Does anyone here have some tips, pictures, or a write up on doing frame extensions? I did a search but didnt find much. I found a frame that I want to use under my 50 Chevy but I need to extend it a few inches. I have the numbers written down somewhere, but Im pretty sure its only 4", less then 6" for sure. I remember seeing frame extensions in some builds here before, but I cant remember whose they were. Thanks in advance!
You mean stretching a frame, pretty easy to do, just reinforce the inside splice with another piece of steel that extends beyond the stretch at least 6" to 8"
Where are you wanting to extend it? Are you trying to lengthen the wheel base? Let us see some pictures.
So basicly just weld the extention in, and add another longer piece behind it for strength? Id really like to see some pictures of how others have done it. Yes, trying to lengthen the wheel base. I havent taken a real good look at it yet, but I think somewhere in front of the rear leaf springs is where Id want to cut it. Good idea, but Id rather keep my bed stock.
Do a search on here, there might be a few pics. And try to do the stretch at the straightest possible spot, I'll look for some pics.
The GM Trucks Upfitters manuals have lots of info about stretching and shortening frames. There are two big things to watch out for. First, when welding any but joints, be sure to use runoff tabs at the edges of the flanges. When you end a weld at the edge of a piece of metal, there's an undercut that will become a stress riser and the start of a crack. Use a small s**** of similar thickness metal to allow the weld bead to run past the edge of the flange, then grind it flush later. Second, any reinforcing plates (also known as fish plates) need to have tapered ends. If you just cut them off square, the immediate discontinuity in frame stiffness is another stress riser and crack site. By tapering the ends, you gradually change the stiffness of the rail and thus avoid the stress riser.
Nick, what is the replacement frame ? Some frames are super easy to "strech" because the factory had several wheelbase options. (S10) frames are welded in the middle and all you have to do is slice the weld and then you can slide the two halves back and re-weld.. They slip together with quite a bit of overlap. Dave
Excellent advice, this and learning about Rosette welds or plug welds, to be used in the fabrication your talking about here. This will strengthen the fish plate connection considerably. Please say your doing the welding with 220 volts input.
We strretched our s ten frame 7 inches to mount a 41 chevy truck.. Used 80 dodge frame rails for the donor frame pieces, fit was puurrfect. the mopar rails fit over the chevy frame just like a glove, my son did all the welding.
You prolly verified this already, but you want to be sure the new frame has proper track width front and rear to fit under your fenders without rubbing. AD pickups are too narrow for a lot of modern frames once they have some fancy wheels/tires.
Good info, Ill try and get one of those manuals and do some reading on that. The frame is a 98 Ford Explorer, 2wd, 4 door. The body is still on it so I havent gotten a good look at where the best spot to lengthen it will be. Im ***uming in front of the rear springs will be best because the front half of the frame has a taper like the factory one. My boss has a big Miller welder that Ill be using. Pretty sure its 220V.
Yes, I did a lot of research before deciding on this particular frame. I chose it because it has very similar dimensions to the stock frame, with a lot of modern upgrades.
Good deal on the big MILLER Nick, is the next project a small block in place of the back seat in the Corvair? Poor little turds in thier Porsche's wont know what hit them.
Sadly, the Corvair and Mustang will be for sale this spring. Too many projects, gotta downsize! I have to finish up my OT daily driver '88 Chevy, did a frame swap on that last summer, and just need some small things to finish it up. That would probably be the way to go. For some reason these Explorer frames are made from unobtainium lately. If I can fine another one before I go to cut, Id rather do that.
Here's the Ch***is "Best Practices" manual from GM: http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/REV_FF-3_BstPrac_Chss_Indx_0810.pdf The website is here and has a lot of good info: http://www.gmupfitter.com/index.html
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