Headlight switch as dimmer?

I'm starting to put my dash/gauge panel together, and I have one of those vintage generic headlight switches that has two positions.
One, I assume is for running lights, and then you pull it farther out for another position. Can I use the switch as a dimmer? Could I wire the farthest out position for high beam, and wire the first notch for low beam?
The switch is from General Automotive Specialty # 16s-2, and the box is pre zip code. On the top of the switch where the fuse is, one lug is marked P. I assume that is parking light. Next to it is a lug marked H, bet I can figure that one out. Next is the one with the fuse marked B. Betcha that's for the hot wire.
And then two lugs bridged together marked T, I assume for tail lights.
I like simple and this seems like a good idea to me.
BTW, I've put my ignition switch at the bottom center of my '32 style dash, speedo in the center, oil and water on the right of it, and fuel on the left of the speedo.
I'm going to have an idiot light for charge, it's either charging or it isn't. Don't see a need for another gauge.
I've puy my ignition switch on the bottom center of the dash, and the headlight switch on the left side of the steering column by the door.
Any objections? Any glaring safety problems I haven't thought of in placing those two switches, the only switches on the dash?
I have a '72 Chevy p/u steering column, so I have horn and turn signals in the column. Thanks, Mike

 

dude use a early VW one and put a different knob on it they dim bitchen

 

The switch I bought at a swap meet comes with the high and lows or no dimmer switch.

 

Hey Mike,
I bought a headlight switch from the Sachse Rod Shop over by
Garland that was purpose built with two positions like you
describe to avoid using a floor mounted dimmer switch.
MickeyD ('62 Bryan Adams kid)

 

no you don't want both high beam and low beam to have power at the same time. that switch would do that.

 

I would definately use a relay and when you pull it out to the first spot have it open up a relay that powers tail lights, front parking ligts, and low beam headlights. then when you pull it out to the second position Use the lug that would regularly give power the the headlights in general supply power to a second relay that opens up and gives power to the high beam.

Make sense? Kind of hard to explain without a schematic. I plan on doing the exact same thing on my p/u

 

The headlight switch in my roadster is wired that way and it's worked great for years.

 

You must not be very old if you don't remember early cars having parking lamps (and they didn't come on with the headlamps) then the headlights came on. Some swithes aren't make to take the high draw on the park light position. Hook it up like it should be and dither put the dimmer on the floor like old school so you left foot has somthing to do at night or get the newer turn signal switch and relay to dim you lights. Also you could go too far with the switch and oughten them just long enough to have a problem.
Also add a volt or amp meter. charge or not charge NOT. bad diaode and it will charge but not enough. and it will drawn the batt down when not running.

 

^If he uses relays he should be fine because he will run verry little current thourgh the switch. I do agree that it is cool to have the dimmer on the floor that way your left foot doesnt bored and it clears stuff up from the steering column. I have it set up that way in my el camino but since i dont have much room in my 32 p/u and i have big feet dont have much room in the first place.

 

The relay thing should be OK. I have also seen the old style dimmer fastened to the dash. I still like the floor and My 29 A has a smaller floor than a 32 and size 13 shoes.

 

Don't fight girls! You're both pretty. I got my answer, thanks, guys. BTW, George, I'm 62. (Bryan Adams, class of '66, Blackrat, back at ya, bro)

 

Beweare anyone who starts out with dude. Do the switch like you sayed but back it up with relays

 

You won't pass a safety inspection with that switch setup, at least up here. Floor switch or signal arm dimmer, that's it.

 

I know it wouln't make it here in Pa. either.
Not understand the two on positions on a headlight switch I would have thought under 30 years old.

 

Got mine from Speedway for $30, it's a hi/lo dash light switch.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Headlight-Switch-With-Hi-Low,41767.html
Funny thing is, it came in Painless Wiring packaging.
Instructions are on this link, just select "instructions" link when the window comes up. A PDF file will open.

 

Mike I have the same switch in my 40 and use the second position for high beam.

 

Have had 3 cars wired up that way with 2 position headlight switches from tractor supply with no relay and never had a problem with it. And the switches where under 10 bucks.

 

Thanks, I've been waiting for someone from Texas to chime in.
Doesn't look like Texas cares as long as there is an indicator on the dash to show when high beam is on.

 

I'm pretty sure even with relays that both the high and low beams will be on in the high beam position.

 

This is Texas man. They're not very strict on the inspections down here.
My experiences have always been that as long as it goes, stops, and has lights you're good when it comes to old iron. I'm not talking paying off the inspector either; they just don't henpeck old cars here like they seem to everywhere else.
Quick question to the OP, why don't you want to run the floor mount dimmer?

 

Have a 3 position switch in my 47 that does parking, lows and then highs. I love it.

 

Just make sure you test it before mounting everything in the dash , wired up my econoline like this and had a cop stop me because the taillights did not work with the high beams on. Had to tear the dash apart and run a jumper wire to the high beam side for the taillights. Even though the work with just the low beam on he would not let me leave till I fixed it in a gas station parking lot