I am looking at putting a flat head V8 into a Model A frame. Would I need to box the frame for durability or is it not going to have enough power to really tweak the frame? Flat heads have a lot less power than Chevy 350's, but I want to be sure my project doesn't end up looking like spiral pasta. Thanks!
yes, box it - especially in the area of the rear engine / trans mount, and for quite a ways forward and rearward of there. i would say torque has nothing to do with the fact that the model "A" frame side rails aren't deep enough for even the weight of the stock 4 cyl. to be bouncing up and down on it. that's why the `32 was such an improvement. i spent many years restoring a '31 roadster. most of the frames i found were bent or cracked in the area of the rear engine / trans mount. i've seen many restored model "A"s with a big gap at the bottom of the hood where it meets the cowl, because this.
Yep Box the **** out of it. Better to be safe then sorry. Plus if you so it right it looks good aswell.
It sounds like you've answered your own question. You probably don't HAVE to, but do you want to chance it?
That doesn't make any sense. The last thing you want to see on a tradition Model A is boxing plates. No, don't box with a flatty. I never have, and never will on an traditional rod. Although if your crossmember rivets have loosened up some, you may need to take action. Weld your crossmembers in permanently.
It certainly doesnt HAVE to be for the flatty, I did not box mine, and guys have been running them that way forever without issues. But I bet ride and handling would be improved by boxing and adding a decent center crossmember structure compaired to the stock ch***is. Maybe step boxing would be a comprimise if you decide to box it.
Checks and Balances The torque required to twist the frame is just slightly higher than that required to shear the banjo's axle key.
better safe than sorry, box it! I'm abou tto do the ame thing. I have a flathead V8 thats going in a model A. I'm boxing mine.....
Hey check with wethebmx here on the H.A.M.B. he cut me a set of box plates for my A they were a perfect fit .....and yes I would box it ...
If you ever get the get the chance to twist on a 32 frame rail with the front cross member removed it is FAR more flexible than an A. This is a factory V8 car. I think most people boxing AV8 frames are only succeeding at making the frame ugly, especially when boxing the front frame horns...
I boxed my frame with a flathead & closed driveline because it wasn't that good of a frame and I'm glad I did, there's a lot of torque around the steering box area, it would be easy for it to crack there. That's a disaster waiting to happen!
dont see the point in boxing the front part only, but if you have the skills to weld in the plates I would defineatly go for a "K" member over the stock centre crosmember or a 32 / Tardel copy to go with the stock centre crossmember.This is a 34 trimmed to fit
I say box it if the frame has had rust in the rear eng. mount area.I boxed from front cross member to the center cross member and did a k-frame behind the center cross member.Stiffened things up a lot and I also have piece of mind Knowing it is stronger.Pete.
I personally would not box the frame with a flatty motor in it. I would just make sure you have a good center cross member such as a 33-34 x member or a 32 k member, those will stiffen it up nicely. My two cents on the boxing situation is if you are going to box it, box the whole thing. If you partially box your frame you have now placed all the stress at the end of your boxing plates which could result in excessive stress on the unboxed frame.
Friend of mine runs an AV8 roadster unboxed, driven hard,raced and some hard off road driving too, no issues at all. I bought my AV8 coupe which someone had boxed and when we put the ch***is on the table it was twisted, probably due to someone boxing the rails and not knowing what they were doing. I wouldn't worry about boxing it but if you do keep an eye on it.
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