I am putting a t5 with a 302 in my 65 f100, I am needing to convert my clutch from the old z bar style clutch to the cable clutch the T5 has. Does anyone have any suggestions on the best way to do this? I see conversion kits for 65-73 mustangs, but cannot find any kits or any info on converting a f100. thanks
I've done a few T5 conversions and the best way is go with a hydraulic kit. I made a bracket to mount on the bell housing for the slave & put a plate on the firewall cut out for the master.
yeah hydraulic would be the easiest way unless you happened to have the rest of the clutch and cable out of the other car.....
Go take the quadrant and cable out of a Mustang and replicate the install in your truck. If the cable is too short, have it pulling on a connecting roid to make up the difference.
X2 on using the pieces from a mustang etc. you'll have to weld the "quadrant" style arm to the stock pedal assy. it will keep the auto adjust feature intact. you'll also need to slightly trim the "y" brace behind the cluster. ez pz. works good. cheap.
A good friend (Jason Holland, jho on here) helped me swap a 302/T5 into my old '62 Galaxie. He came up with some good ideas to adapt a Fox-body Mustang clutch quadrant to the Galaxie pedal assembly/support. These photos show the combination of the two. I drilled a hole in the firewall and also used an aftermarket clutch cable adjuster (firewall mounted) that they sell for the Mustangs. Malcolm **edit** ...looks like the two guys above this post also have the same advice
Be forewarned that if you run a cable and use a quadrant, it is highly likely you will break a cable. Most common break is the end fraying and breaking at the quadrant. Carry a spare (or two) Also keep the cable far away from the exhaust, when you think it's far enough move it farther.
Back in the seventy s I put a small block Chevy into a forty Ford woody. Every thing was done except for the clutch linkage and we hoping to take the car on a road trip to Oregon. At the last minute I used the e brake cable for clutch linkage hoping it might work for the trip from LA to Oregon. Fifteen years and 100,000 thousand miles later it was still working fine aand never gave me one problem.
I went through this on my 56 Mainline, I'll see if I can find a pic... I found that the Fox Mustang clutch pedal shaft was the same size and length as the stock clutch shaft, so I just swapped them. I had to weld a piece onto the 56 pedal to spin the shaft, but it wasn't too bad. Just add a firewall adjuster and your good to go...
I helped a on this same Motor/Trans swap going into a 68 F-100 we went to the junkyard and pulled the petals from a 92 F-250 with a 300-6/4speed used the clutch and brake stuff on the 68 the Clutch master cylinder mounted very clean on the fire wall and the slave to the T-5 bell with just some spacers to line it up. Then welded a threaded rod to the slave rod and drilled the t-5 fork a little bigger than the cable hole and to have some adjustment and so the rod would not fall out. It worked great for less than 20 bucks total cost of parts. The other good thing is you can get either cylinder or the clutch line from any parts house. Wish I had taken pics now!
I have a 302 and T5 in my 61 falcon. i used the clutch and brake pedal assembly from an 89 mustang. i bought the aftermarket quadrant and adjustable cable. made the pedal assembly fit the car and have been running that setup for about 10 years without any trouble. i even used the mustang brake pedal switch for my brake lights.
I agree with keeping the cable away from your exhaust, but cable breakage is not all that common unless there is something that would fray it, -- or incorrect installation. There are millions of Mustangs running around out there with trouble free cable operated clutches.
IF you have the bellhousing and fork that were designed for a cable, you can run a cable without all that quadrant stuff. I got a cable from modern Driveline that was designed for an Early Falcon conversion. One end of the cable mounts to the trans like stock, the other end has a threaded adjuster that sandwiches the firewall and the the cable runs to the stock pedal with a clevis on the end. Drill a hole through the pedal and you're done. Works great.