Seems like deja vu all over again...I just watched a buddy build a 40 PU over the past few years. He just got it done for the GNRS. THey sure do clean up nice...keep up the fine work!
incredible work Tyler I am definatly following this post. you have done lots of work so far and still got a little left. hope you have her ready for the round up. cant wait to see in person. more pictures are always appreciated, keeps me motivated to work on my junk.
Hey thanks Hbrown! If you could please send me another pic of your fenders where the patch will go. I need to see if the area that bolts up to the bed (not the running board area) is the same or different than the 40s. If they are the same then I have the outer patches made. If not I'll need to make that area. Tyler
Finally got off my ass so time for an update. I finalized using a 327 and T5. Using anything other than stock meant that I need to open up the frame for room. I'm going to try my best to not split the bones but we'll see when I get a little further along with mock up. Here's what I'm doing to the frame. I started by bracing the frame up so that it wouldn't twist. Then I removed the center X member and notched the remaining rails so I could rest new pieces in. I have another 35-40 frame X section laying around so I cut off a couple of pieces to use as my new rails. It's the best way to go as the frame will still look stock and the metal is the same gauge.
nice work and real inspiration. now i have to get going on the 41 since i've got this for a real good reference. thanks for sharing this build
I inserted the new pieces into the old and lined it up to make it look right and marked them for trimming. You can see what the outcome is going to be... After the rails were welded I trimmed the smaller braces to fit and welded them in to.
Having a heavy gauge plate laying around is always nice so into the project it goes. It was cut to fit and bolted in so that the trans can come out the bottom like all the kits out there, not reinventing the wheel here... Now to mock the engine and make a top plate.
Hey Smitty, that's what the HAMB is all about. Happy to share and lord knows how much info I've gained off here.
Update: My block is done and ready to be picked up so I'm back on it. I had the guys over at Day Custom Engine in Richardson Tx do the machining (that's Revhead here on the HAMB). Its going to be a 327 in a 283 package. Here's what I've done in the meantime... I used a small block laying around and bolted the t5 to it for placement. I noticed that I won't need to split the bones to run this set up, which makes me happy. The engine will come forward a couple more inches and I plan on using a mustang radiator; I should have plenty of room to keep me out of the firewall. The plan now is to build the whole front end around the motor while its still on this brace so I can check for clearance. I made a couple of patches for each cab side and noticed that this cab must have been a commerical or express cab as it has a different bolt pattern than the 1/2 ton.
So the guys body worked the front clip and put the parts in slicksand which is a high build primer (like sprayable bondo). Before going to far I worked the inner fenders, made the mounting holes on the cowl sides of the cab, and mocked the front clip. I really love setting the gaps and as most people know the 40's take some patience, but its worth it.
Seeing how I'm going to use a different radiator I needed a way to make the front clip adjustable and stout, so I made some brackets that will bolt on. I picked this location because the inner fender is already braced for the front wishbone mounting point which will make it able to carry the load. I made the brackets out of flat stock we had laying around and after bolting them on you can move the whole truck around by pushing on the fenders. I can now move the clip up and down and shim it side to side.
Here she is with no hood on ready for the engine to be tweaked to its final resting spot. In the next few days I plan on having the engine mounts welded in and the radiator in place. I'm pretty sure I'll need to add a few leaves back to the pack to bring it up a little. Since I raised the crossmember up I can have the all leaves in with full suspension travel and still be lower than stock.
What a beautiful build!... For parts like the grille, you need to check out Bob Drake reproductions www.bobdrake.com IIRC Here's a picture of my 40:
Thanks 1great40! Nice looking truck you have there. I have checked with Bob Drake online and it shows that they have the grill available as a kit for $770. A little much for me now considering that I have the outer two pieces in great shape rechromed. I will call them and see if I can get the center piece separately.
Yea! Look what just showed up. It'll be fun going through the carbs and getting it tuned. Bought here from another HAMBer.
I am at the spring Carlisle show this week, been checking with various vendors about your grille center. It turns out that most only sell the kit but www.midwestearlyford.com has the center listed separately in chrome for $250 Hope this helps, it's exciting to see your truck coming along so quickly especially since I have been fiddling around with mine for 12 years!
Glad to see your moving along so well. I put a full day in on mine and need to keep motivated. Mine was to be done by March 1 but my painter went to work for Charlie Hutton and I still need the bed painted. Bumed me out but moving on to finish up the interior now.
Well that sucks to loose someone as important as your painter/body guy during your build, but at the same time that's great he landed a job at a well known shop. I've been watching your build and it seems everythings going well. Keep up the good work.
I then welded in the plates. I didn't weld in were the steering box mount is at as I am using a 39 box on a 36 frame and will need to change the mount. I was about to put the block back in to weld in the frame side of the mounts when I decided it would be better to address the wishbone mount first. I torched the original X-member apart to get the bottom plate out. Since I didn't need to split the bones I'm going to use this plate to reinforce the new center section and retain the wishbone ball socket. Just for reference as it will weld underneath the blue plate.
So I welded in the wishbone ball socket to the new center member. In a duh moment I realized that if the bones are not split I'll have to take the trans out from the top, that is unless I take the whole drive train out. I put the motor mounts on and the water pump and hoisted away... I am putting the block a little further forward than some so that my exhaust will clear the steering box. There is plenty of room for a mustang radiator and a 2" fan spacer up front. In the pic there is no spacer but you can get the idea on space. The mustang radiator looks ugly poking up there in the front so I may go with a walker as long as I can get it as close to the grill as this one is.
I have an 1/2" from the pan to the spring bolts. The motor is centered and the drivers exhaust will route between the motor mount and the steering box. In this pick you can see the beginnings of the mounts. Here's the room to firewall.. The T5's mount is right over the bones so I'll need to make a plate and cushion it on the sides of the center section rather than directly under the trans. For shits and giggles I put the 3x2 set up on the block to get a feel for how things will look. So here's how she sits. What do you guys think?
I like your engine support system and the way you made it adjustable for height. Solid enough to support the weight until the motor mounts are designed and installed.
Hey Mjs I saw this type of stand elsewhere here on the HAMB and decided to try it. It works great until you need to install the water pump and check for front clearance, at that point its nill.
The Jalopy Journal
