I hate like hell to make a post like this, but here's the deal- Darling Lovely's '91 Civic munched its driver's side CV joint about 120 miles south in Terlingua, TX. word is local mechanics down there are nothing to write home about, so that's out. doesn't appear Honda CV's are expensive but I've yet to undertake one. any special tools or procedures involved? I plan to avail myself of said joint at the local CarQuest/Napa tomorrow and do the job, but as mentioned, any caveats and/or suggestions are most welcome. please feel free to email pic***oe@overland.net or send a PM since this ain't exactly a trad question....and my thanks in advance...
YOu're going to need at least your preferred ball joint and tie rod end popper, pickle fork or my favorite, two BFHs, the bigger hammer on the back of arm, swack hard with other, opposite the ball joint pin (with loosened nut) to get the hub away from the car. Then, some models need the spindle bearings pressed in and out. Not sure about that one.
I had a '91 civic and could change the drive axles on both sides in 15 minutes flat. Buy both sides at one time and see if you can get a discount. With two people, its a piece of cake. A BFH, a prybar/screwdriver, and other various tools is all you need. I didn't have a pickle fork when I did mine, just popped it with a big screwdriver on the bottom, then pulled the hub ***embly to the side. Give that drive axle a hell of a yank and it'll come out of the transaxle just fine. Getting the new one in is a trick, gotta shove really hard, but it'll go. The pop the other side back into the hub, but the lower bar back on and your good to go.
I used to be a Honda PRO Certified Tech @ in Richmond, TX. Plus I've owned & raced several Honda Civics, along with friends & brothers. First, Autozone/O'Reilly should have them for around $50/each side, but you gotta turn yours in for the core charge. REPLACE BOTH, don't skimp out on one, or you'll be doing the same thing again soon. You'll need a set of Metrics, sockets & wrenches both. You'll need a large 26 or 32mm socket to remove the axle nut. First start off by removing the lug nuts (19mm) and wheel(duh). Remove the Brake Caliper (two 12mm Bolts), no need to disconnect the hose though. Remove the Lower Balljoint Nut & Cotter Pin (one 17mm). Put the nut on the ball joint stud where the top of the nut is flush with the stud, and hit it a few solid times with a BF Hammer. It should pop out. If not, a balljoint remover will work, but usally destorys the balljoint, making for sloppy steering. Remove the two 14mm Bolts that hold the strut in place. Remove the big Axle Nut. Now pull the rotor outward. The axle shaft spline should slide out of the hub ***embly. When out and out of the way, use a medium sized pry bar and "pop" the axle out at the Inner CV joint by prying it away from the transmission. A small clip holds the axle in place, so don't pull on the CV joints. Pry them. You can feel it pop out sorta like a shoulder comes outta socket. Replace in reverse order. Grease the axleshaft splines on both sides. Make sure the new axles come with that retaining clip on the inner side, otherwise it no worky. When installing them, get them lined up and give a good solid shove and you should feel it "pop" in, just like it came out. Pulling outward lightly should help make sure it's locked in. Also, now's a good time to replace brake pads if needed. I think I covered all the stuff...It's been a while since I've worked for Honda, but I did an axle swap on my last Honda about 1.5 yrs ago, and did another swap in my friends drag car. Both took about 15 minutes per side. Pneumatic/Power tools mak it easy. Sometimes the outer spline is a pain in the ***, along with the rotor and strut being in your way. But, this is the easiest way. Good luck.
1)push til you hear the 'pop'-trust me... 2)remember the cotter pins. Having wheels fall off at high speeds ****!
Doc, 51, Jeepers and TXhdcr, thanks a million. I really appreciate the advice, it's going to help a lot. I'm on it like white on rice.
funny you should say rice in this cir***stance. And I mean no disrespect, unfortunately my daily driver is a civic.
hey man, nothing wrong with a Civic as a daily. I had my '96 Hatchback for 4 years. With less than 50k miles, I had upgraded the head & intake, ECU, Header, Exhust, Injectors, Fuel Pump, Suspension, brakes, installed a rollcage, and swapped out the front seats for racing buckets. This was my daily driver! It ran high 13's in the quarter mile, got 34mpg on the highway, and schooled Porsche's at the AutoX events. Cold A/C, Hot Heat, CD Player, Tint...it was the BEST damn car I've ever owned, and I kick myself in the balls for selling it. The only reason I sold it was because I had more OLD projects, and needed a hauler..which is where the Dodge ***mins comes in. Dan, good luck, let me know if you need any more ***istance. PM me if you want my phone number.
I don't know altogether much about Japanese FWD, I usually work on French FWD (Citroën). BUT, one of the nastiest jobs is a CX that someone has pried on the axle ***embly rather than smacking it out. It seems that when you simply pry on it, the clip can get jammed and requires the removal of the final drive to sort this out. So...... Smack that puppy out with a BFH and whatever is needed to apply that force, like a pipe. Worked well on the Toyo I did a few weeks back. Cosmo P.S. The above may only be a Cit thing, so don't get too frightened.
This is what I have harped on in the past. Poor old Dan having to apologize for needing help with his late model. To me, the guys who responded "get it" when it comes to the HAMB, helpin' a brutha' out. I have benefitted greatly from the late model techs on this board and I am very grateful for them. No shame in your game Dan, if you need help, you should be able to know that your HAMBrothers will help out.
GF, huh?...Quote "Everything seems so much easier now that she's moved out". Sounds like your tune has changed, cabellero. Well better keep those metrics polished up Heh heh heh
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