looking for low profile rubber tranny mount

I have the engine position in my Modified project with the motor mounts installed. Now its time to tackle the ****** crossmember. I want the crossmember to not sit below the bottom of the rails but the problem is that would require a ****** crossmember to be about a 1/4" thick (not even close to being strong enough) if I use the stock GM rubber ****** mount (2" high).

I am using a T350 with a stock rubber ****** mount that is 2" thick. Does someone make a lower profile (less thick) ****** mount that would allow me to build a thicker/ stronger crossmember and keep my goal of having it tuck above the bottom of the rails.

 

Build tabs on the frame out of angle and clamp them(you will weld them when you find the location) on then build a x member out of 1x2 that dips down a bit under the trans. I will go out and take photos of mine if needed.

 

Aircooled VW trans mounts might work for you. Aftermarket ones are urathane and about 1" thick. You'll probably have to drill it for the mount holes but if it works, no big deal.

HTH, NAES

 

Like this.... stock mount

 

How about an ice hockey puck (cheap), or UHMW? Or, does it need more flex than those?

I looked at catalogs and mounts at an auto parts warehouse to find what I wanted.

 

Mount the trans from 2 of the tail housing bolts on each side to a tab on the frame. Not a close up picture, but you can get the idea

 

Make the crossmember out of channel iron like a U that wraps around the front and back of the mount you now have.

 

i have used plumber before for diff equiptment apllications as a dampner. you can get it at lowes or home depot.

 

Chevy use a tube behind the mount, with a tab sticking forward, and a gusset on each end (the tab and gussets are a simple U shaped piece of plate). Works great. And it's been copied by the aftermarket...just build something like this, but make it look less spiffy. and flip it over.

 

Easy, mount the trans directly to the cross member. Then rubber mount the ends of the cross member where it mounts to the frame. You could use tabs on the frame and urethane 4 link ends on the cross member ends for the mounts. Yeah, I'm a professional illustrator.....

 

Lots of great ideas here.

 

This is a neat looking idea, but beware it could crack the tailhousing if the engine or frame can move much, and the trans crossmember is stiff.

OEMs had good ways of mounting things, I try to use them when possible.

 

use two ch***is engineering motor mounts on either side of the transmission .they are only 1 1/4 tall and mount with a bolt through the rubbers.ch***is engineering # ss-0011 $25 00 a pair

 

i think mine came from a 55 chevy, little donuts that u could cut thinner if needed. also jeep guys use something similar for body mounts.

 

A version of the one in post nine with some drop in the tube and the bracket turned so that the mount was in front of the tube instead of above and on top of it would allow a stock mount and give plenty of clearance.

You would have to put the Ebay numbers in the search but here are some links for ideas.

150565414075

390289289739 If you flipped the trans mount bracket

250695948260

All of the above are for ideas to get the brain kicked in gear to build one and not a suggestion to buy one.

 

all of these are great ideas for crossmembers but I need a idea for an aftermarket rubber mount that is less then 2" tall (thick) so keep the crossmember from hanging below the rails. If the factory rubber trans mount (at 2" thick) is my only option, then almost any crossmember I build will hang to low . if i can get a mount that is even a 1/2" thinner rubber I can make something work. So looking for options on rubber ****** mounts

If i have to use the factory rubber mount then I will place the crossmember behind the mount location with a tab going under the trans. the head of the bolts will still hang to low, unless I use some low profile ****on head bolts (they might work). I want to put a belly pan under it which is why i do not want anything hanging below the bottom of the rails.

In the picture, the thin bar you see is sitting at the bottom of the rails (the bottom of the rubber mount is just below or exactly at the bottom of the rails.

Badshifter, interesting solution..did not catch the idea the first time I looked at it. moving the damping to the outer edge might work. (anyone see why that would not)

 

Just cut one out then. The UHMW or some heavy belting would work.

 

Badshifter, interesting solution..did not catch the idea the first time I looked at it. moving the damping to the outer edge might work. (anyone see why that would not)

Been running that exact set-up in my 50 woodie since 1998 and no issues. And it gets driven A LOT, and not so nice at times! It was easier to do a quick sketch than it was to go home, get car, jack up and take a pic.

 

i have a drop ****** mount and still had the problem your having, i just went and got a inch thick peice of rubber and drilled holes in it for the mounting bolts to go through. stuck it right between the ****** and the trans crossmember.

 

As said above maybe bend some tubing, and put flat plate on the ends as a bolt on item to the inside of the frame. As for the mounting plate for the trans a thick piece of metal welded low to the front edge of the tube, so the tube can tuck up close to the tail shaft.

 

Have you considered raising the engine/trans an inch or so? If you haven't gone too far with your build that would be one way if you aren't satisfied with the crossmember ideas offered.

Ray

 

Try flathead rubber motor mounts. they are a pretty thin rubber donut type ring .

 

I just went to NAPA and asked to look at their book for trans mounts. It has a picture of each mount and dimensions. Took me less then 1/2 hour, (including B.Sing
with the guys) to find the mount. And they just happened to have it in stock.