i want to know if or how to attach the cans on i belive they are pop metal so can i weld ,braze, lead ,or gl*** them in place to loose the seam already mounted the lights from inside the fender it on a 55 fairlane
I deciphered SOME of that..... May have ta GL*** em to your fender as non compatable alloy is the problem......rough up the "crack"[thats the crack on your car] with a 24 grit grinding disc then use a stranded gl*** product as the first application then finish with bondooou.......
Fibergl*** cloth,or mat,and resin may be your solution. I used this stuff to mold a pot metal licence plate frame to the decklid on my '50. Finish with 'Bondo-gl***" to feather it in and Bone- Appi***e' Sparkles Au rivior(frenching terms)
Make sheet metal copies of them and weld them on. Anything else will eventually crack, the more expensive the paint you put on it the sooner it will crack too. It just works that way
Has anybody ever used nothing but glue and body plastic? They use glue to hold the space shuttle tiles on,so is there some reason why glue wouldn't work for something like this? It would sure be easier.
The factory usually sticks a cardboard gasket between the pot metal part and steel fender because the different materials expand and contract at different rates and different amounts. you add the glue and it will expand and contract at yet a third rate, causing whatever bondo you cover the seam with to crack and take the paint with it. This guy lives in Pomona, Ca where the temperature can range from near freezing to 110º in the same week! And we know what happens when space shuttle tiles fall off...
What about those "amazing" brazing rods you see advertised that you use with a propane torch and can weld any metals?
try using 3M panel bond..we use it to attach roofs,quarters,and other body panels..3M claims it is as strong as a plug weld..????not to sure about that but it is strong and works good..gl*** on metal never works...heat and cold are the enemy..also there is a product called allmetal ..mixes like bondo and sands like metal..hard as ****..
ifyou are doing a flat black car that will never be painted a color or finished just bondo up the seam and enjoy. if you are trying to do some thing decent it is a lot of work to make the ring out of sheet metal and weld to the fender. look at it this way: all metals and plastics expand and contract at diffrent temps put 2 diffrent types together and it is bound to crack. You can get fancy and lead the seam but that will also only last a short time. if you have any plan on keeping a car more then 4 years with out having to redo all the hard work you did take the time and make it the right way using all metal and litle filler no brazing or pot metal every panel you weld in is coated on the back side with weld threw primer, sand blast or acid dip any part that has any kind of rust.
you didnt see the news about those fallin off and the shuttle burning up on re-entry? try a bit of JB Weld. good stuff and expands/contracts just about as well as the surrounding steel. also making new doors out of sheet steel and welding those on is a better idea.
Before gl***ing mine I made up a steel ring and welded it to the end of the fender then placed the rim over it settling it down on a bed of chopped gl*** to fill any gaps. Next while the gl*** was still curing I quickly drilled a ring of holes around and riveted through (steel rivets). Once this had all set I filled the gap with more chopped gl*** and finished with regular filler. Been on there since 1992 and about 40k miles, not cracked yet, but I'm sure it will now I've opened my big mouth.
That's because of temperature changes, or the lack of... I hear if it get's to 60º on that arctic island people think it's a heat wave!!! And there's no sun light to unevenly solar heat panels either....
THat is not carved in stone ,guys -IT WILL WORK AND IT WILL STAY...... I have gl***ed a fibergl*** Aero drag car scoop [a foot tall x 2 ft long] to a steel hood and its still there after ten years of use with no cracks...I thought for sure it would fail but it has not!
Go to a real good body supply store and buy some panel adhesive [ I use Kent] its a two part epoxy that requires a special gun to use . it mixes in the applicator tube. all the major auto manufacturers use the stuff these days to attach fenders etc......... then bondo right over to finish. look at an early VW rabbit front fender and see how they're attached. no bolts or spot welds on top, just glue. Expect all the naysayers to hop all over this post, but remember they will all probably bad mouth "BONDO" too. Don't worry about traditional use what works and save yourself a lot of time. On my 51 I welded one side and glued the other and both have held up just fine. one sure got done a lot faster.
A good bonding material and rivets should work. A lot of the new cars that need to be repaired and are aluminum are often done that way (Audi A8, Jaguar XJ,and they new Z06) are all supposed to be repaired with few welds and bonds and rivets. There are even a few Mercedes in which the correct repair procedure on the frame is bonding and rivets. Your main issue would not as much be heat but galvanic corrosion depending on your methods of adhesion. Dan
I'd try out that panel adhesive. We saw a demo on it where they put two pieces of metal together with it, then at the end of the seminar they put in on a pulling machine and the steel ripped apart, NOT the adhesive. That made me believe in the stuff.
These are STOCK '57 Chevy headlight doors BRAZED to the fenders...smoothed with Duraglas and then finished with RAGE bondo...sealed with DP40 , primed with NCP 250 and painted with base coat/clear coat Urethane...been there almost 20 years now and nearly 90,000 miles...no signs of cracks yet. Of course, I live in Denver, CO where there are EXTREMES in temps, but then what do I know about bodywork? R-
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