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Need advice to fix suspension

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ijuslikefords, Mar 6, 2011.

  1. ijuslikefords
    Joined: Dec 15, 2010
    Posts: 27

    ijuslikefords
    Member

    Hey ya'll. Some may remember from my opening post (thanks for the kind words for those that replied), I recently picked up a 30 Model A. Well, the rear suspension is a total hack job, and I need advice on how to fix it quickly, cheaply, but right. The original crossmember was cut out on both sides real bad to make room for coilover shocks. A repo frame would be the best answer, but then I loose the original VIN, and I don't like the idea of cutting the frame up. The car currently have a 10 bolt chevy with homemade looking ladder bars and some cobbled up brackets.

    I was thinking about getting a 8.8 explorer rear out of the pick n pull to get a cheap traction lock and disk brakes depending on how much rework has to be done.
    It also has a th350 that doesn't have reverse. I don't want to spend money to fix something I don't like, so I am thinking about swapping for a 200/700R4. Can anyone tell me how to hook up the "kickdown" on a 700?

    Thanks for the help.

    Ray
     

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  2. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 9,253

    mgtstumpy
    Member

  3. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,388

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Ditch the crappy ladder bars, coils and cross member.

    Get a reproduction rear cross member, and a set of Pete and Jake's ladder bars, with cross member. Top it off with an Model A leaf spring and hardware, shackles and mounts.

    Classic, simple and effective.
     
  4. newsomtravis
    Joined: Jun 1, 2009
    Posts: 562

    newsomtravis
    Member
    from pville, ca

    thats too bad, real nice car on the outside, shit underneath......looks like a whole backhalf redo to me.......sucks.....
     
  5. MAD MIKE
    Joined: Aug 1, 2009
    Posts: 909

    MAD MIKE
    Member
    from 94577

    200-4R Shifting Problem!
    A few more links to look over. And its a Throttle Valve, or TV, cable. It controls the pressure in the transmission, its not just a kickdown cable.
    TH2004R Identification
    On the tailshaft of the transmission is a metal tag riveted on. It will have in large letters the transmissions code, two or three letters
    KZF -- Olds 442/Hurst
    CZF -- 85-88 Monte SS
    CRF -- 85-88 LG4 305 powered Monte Carlos/Pontiac Grand Prix
    BRF -- 86-87 GN/T-Type/Turbo Regals
    BQ -- 84-85 GN/T-Type/Turbo Regals
    BR -- 83 Model T-Types
    TAF -- 89 Turbo Trans Am
    OZ -- Hurst Olds
    OM -- Olds 350 Diesels
    OG -- Olds 307
    BY -- V-6 252 Cars
    AA and AP -- Cadillac's

    The sport models, Turbo cars; H/O 442; MCSS, would be the most coveted and out of the box most aggressive shifting. The AA/AP Caddy will be the softest shifting. The CRF and OG would most likely be the prime candidates for a buildup. The main differences is the valve body and the weights on the governor. http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/oft200.htm

    I prefer the TH200 4R, the gear drop between gears is better, and the case length is the same as a TH350, but it uses the TH400s rear mount location. Really easy swap on vehicles with a crossmember that can slide back from TH350 to TH400 mounts. No D shaft mods. Also the 2004R will upshift under WOT into 4th.

    The 700R4, the 1-2 drop is pretty significant. Avoid early '83/'84 models, they have a smaller input shaft. In fact, avoid any 700 that is not '88/'89-'92(called 4L60, '93-up are 4L60E which require a computer to shift). I've had two 700s blow up for no apparent reason. First one a slight incline on the freeway(no load, ~70MPH) did a 4-3 down shift and the stator in the TC grenade. Any throttle input past 1/4 in OD will cause a downshift, there is the B&M sleeve, like found in Corvettes and 9C1 Caprices, that will allow for more throttle input before a down shift, but still no WOT 3-4 upshift.
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2011
  6. willowbilly3
    Joined: Jun 18, 2004
    Posts: 4,356

    willowbilly3
    Member Emeritus
    from Sturgis

    Having been in the repair business many years, someone wanting a fix that is quick, cheap and right brings back a flood of bad memories. If you can fabricate, the cheapest fix might be to get another stock crossmember and modify it, box it in to do the same basic function. Maybe you could move the coilover mounts on the axle too.
     
  7. ijuslikefords
    Joined: Dec 15, 2010
    Posts: 27

    ijuslikefords
    Member

    Thanks for the help. I've seen my share of quick and cheap repairs, so my emphasis is on right. But I have a couple other projects going and would like to have this running with the nice weather breaks hear in Virginia. That said, I was thinking about making a square tube cross member like I saw in a web add that curves around the axle to the rear and mounting the coil-overs off of that.
     
  8. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,606

    badshifter
    Member

    Oh no. Follow Gimpys advice, post # 3. Easy to find, looks fantastic, fool proof, etc. Sell the coilovers and whatever you can salvage from current setup. You will be instantly happy, and more importantly, happy years from now as opposed to a quick fix.
     
  9. Bert Kollar
    Joined: Jan 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,261

    Bert Kollar
    Member

    I have a brand new Posies super slider reversd model A rear spring with mounting brackets i'll make you a deal on if you go that way. pm me at bkollar44060@msn.com
     

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