Thanks for the help. Here is what I got accomplished today. I ran a wire from my starter to the Power ON terminal of my Ignition switch. I ran another wire to the Alternator. The PUSH ****on start switch has two terminals; I ran one to the S side of the Starter and the other to Accessory side of the ignition. I get no response when I push the start ****on. I turn the key, push the start ****on and the starter tries to turn but just clicks.??????? Can I say that the Starting circuit is complete? Wait a second, my distributor? I have added a diagram of which type it is. It has two wires coming out, a green one, which I have terminated to one of the accessory pins on my ignition. I am not sure if thats where it should be connected. As for the black wire, Im not sure where it is suppose to go. It also has 3 wires coming from under the cap and into a 3P socket on the cap (C- GND B+) Just the sound of the starter clicking as I pushed the push start ****on made me happy. I still need to do other stuff like the drive shaft (shortened & balanced), add some sort of better braking system to it than the stock drums up front! I was thinking of picking up something at a junk yard 70s & 80s brake system. Brake booster. I could use any help, if anyone has a second to look at the diagram in my album and advice would be great. Thanks
ok, u didn`t say what kind of motor it is, but after seeing the distributor, i`m thinking a chevy, you only really need one wire to that distributor, to the batt terminal, that and hook up the 3 wire plug where it belongs, that`ll do that, sounds like you have you starter hooked up right, but did it turn over or just click, do you have another problem with it? it should spin the motor if all is well, not just click...
Depends what type of ign switch you have, some work strange as in the 40's GM's. first find what post on the ign is Batt in, then the on post on the switch would go to the push ****on, then from the push ****on to the starter not off the acc side of the switch, from the on side of the switch you run a wire to the alt to the exciter post, you may need to put a diode in that wire to have a one way gate for current to flow, don't forget you need a wire from the back of the alt to either the Batt post on the starter or to tn amp guage then to the starter, I'm guessing you have a 3 wire alt, one post and two spades, one spade needs a hot wire from the Batt post and the other is the ign switch.
This morning I tried swapping the Green & Black wire on my distributor - no difference. I did notice that the water pump pulley will turn a little bit, then the starter starts clicking. Next a will remove the starter and take it to get checked.
Clicky clicky usually tells me the battery is dead. What is happening is the solenoid is opening and closing but there is not enough current to keep it closed and the starter turning. Charge the battery. Once your engine turns easily, then figure out the ignition.
I tried another starter same thing. The battery is out of my 1953 pick up. It starts that up with no prob, but it is only a 235 and it has not been sitting for a couple of years. I wouldnt know how to try a remote switch.
will the the engine turn over by hand, sounds like the starter is working, just either the engine is stuck or the battery is dead. yes, you have an hei, just plug in the wires that come out of the bottom of the distributor into the cap, they will only go one way, then get a power wire from your ignition switch to the batt terminal on the cap, and for now don` worry about any of the others....that will be enough for it to run...
Thanks! Yea, i have a power wire running from my starter to the POWER terminal on my ignition and the BAT wire from my distributor going to the Power terminal as well. Another power wire from my starter going to one side of the push ****on. The other terminal from the Push ****on is going to the terminal on the ignition that only applies 12V when you turn the key.
You think It would be better to pull my Silverado next it and try jumping it with the truck running. That should eliminate the dead battery possibility?
Well trying to jump it with my silverado didn't work. It still will not turn. Just clcickclcikccliclcicl!!!! My friend mentioned it may have to be something electrical.
Check the cable from the battery to the starter.Also check the other side of the battery circuit....the ground.Does the battery have a good ground going to the engine? Make sure the battery ground and positive cables are the proper gauge and connection at both ends are clean..Your getting a voltage drop somewhere on the starter circuit.
If you had the starter out of the vehicle and jump it directly with a battery does it work correclty? One way to eliminate the starter
Click,click,click usually means low/dead battery,Bad battery connection either hot or ground. Jump it from a running vehicle.Make sure you have good connections on the jumper cables.
I actually have the battery from my truck and have jumper cables. The positive cable going to my start (BIG CENTER BOLT) and the ground post to the frame. I tried jumping with my silverado while it was running.
The gear of the starter comes out and fits right into the ****** gear like a glove. It just wont turn the torque converter. I can turn it manually, though.
