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need tunnel ram carb ID

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by rustynuts, Jan 18, 2011.

  1. rustynuts
    Joined: Dec 22, 2004
    Posts: 12

    rustynuts
    Member

    I have this tunnel ram and might put it on a built 327. I was told they are 660 centre squirter carns but there are no list numbers and the dual inlets are confusing too. Notice the carb on the right has two smaller inlets or outlets beside the main inlet...not sure what thats all about either.

    Thanks for any info.
     

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  2. Take a pic down the throat for me. The dual inets is something that someone has added I'm going to suggest that they also have dual metering blocks as opposed to the standard primary metering block and secundary metering plate.

    With the airhorns milled off you have lost the numbers but with a shot straight down the throat of the carb we can verify or rule out center squirt carbs.
     
  3. Larry T
    Joined: Nov 24, 2004
    Posts: 7,906

    Larry T
    Member

    With the mechanical secondaries they look a lot like 4224 centersquirters.
    Larry T
     
  4. That is correct. Take a good look at the throttle linkage flange where the cable attaches to, because it's totally unique to the 660 carb. Check the squirter, also. It should be placed in the center of the body and have 4 outlets. The linkage should also move all of the butterflys evenly, unlike the progressive linkage that the other Holleys have.

    On a tunnel ram, they kick ass.
     
  5. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 25,862

    Deuces

    Ditto on the R-4224's... Someone milled out the choke horn to make those flow more... Also check out the 50cc accel pump on those instead of the standard 30cc pump.. The pump shooters up top should be stamped number 26.. Throttle bore diameters are 1-11/16.. Those are some kick ass carbs on there.. Word of Caution... Do not run those on the street!!! They're made for balls out racing!....
     
  6. I got a pair of 450s in the garage that don't have center squirters and the linkage is identical to the 660. Holley made several different carbs with locked secundaries.

    I'm not grasping the secundary metering blocks at least they appear to hace secundary metering blocks in the pics to me. I have 3 660 center squirts in the garage also none of them have secondary metering blocks all 3 have metering plates like an 1850.
     
  7. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 25,862

    Deuces

    My 850 R-4223 Center Squirter came with 2 metering blocks....
     

  8. So yours is an 850 and not a 660 right?

    We used to put 850 bases on 660s. I just don't recall seeing a 660 with secondary metering blocks. That's why I asked. I havent seen every 660 ever built.
     
  9. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 25,862

    Deuces

    That's right! 'Beaner.... Pretty rare carb... I can't find a picture of it anywhere.. :( But here's a pic of the 660 from Holley.com......
     

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  10. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 25,862

    Deuces

    Judging by the pic you posted, someone did a nice job of knocking out the fuel inlet blockoff plug on the secondary fuel bowls and tapped the 9/16-24 threads for the inlet fittings and then blocked off the transfer tube hole with 1/8-27 pipe plugs.... Very cool!! :)
     
  11. rustynuts
    Joined: Dec 22, 2004
    Posts: 12

    rustynuts
    Member

    thanks for all the info. I will try and take some closeup pics tonight.
    Now the problem will be that this is a street car ...so I guess I should sell or trade these carbs. Or should I try them first?
     
  12. rustynuts
    Joined: Dec 22, 2004
    Posts: 12

    rustynuts
    Member

    here's my 57 poncho that I want to put the tunnel ram on.
     

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  13. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 25,862

    Deuces

    Sell them or..... Bolt those on at the dragstrip! :D I might be interested in them if you decide to sell...
     
  14. If your engine takes a deep breath IE healthy cam and good heads, then just run 'em. It doesn't cost a dime to find out if they are too much carb or not.

    I plan on running a pair of tricked out 660s on an Olds mill I have but I also will have a pair of 600 vac secondaries in the wings if the 660s prove to be too much for cruising I'll just keep them for go fast sundays and drive the 600s.

    If I was running a mild small block I would probably lean towards a pair of 450s and if it was a moderately healthy small block I would bolt a pair of 600s on it. Never the less it won't cost you a dime to try the big carbs and see how it acts.
     
  15. rustynuts
    Joined: Dec 22, 2004
    Posts: 12

    rustynuts
    Member

    send me an PM offer on the carbs and log if you want!
     
  16. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,339

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    Have an 830 with the same linkage on it. LOTS of racers converted 660s to secondary metering blocks. I think Holley used to actually sell a kit. I will see if I can dig up an old part #, just for laughs.
     
