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1954 Studebaker build thread.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Nelsen Motorsports, Jan 20, 2010.

  1. Nelsen Motorsports
    Joined: Nov 14, 2009
    Posts: 67

    Nelsen Motorsports
    Member

    Lets start from the beginning in 2005...
    I was eleven years old when we found this. Now I am 15 and have to finish in the next 8 months.
    [​IMG]

    The car has a 1967 Chrysler 383 backed up by a 727 and an 8 and 3/4 rear, a 74' Nova frontend, and the rest of the frame and body from a 54 Studie.

    This was taken Sept. or Oct. 09' but this is what the car basically looks like now.
    [​IMG]
     
  2. pugs
    Joined: Dec 18, 2008
    Posts: 498

    pugs
    Member
    from Hamburg Pa

    looks good lets see more pics
     
  3. 32cruisin
    Joined: Nov 5, 2006
    Posts: 251

    32cruisin
    Member

    I second that.
     
  4. studefreak
    Joined: Mar 16, 2007
    Posts: 187

    studefreak
    Member

    53 and 54 studes are the **** . let see some more pics
     
  5. Yes, I agree
     
  6. flamedabone
    Joined: Aug 3, 2001
    Posts: 5,758

    flamedabone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    In 8 months if you are 16 and that Stude is in the parking lot at school, you will have to beat the chicks off you with a stick.

    Looking good so far, -Abone.
     
  7. jroberts
    Joined: Oct 14, 2008
    Posts: 1,658

    jroberts
    Member

    Finding good steel fenders and hoods for ‘53/’54 coupes is becoming very difficult. When you do find good ones they are usually expensive. That said they are out there. An alternative might be fibergl***. There is some really good quality stuff out there. If there is a choice between race and street thicknesses I would use the street. From what I remember the street stuff is not much heavier in weight, but is thicker and holds up much better.

    The first two links are for fibergl*** body parts including hoods and fenders:

    http://www.the-glas-shop.com/

    http://www.cl***gl***performance.com/53 Studebaker.html

    This link to Cl***ic Enterprises is a source of both steel, and some fibergl***, parts I don’t think they have a lot of outer body parts but stuff like floor pans and that kind of thing.

    http://www.cl***icent.com/coupes_hawks.php

    Here are a couple of forums that might be useful when looking for parts and general info.

    The first here is a site for guys who are into racing Studebakers both Stude powered and non Stude powred. Lots of experience and knowledge available here. Just ask the questions.

    http://www.racingstudebakers.com/stl-web/bulletin/bb/index.php

    This link is to the Studebaker Drivers Club forum. There several folks here that might have steel fenders and hood for you car. Again just ask the question.

    http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/

    N<o>ow that I have written this I noticed your screne name. I believe you already frequent the SDC Forum don't you? If so some of the info. I put here maybe stuff you are already aware of.

    Good luck with your project.
     
  8. speedtool
    Joined: Oct 15, 2005
    Posts: 2,541

    speedtool
    BANNED

  9. stude54ht
    Joined: Dec 30, 2007
    Posts: 974

    stude54ht
    Member
    from Spokane WA

    Looking good! 53 54 C&K Studebakers are the best looking cars ever!
     
  10. Rudebaker
    Joined: Sep 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,598

    Rudebaker
    Member
    from Illinois

    Sorry guys, just don't see what all the fuss is about. They look like 2 row cornpickers to me..... The '55 Stude, now THERE is an automobile!

    Just kidding!!!! I love ALL the Bob Bourke coupes ("Loewy" Coupes my behind!). I own the "ugly younger sister" a '55 C body Commander Regal with the fish mouth so I had to get a jab in. ;):cool:

    Good luck on your search, you could always turn it into a '55.

    Here's a Photoshop of one with the front chrome toned down a few steps......... This is basically how the designer, Bob Bourke, wanted it. His original '55 was an upgrade of the '53-'54 and his home built prototype still exists, it was a good looking car but the execs wanted a new front and lots of chrome.

