Sanderson Headers

I have a set of sanderson headers I am installing and have run into a bit of a problem. The collector tubes 3 of them do not offer enough space to install the header bolts with a thin wall socket. My question is what is the best way to flatten the collector tubes a bit without destroying the ceramic coating???? I know I am probably not the first to ask this question, but any help would be great.

 

Has nobody had this issue. I dont' want to use a big hammer if someone has a better idea

 

If the bolt heads are to close try ss allen head bolts, I have used them on other headers. I dont know if I would be beatin on the coating it not that tough....

 

just went thru that this week...headers never fit without bloodshed i used a plastic mallet without chipping the finish a block of hardwood and hammer would work also...

 

Ditto on the allen bolts......You can hold the nuts with a crows foot wrench.Trying to dent the collector will definitely damage the ceramic.

 

ARP has locking header bolts with an allen drive in the center of the head, or even smaller head 12 point drives on regular bolts. I'd go to my local speedshop before I got the hammer out.

 

Are you using those small headed bolts that have a seat under them, made special for headers? If not, that's probably what you need.

 

X2 on the 12 point drives w/ allen hole in the center. knock off version available at autozone (gold cad plated)

 

The best way is to not get them coated until you've installed them, and made all the clearance dimples.

 

What about the Stage 8 locking bolts? I use them on bikes all the time. They make them for car applications. Its got both a hex head and allen and the locking tab. I think Summit carries them.

 

Summit does have them

 

Yes I am using proper header bolts, I never thought of the locking type. I don't know why after all of these years the manufactures would take this into consideration. With all of the cad programs for doing their R&D work.

 

sorry just venting, thanks guys I appreciate the help

 

I was picturing something at the collector end with a clearance issue. Not the flange end. ??

 

You can also use a stud with a nut. This way you can use all of the hole threads if you thread the stud to the bottom of the hole. This is especially a good practice in aluminum as you can hold the stud as you thread on the nut. Then, you are just pulling on the threads verses twisting and pulling.

 

I hear ya bigdaddy,
Looks as though this is my only choice with my new limefires. Ain't no bolt on this planet thats gonna fit past the header pipe into the flange.

 

I think I may look into the stud thing and go buy a quality wrench and chop it so I can get a quarter turn at a time...Arrrrgh lol