i just bought some 12to 6 reducers for my guages in my 50 ford and i got a quick question i know im supposed to have 1 reducer per item but i was wondering why i couldnt run one power wire in to the reducer then hook up a feed line to each item i want to run? instead of having abunch of bulky reducers hanging under my dash? would this cause too much heat? or???? any help is allways appreciated, yes this will be my first 6 to 12 conversion im just waiting on my rebel harness that i got from glenn33 to show up on the brown truck
You can use one reducer for all three gauges. The amp meter doesn't need one. If you are changing to negative ground from positive, just reverse the direction of the wire that goes through the coil on the amp gauge.
I plan on doing my first conversion over the winter. I thought when you went to 12volt most people go to an alternator and that a volt gauge replaces the amp gauge. True? Where would the connection be for the volt gauge?
If you use a common resistive reducer, the loads (amps) grow and the effective voltage goes down. It is a matter of ohm's law. Now if you use an active (solid state) reducer, this issue goes away. A simple voltage regulator will power most of the gauges you have mentioned. The big issue is polarity. If you have a 6V positive gnd car and replace with 12v negative gnd, you will have issues with polarity sensitive devices, such as radio, possibly some gauges. Motors are usually ok with change of polarity and will continue to turn in the correct direction. I usually don't promote other products, but a RUNTZ regulator may work for your application. If the RUNTZ does not have the capabilities of reducing all of your needs, then please PM me, as I have a new product that will provide up to 16 amps of current at half the input voltage, ie: 12/2=6v. This is an active type of reducer and will not change voltage with additional loads up to the maximum rated current. My price of the product is very reasonable, so please feel free to inquire.
The volt gauge should be at the battery, or a battery feed at the ignition switch. The reasoning why an ammeter is not preferred is that most alternators are capable of 100 amps or more output, and your old +/- 30 amp ammeter would get fried and would be pegged most of the time after starting. Yes you could put a 200 amp ammeter in place of the existing ammeter and be ok, but who sells these? SW? I doubt it. The voltmeter is much more practical.
so your saying to put the positive wire where the negative wire is now on the amp guage? im using "standard" brand reducers instead of the popular runtz style
I am doing my first 6v to 12v conversion on a 1952 chevy deluxe neg ground i need info on how to place a voltage drop on the gas gauge what do I need to do so my gas gauge will not burn out?thanks danny locodan56@yahoo.com
please send me some info on runtz style voltage reducer. I am currently converting from 6v to 12v negative ground 52 chevy. I need info on how to connect the reducer to my gas gauge and can I also connect my defrost motor on the same reducer? thanks danny. locodan56@yahoo.com