    [​IMG]
     
    Flipper likes this.
  11. Nelsen Motorsports
    Joined: Nov 14, 2009
    Posts: 67

    Nelsen Motorsports
    Member

    Other pics.

    [​IMG]
    Body off the frame for the first time 2006-Aug. 08 I believe.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Body off the frame for the second time Sept. or Oct. 08 thru Late Spring 09. We bolted the body to beams in the ceiling using wood and the help of a bend pack, it worked great, was safe, and compact, and when we wanted to work on the frame we simply lowered the lift.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2010
  12. Nelsen Motorsports
    Joined: Nov 14, 2009
    Posts: 67

    Nelsen Motorsports
    Member

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVisTraIMoI

    This is the first time starting the 383 in Oct. 09, there are other videos on youtube of THE first time starting the engine, but they aren't as good. I am the the kid who is at first on the near side and my dad is the one who started the engine. It took us hours to figure out the wiring because this is the first mopar anyone in my family has ever worked on other than a slant six back in da day.

    Other videos:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WHF-suZ1Dow&NR=1
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w-ud66jf4Uc&feature=channel
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PD_KvcCav7A&feature=channel
     
  13. edweird
    Joined: Jan 4, 2009
    Posts: 3,186

    edweird
    Member

    this seen looks familiar.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Nelsen Motorsports
    Joined: Nov 14, 2009
    Posts: 67

    Nelsen Motorsports
    Member

    Also forgot the interior which is right now in my neighbor's ba*****t.
    [​IMG]
    Crushed red velvet, the whole interior was on craigslist and we scooped up a deal.
     
  15. Nelsen Motorsports
    Joined: Nov 14, 2009
    Posts: 67

    Nelsen Motorsports
    Member

    Here is some history behind the car. It was made in Southbend 1954, I believe it was red with a white or black roof or solid red. It was a Champion (six cylinder), and was a basic low option car for what I could tell. The car was also built out out a few parts cars; one was a mint green 53 and the other was a 54 or 54 (past owner told me this). The past owner also told me that the car was a racecar at one point, and I also know this because the hood has patches where hood pins might have once been. In 2005 when we got the car all we thought at first was that we would need to do was put together the engine and do bodywork, we were wrong. The car had some damage, it was sandblasted once 20 or so years ago and prepared for paint by the previous owner, but was stored in a wet garage by a swamp where pinhole rust:mad::( formed on the doors, rear fenders, and front fenders (I still need fenders and doors). When I went to work on the floor I found some hidden sin. From the front of the firewall to the B pillar area the floor was cheese that had a piece of metal poorly fibergl***ed in:mad::eek:. Fortunately we had a solid trunk and rear floors, and we were going to move the heavy, behemouth MoPar 383 back 2" and down 1". So we tacked in a flat firewall (beautiful). The bends in the floor were made by backing the minivan onto the steel and bending it by hand:). The transmissin tunnel is from a 1970 firebird auto car. Now back to the frame, to our suprise we learned that even though the stack frame was boxed, it could not support a 383, so we did a real fine bracing job. Now the previous owner had a Nova subframe installed 20 or so years ago and installed brand new coil shocks. I spent the most of the summer of 2009 getting the factory undercoating off of the car. To my suprise it was flammable, and the only thing that worked was heavy duty paint remover. We have two different bolt patterns:confused:, the front is GM, and the rear is MoPar. We are currently trying to find CHEAP solutions for this. We needed fenderwell headers to clear. And we are using fibergl*** leaf springs:cool:. The entire underneath and inside of the car is painted with a black, two-part, brush-on epoxy paint. The Summer of 2010 will be a garage marathon. I will not do much body work, but he is what's left. The braking system, a wiring harness, everything electrical, a radiator, transmission cooler, rubber and door gl***, bolting on the trim, intalling the interior and rebuilding the dash. This car should never exceed 10,000 for what I know, but I will always have work to do on it. I will try to keep updates, so please toon in every once and a while.
     
  16. Nelsen Motorsports
    Joined: Nov 14, 2009
    Posts: 67

    Nelsen Motorsports
    Member

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