I make all of my own aluminum parts, since I work as a machinist, and I was looking for suggestions as to protecting them from corrosion, preferably something that doesn't require constant maintenance. any spray bomb clear coats that don't yellow? or something I can use to clean and protect them from time to time, I have some intricate linkages and so on for my carbs, and I don't want to have to be polishing them
Get your parts anodized. Its the best thing you can do in the long term for your parts to protect them.
As far as clearcoats I've had good luck with Diamondclear from Eastwood. I did an aluminum intake about 7 years ago and it hasn't discolored or had gas eat it.
POR-15 has a clear. It is two part, and can be brushed on. Flows out NICE. I used it on all my stuff, even the valve covers after I polished them
I'm glad this question was asked, I have been wondering about this myself too. That Zoop's is pricey! the lemon pledge has me curious, I think i may give it a try on something small. POR-15 miller suggested is 37 give or take for a pint with hardner. if the pledge doesn't do it for me i'm going to try it. thanks for post this...
This stuff works great: http://www.spraymax.de/index.php?id=361&L=1 Here's a source: http://www.eastwood.com/spray-max-rapid-cut-in-spot-clearcoat-aerosol.htmlhttp://www.spraymax.de/index.php?id=361&L=1
What about that silicone spray Harley guys use on their bikes? Perhaps that is only good on chrome???
Zoop Seal was a GREAT product. Didn't yellow or cause a murky or cloudy finish like clears do. Unfortunately they were bought out and are out of business. This http://www.shineseal.com/ is supposed to be the same product under a new ownership from what I am told. Summit still has original Zoops product in stock as well.
a ceramic clear coat from russ meeks and finishline coatings. Resistant to gas and oil, brake fluid. Its amazing doesnt yellow. if youre intersted call 503 659 4278
move. No problems here in the dry southwest. Anodizing is the best way to stop corrosion on aluminum.
I've used clear powdercoat several times. never again. the last peices i buffed out, I buff to a higher sheen, and don't put any thing on them. they seem to darken a little, for 2 years now they look better than any sealer would
Go to a Good Hobby Shop. Buy clear coat finish that's also fuel proof after 24 hours. Hasn't yellowed after 11 years. Works GREAT
What sort of temperature range will your product handle? I'm still looking for the appropriate solution for protecting clean and/or polished aluminum intake manifolds from the elements. Maybe I would polish more aluminum engine parts if I can come up with a solution to keep them clean and protected.
move. Seriously....I bet you never had this problem in Vegas I had polished aluminum air cleaners on my 55 for two years, they poked thru the hole in the hood, they looked great. I went to LA for three days, and they turned white.
I had a wallet full of cash, a long secretarial type that poked out of my back pocket, it felt great. I went to Las Vegas, and went through it like **** thru a goose.
Haha! Yep! Everything that was nice clean raw steel in Vegas turned that nice redish-brown color within a few days of moving it down here. GAH!
My brother clear powder coated his halibrand. Went out to the garage one frozen morning, and the thing had spiderwebed. I use WD-40, and re-polish as needed. May not be the best, but it hasn't screwed me yet.
I just spoke with the chemist here. He said there should be no problem using the Power Seal on an intake manifold.
thanks guys, this is for my off topic project, I have untold hours in hundreds of individual pieces, and this info will help me to protect them