Starting a new project for a owner of a tire shop here. Completely stock 51 Fleetline had straight 6 in it with 3 on the tree. Future plans are a camaro clip but trying to retain a stock frame look as much as possible, No ugly welds or slice spots all internally spliced and over laid. Then a 72 nova rear end to complete it for now. Here are just a few pics to get this started!
....you'd best use an early 67-9 Camaro clip or an early68-74 Nova clip; later ones are too wide.Here's a 49 I clipped using a 72 Nova, worked great.
Short Update.... got the car cleaned up as good as we could and started measuring and unbolting. Got the new rear axle under there but will upgrade to better springs and perches later. Just need it under there for the weight right now. The steering column came out with some trouble but in one piece. Front suspension did too. I included a picture of why we are changing the old style set up the bushing on the upper a arm on the driver side had gave way and is not worth putting time into. So far it has been easy, minor bolt breakage for a all original unmolested car. Next we will be cleaning up the new sub frame and start planning!
FWIW, Jag front end is a tad wider than stock, but I can turn lock to lock and am sitting just under 6" at the rocker. (trimmed coils and modified control arms) trans cross member can double as a snow plow. No cutting of frame involved
...here's a shot of how I did the clip on the above 49, lapping the two frames. You should not cut and **** your frame to the clip, unless you fishplate on both sides. These Chevy box frames are not that thick of metal; if you **** em and weld, they may crack next to the welds. ...just my 2 cents, hope it helps. I've done half a dozen of these Chevies like this with good results.
My thinking with that stock Chevy frame is you should avoid cutting it if possible because of it's unique design, but the above mating is a reasonable compromise. The design is basically a stamped "hat" channel welded to a thick bottom piece, which on cars where the frame rots and the top is missing, the bottom piece moves almost like it's a spring. As a result, IMHO the Jag or the Mustang-II kits are the best choice over a clip, however if it's for a customer, or that's all you have handy, I guess you have to do what you have to do. But I've followed up on lots of these builds and unless it sits at stock height when done, the later Camaro is really too wide. Either cut a few inches out of the middle, or you have to spend big $$ for narrower A-arms.
I have a surprise on how im going to clip it but that shall be in the next week when i start that. We picked this option because of the motor mount set up for ease of him installing the motor and such (he does not have a welder and on a limited budget and already set on a small block chevy). And i usually use a mustang 2 setup because of the aftermarket parts but he already got that so we will make it work.
...most likely the stock clip motor mount locations won't work, usually the engine/trans needs to be moved rearward. ...sometimes there are several motor mount holes in the clip, but most I've found aren't far enuf rearward. I usually make a plate that bolts to those factory holes and weld motor mts. further back on those plates, that way it's all bolt-in in case changes are needed later. ...be interesting to see how you plan to do this.
Yea ive been looking and researching on here and using some of my ideas carried over from building promods and bagging various vehicles to give me the best idea. Ive never done this car and clip set up before. i usually go full custom route and start from scratch but i took this challenge so i hope it pays off because hes a good friend and be a good reference to use on this car. I have noticed that the car frame is indeed thinner so im going to do a inner sleeve with s***ch welds and open hole welds along the frame about 2 foot back just for a little security. Call it over kill but i have seen my share of these done wrong or not strong enough and crack. Im not chancing it when i have the know how and tools to do it right the first time.
Not wanting to change your mind but just to give you my 2 cents i installed a Mll front end kit from TCI in a '52 chevy, and after the old front end was unbolted and rolled out and cleaned up the frame it was very easy to install the TCI front clip.. the bottom bolts up just like the stock with only having to weld the upper hats on. The look and the great drive was worth it all... not to mention you keep the front member to bolt the sheet metal back up in the stock place.. We also used the stock steering column to keep the stock look on the inside..
Yea waiting on him to give me ride height and if he wants to bag it. So maybe the 10 bolt i picked up will be on 4 link or ladder bar set up... just waiting around right now but thanks for the opinions and options. As recently said its a budget issue and kind of a challenge for me so im gonna take it head on. I have a feeling i will be making this a complete roller by the end of it. Im putting my work in on trade and have a while to do this in my spare time so its not a rushed job or anything like that. I hope my point of view is different than most because i love mustang II setups but i like the fabricating challenge of this plus a little hint i will be using some water jet pieces to make it even better but to keep it original looking in the end.
Well today mustang 2 was brought up...... Looks like i might convince him into spending some bucks but saving everyone time....
Well here is the rest of the build!!! Couldnt make time to upload these but i hope its worth looking at.
Are you going to install the original strut brace on the lower A-arm since you went with original stamped arms? It's a must or upgrade the lower to a tubular that attaches to the outside of your crossmember Hans
If budget is an issue then a Jag XJ6 is the way to go. Buy a dead one for s**** price, take the front end off, haul it to a s****per with the Chevy front and rearend loaded on your truck too, and sell it for the same s**** price. Very little fab to put one on. (you can also sell the '51 brakes to the backing plate off one of those and net a little more money that way; if the car is a powerglide then the rearend is also sellable; if not, just the drums have a little resale value).
ParkinsonSpeed thanks for posting those pics. I have a 52 Canadian Pontiac which is really a 52 Chev body and frame. I was thinking of doing exactly what you did with the MII front end. I was going to use a Welder Series Xmember with the same stock style control arms from Speedway. Were you going to use the Ford type strut from Speedway or a Heidt style strut? I wonder which would be better? What springs did you use? I was thinking of a 350 Rate Spring for a sbc. I also was thinking about the power rack as I'm an old fart and need the help turning at slow speeds. Do you have any hints or suggestions that may help me along with my 52? Thanks
back before ebay began to **** I parted out a 51 and a 53. got $200.00-$300.00 out of the front suspensions. that's each. with the exception of the spindles I sold each part individually, sold the spindles as a pair. with the m*** exit of buyers and sellers from ebay the prices may be a bit less than in the good old days, but still too much $$ to s**** from my view. there is no part on these cars that should be s****ped without an effort to sell.
Here are a couple pictures i forgot.... Picture of the water jetted strut rod mounts... Picture of the customer submitted front clip that, well was just too wide and i didnt really want to do a hack job on it. And any questions just message me, i dont mind helping anyone with what i already know or atleast give my opinion about it.
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