  17. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,339

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    I used to do this all the time. Real easy, and you dont have mess with the annoying little o-rings anymore.
     
  18. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 25,862

    Deuces

    Yep! It helps if you have a bridgeport handy when doing that modification....
     
  19. gasserjohn
    Joined: Nov 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,218

    gasserjohn
    Member

    instruction sheet........
     

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  20. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,339

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    I usually avoid carb and cam threads like the plague, but here goes.
    If you want to successfully run these carbs on the street, leaning the ifr's is a MUST. Note the last paragraph in the Edelbrock instructions. In this particular case, your carbs may already have the ifr's bushed. When you put this system on, if you have the mixture screws turned all the way in and it is still idling pig rich, they HAVENT been done. This doesnt just apply to 660's, anytime you have a carb/carbs, and it wont respond to the mixture screws, you can pretty well figure the ifr's are too large, assuming that everything else is correct, functioning, correct power valve, no vacuum leaks, right timing, ect. You also should be aware, turning the idle mixture screws, does not, contrary to popular mythology, change the richness of the idle per-se, it actually increases or decreases the amount of a/f emulsion entering the venturi at idle. The actual a/f ratio at idle is governed by the size of the idle air bleed, and the afr. You dont need the bushings, the bent wires will work just fine. If you do the wires and it is still rich, keep trying larger diameter wire until it is responsive to the idle screws. I have also used the same mod on dominators and 950hp's. Alot of guys will tell you to just change the idle air bleeds, I dont like this method, as when you change the air bleeds, you are altering more than the a/f ratio of the idle curcuit, you are starting to mess with its sensitivity & timing, and its easy to create a "hole" in the fuel curve where it transitions onto the mains. I will also mention, just for your knowledge, that intake didnt come out till the mid-late seventies.
     
  21. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,339

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    I'll also mention, the Pro-Ram II has larger, shorter runners than the TR1Y or TR1YX. Thats a lot of intake for a 327 street motor. The TR1Y/YX was actually designed for 288 inch mp motors, whereas the Pro-Ram II was designed for 331 inch Pro Stock motors in the 70s. The TR1Y will probably make more average power, and CONSIDERABLY more peak torque on a typical 6500-7000 rpm 327 than the Pro-Ram II, which was designed to make peak power in the 9-9500 rpm range on a 331" Pro-Stck motor. The intake that Edelbrock currently markets as their "street tunnel ram" is actually a TR1YX with a vacuum port added to the plenum.
    Realistically, the carbs are more "streetable" than the intake.
     
  22. rustynuts
    Joined: Dec 22, 2004
    Posts: 12

    rustynuts
    Member

    interesting ...my 327 just happens to be bored 30 over and has 11:1 speedpro pistons. My 57 poncho is a Laurentian and came from western Canada. Back in the 70's it was brought here. I have tried to keep it as a car would have been built in the 70's so the intake fits the time frame as does the engine.
    Thanks falcongeorge for chiming in here even you try to avoid these topics. I for one appreciate your input.
     
  23. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,423

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    I'm running the Holley version of that intake, that has a little smaller runner. Similar in design, and running twin 450's on mine. I'm still working out bugs for the street, and I think I need to change out the 30cc accel. pumps for the 50cc so it will get past the off idle stumble.

    [​IMG]
     
  24. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,339

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    Dont get me wrong, if the carbs and ignition are right, the Pro-Ram II will start, run, idle, ect. But on a 7000 rpm 327, it will be down on average power/torque across the board compared to a TR1YX or Wieand. If you were running a big (285+@050) roller, 13/1 and some really SERIOUS race heads, and spinning the motor to 9000 rpm, it would out-perform the TR1YX or the Wieand, but I dont think thats the situatuion here.
     
  25. 65 Imp SS
    Joined: Aug 12, 2010
    Posts: 36

    65 Imp SS
    Member
    from central mn

    Have you done any accelerator pump tuning ? here is a vid on it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-Nx5HEzvlY if you already have then I would move up to the 50cc pump
     
  26. colorado51
    Joined: Feb 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,576

    colorado51
    Member

    Exactly! I was going to comment on the intake also. The Pro Ram II is a serious intake for high RPM. Probably not great for street.

    I have one with 2 Holley 450's that came off of a race motor.
     

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