i replaced all 4 front wheel cylinders on my 51 plymouth cambridge i replaced one side because it blew and as i tried to bleed it. the pass side blew as well so i replaced those. and after i put everything back together(new) i started to bleed them and one of them blew? its brand new?!?
Yeah i talked to Ole Cylinders the other day , he wanted me to tell you hi. Sorry , i couldnt pass up that old joke ha ha ha .
d'oh! i didnt have the drum on the side that blew. makes a lot of sense now. i cant believe i didnt think of that.
new problem! the brakes were working fine and i did a little driving. after stopping and going a few times the brake pedal got harder to push down and the car felt like the e-brake was pulled(no e-brake) then shortly after that one of my wheel cylinders blew. what now?
Got enough return stroke? Bad master cylinder? BTW...are your drums machined way past the max? Are your shoes all secured correctly? If everthing is assembled and adjusted properly, with the drums on, there's no way for the brake-cylinders to blow.
the brakes worked fine until i started using them more and more. it felt like i was pumping them and they got stiffer and stiffer until it blew out. smoke and everything
Oh...jeez...that sounds like you're building up a lot of pressure and friction. Enough to detach the shoes and allow the cylinders to come apart. Bad master. I think. Or not enough return-stroke. I think.
Smoke??? Fluid had to hit something pretty hot,I dont think it came out of the wheel cylinder. You did get all your wheel bearings etc. back in correctly didnt you?
yeah it seems as if the shoes are constantly braking and with friction comes heat, so i assumed when the wheel cylinder blew it hit the hot drum and caused smoke. yeah everything was put back together correctly.
Sounds like the drums are cut way oversize and letting the shoes expand too far out till cylinder blows out.
Not that it would cause a cylinder to blow but do you have the long shoe (pad)towards the back of the car and the short shoe (pad)to the front? You should have a long pad and a short pad for each wheel unless plymouths are diffrent?
Everything seems fine? It feels like the more I pump the brakes the harder they get till the wheels basically are engaged at all times
Ok fro* the top. 1. Are the brakes adjusted correctly? That car does not have self adjusting brakes. 2. Are all of the return springs in place and installed corrrectly? 3. As noted by others are the dru*s within specs? 4. is the push rod on the *aster cylinder adjusted correctly so that the piston releases all the way after you let off the pedal. This I suspect is your proble* now. If the piston doesn't return all the way in the *aster cylinder the return hole is covered and the fluid will not return to the cylinder properly. You should have a little bit of slack in the pedal before you start feeling the fluid push the wheel cylinder pistons out and push the brake shoes out.
Almost sounds like, from the incorrect nomenclature you've used to describe parts ("wheels basically are engaged at all times", and trying to bleed brakes with the drums somewhere else than installed on the vehicle), that you probably ought to, for your own safety and for the safety of others, find someone close-by with some actual brake system expertise to help you through this obviously overwhelming repair project. This all sounds like it's a little beyond your experience and comfort level. I'm really trying to be as nice as I can about this suggestion. DD
May seem a stupid question; but do you have a disc brake master instead of drums? I ask because drum brakes need 6-900, where as discs use over 1200 in line pressure; maybe you are slamming the pedal and the wheel cylinder is getting 1200 instead of 6 or seven and your popping or flipping the plungers? Pork
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