Does the Negative ground have to go to the block. I used the jumper cables to ground it to the frame. The block is ground to the frame using a grounding strap
Try putting the ground cable to the engine block.You might have a poor ground between the frame and the engine.
No luck with putting th e negative jumper cable to the block, however the clicking did sound a bit louder. I am going to advance to get a positive battery cable to terminate straight to the starter. I will by p*** the jumper cables. Might as well get a negative battery cable too. Where will the negative battery cable will go to, the block or frame?
To understand your wiring, [ I somehow can't see your schematic ] So you should have: 1: a lead from the battery to the starter motor 2: a wire from the battery to the ignition switch 3: a wire from the switched side of the ignition switch to a starter ****on, then from the starter ****on to the starter motor solenoid [ all in series ] 4: a wire from the switched side of the ignition switch to the coil [or a HEI distibutor ] 5: a wire from the switched side of the ignition switch to an alternator light ,then to the exciter fields on the alternator [ using an internal regulated alternator ] 6: a charging wire from the alternator direct back to the battery 7: a ground wire from the battery to the engine [ or battery to frame ,then frame to engine ] Try turning it over by shorting a screwdriver from the starter main lead to the solenoid. Also put a jumper lead from the - neg on the battery direct to the engine [ the engine might not be grounded enough ]
Sosei, Kerry has it right.He beat me to it. Follow what he says cause it sounds like you have the switch wiring f--ed up. Do you have a schematic for your car? One other thing, if you have a volt meter, attach the POS. lead to the starter large terminal and ground the other lead (NEG) to the motor. Hit the start ****on and read the voltage at the starter. It should be 12 or 6 volts which ever system you are running,and then drop slightly as it cranks. If it takes a nose dive as soon as you hit the key you have either a dead battery or a bad battery. Good Luck! Normal Norman
No Schematic. just putting together from ground up. 1. A wire from the battery to the starter terminal (main lead) - Check 2. A wire from the starter terminal (main lead) to the ignition switch (Pin 1) - check - The ignition switch is a 3 Prong switch. Pin 1 = 12V from the starter main lead, Pin 2 = 12V only when key is turned, Pin 3 = 12V only when the key is turned 3. A wire from Pin 2 on ignition to the Start ****on to spade terminal, a wire from the other spade terminal of the start ****on is going to the 'S' post on the starter solenoid. -check 4. A wire from Pin 2 on ignition switch to the Distributor labeled BAT. - check 5. A wire from Pin 3 on ignition to Alternator. - check 6. A wire from my Alternator directly to the Starter (12V from Battery) - check 7. Using jumper cables I have the Negative post on the battery grounded on the frame. The Positive cable going to the Main lead on the Starter 8. The block is grounded to the Firewall with a grounding strap This is how its wired. The engine turns easily with the spark plugs removed. I could hear a swoosh alternating back and fourth as i turned it. As i was writing, I thought maybe I should try swapping the leads on the 2 prong Start ****on (the spade terminals are not labeled)
Start ****on makes no diff which wire goes to which terminal. First take a close look at your battery cables, sure sounds like a bad one. Are they new ? Still could be bad. Try another battery also. Have that battery load checked. A battery with internal problems can act as you have discribed. Otherwise your wiring sounds OK except you may need a diode in the wire from switch to alt.You will know if once running it does not shut off with the key.
The problem is trying to use jumper cables for battery cables. Jumper cable ends will not carry enough amperage to start most engines. Proper positive and negative cables will solve your problem. Connect the negative cable directly to the engine.
Your wiring sounds correct [ remember to fuse everything or use a fusable link to the main switch #5 You need a Alternator light on the wire to the exciter field The start ****on can also be wire live, I didn't ask before, but are you using an Auto trans? If so , wire the starter ****on in series through the inhibiter switch on the trans to the starter solenoid [ if you've already done this, check that the inhibiter switch isn't faulty ] On a Chevy , check for the correct pinion to flywheel teeth mesh & clearance, and also check that the flywheel is perfectly round [ yes this happens A LOT and the starter binds in one position ] Also on a chevy, you must use the correct knurled starter bolts
Look at item #7 on post #26. That is the problem. Jumper cables rather than battery cables. Install proper cables and problem should be solved.
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