the firewall and was running brake lines down to the proportioning valve, about 3 feet away. I just bent the lines enough to make the radii and ran them but didn't put any loops in them like I've seen on some vehicles. Now I'm second guessing myself, should I have put loops in the lines up near the master cylinder? I've heard different stories about the reasons for the loops but I've seen lots of cars, mainly older ones, that didn't have 'em. Any thoughts?
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