Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator

Use it all the time. I buy it in quarts and spray cans from Eastwood. Clean off the loose crap with a wire brush and wipe off any oil or grease them brush it on. You can paint over it with all known finishes.

Caution, it hardens when in contact with moisture in the air so once you open a can it starts to harden. I try to flood the open can with Argon from my TIG welder then hammer the lid back on. It seems to slow down the process.

Use disposable brushes and latex gloves to save trying to clean up after.

I've been told that it the same stuff as POR 15.

 

Used it on the frame of my 32, worked great. Like Aaggie said it hardens quick, I used cheap brushes and gloves too. It covers pretty well. I used the qt not the spray. Good luck

 

I prefer POR-15, but I use the Eastwood stuff in the aerosol when I can't get a brush in.

 

Does it flow on smooth like Por-15.....

I have some parts that that I used Eastwood encap and have been in the weather for 5 years now and they are still looking as good as the day applied. Por-15 lays down the best IMO, to get eastwood encap to flow a good brush is a must and paint quickly it reacts to the air faster (paint brush starts drying). Neither sands very easily.

 

Hey Jeff how are you man.
POR-15 is iso based. Nasty stuff to breath.
I would use good old Rustoleium semi gloss or pro grade. This stuff is much safer
with just a carbon filter mask.
Iso-based paints require a clean air supplied pressure mask per MSDS.
Be safe brother, Mike

 

I have only used POR-15 and been very happy with it . Goes on very easily and covers very well . I used the throw away foam brushes and works great . A friend used it on his Zephyr and loves what it did . Been on there for years and his restoration turned out perfect ! He has also won many trophy's with that car also . Like the others said , that stuff smells really bad ! I used ours outside during the summer and dries good that way . If you have to use indoors , make sure you have very good ventilation or an air supply to breath from . As for trying a different brand well , I am just one of those guys that always looks at it this way , if something works great and does what it says it will do , then I stick with it ! I have been happy with POR-15 and will keep using it ! It works and that's the bottom line ! I would hate to use another brand and after all that work it didn't work like POR-15 does , then I really didn't save any money at all ! I guess I should give another brand a try if it's just as good and can save me some money !

Retro Jim

 

I've used both POR and Eastwood. I did not like the POR for two reasons. First, nothing will stick to it unless you scuff it really good. Second, you cannot get it off of your skin unless you wear it off.

The Eastwood Rust Encapsulator cleans up with lacquer thinner and it flows out nice and smooth. You may have to add lacquer thinner to it to thin it down a little but that's ok. Undercoat seems to stick to it better. I use Wurth's SKS.

I'm not saying that POR products aren't good, I just didn't like them as well. I also didn't like the fact that they had isocyanates in them.

 

I've used both POR and Encapsulator on several projects.
1. Encapsulator goes over rusty parts and stays, can paint over fairly easy. Can open and shut the can several times until empty and won't stick to its self.
2. POR goes over rusty parts and stays, if you spray a thin coat of primer over POR while still wet, you can paint over easy. (thin coat: like guide coat on primer before blocking) If you get paint on lip of can and close lid---GOOD LUCK opening it again.
3. If you grind off POR and try to weld something to the metal, it is weird, does something to the metal.

Just my experience.

 

I've heard pretty good stuff about Rust Bullet, I haven't personally tried it though. The nice thing is it doesn't have all the prep steps of POR-15.

http://www.rustbullet.com/

 

I wouldn't use the stuff on yard art ... but if your the kinda guy that paints over dirt its perfect .

 

I've used them both POR & Eastwood's stuff several times (I restore cars for a living) , and I agree with Rockable's info . I also prefer Eastwood's rust encapulator if I have my choice .

 

I think he's talking about ANY rust encapsulator. I take it that he's the kind of guy that sandblasts everything and/or cuts it out and replaces it with new metal. I'm mostly on his side. I do think putting this stuff on sandblasted metal is a great way to protect it and keep the rust from coming back, however.

 

I've used the rattle-can Eastwood encapsulator with good results. I had a little surface rust on the Merc's floorpans from mouse piss (sonsabitches!), nothing major. this was 5 years ago, I had the carpet outta there earlier this spring with my re-wiring job and it's been holding up well.

 

Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator if you are going to paint over it. It and POR 15 cure work in different ways. If you are using it on something that will be out in the weather like a trailer or even a frame under a car or suspension parts the POR 15 is a good choice if only because it is one step.... Just make sure you use it over rust and not bare metal. It will NOT stick to clean or ground metal.

Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator is what I use if I am painting over it. You can put anything over it if you let it dry over night. Any primer or paint or sealer or even filler.......... anything. It just needs paint over it. I have examples and samples of several of these products on the metal critters out in my lot. Some for as long as they have been around. Pretty good long time tests. Also have the Eastwood Encapsulattor under places on a couple pretty high end lacquer jobs that have been out and about for at least 15 years. I also have never had a problem with the Eastwood not sticking on bare metal. It doesn't like grease or oil but that goes unsaid for any paint.

I'm starting on my 54 Convertible frame and it will get Eastwood's Encapsulator and then paint. It's been sandblasted but has been sitting awhile.

What a long answer to a short question.

 

Have not used myself, but have a friend that has.
For my money, leave those type of products to backyard projects.
If your project is worth doing, it is worth doing right.
Take it to bare metal and finish properly.
Yard art=ok
selling the project to someone you will never see again=ok
Want to sleep at night and be proud of your workmanship=not ok

 

I've used Por-15 several times with poor results each time. My father has had good results with the Eastwood stuff but his project hasn't spent alot of time on the road. When I did the frame on my truck last year i used Kbs Coating products with GREAT results. After my frame was painted I had to weld a bed mount on. I Ground the coating of in just the area where I needed to weld. I layed down several heavy beads without the coating, that was maybe a 1/2" away, being affected. It sprayed on & looks great, even after several thousand miles.

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/

 

Jeff, you mean they have rust where your from????

 

Why are these two products (POR and estwoods rust encapsulator) always mentioned and not good ole rustoleum? RL

 

Anyone used Rust Bullet?

Untame

 

I've used the Eastwood stuff, and so far, so good. Of course, I've cleaned the metal with a wire brush first. I read in other threads that it's pretty durable stuff, that's why I used it.

I doubt I could ever try just laying it on over rust without extensively cleaning first.

 

Im a little confused about not putting it on bare metal. Seems like unless the part you are working on is completly covered with rust then whats the point of using POR or Eastwood encapsulator? If only certain areas have rust do you only POR the rusty areas then paint the rest? If paint dosen't stick to POR well then seems like it might look blotchy unless you can match the finish perfectly.

Thanks for the info. this is great!!! Every time I click the mouse here I learn something new.

 

I've used the POR, and a product called Hammerite. I like the Hammerite for the price. VERY durable and available in brush on or rattle can

anybody put Lizard Skin over any of these products? I'm thinking that's what I want to do on the inside of my '50 Dodge.