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283 Chevy/'39 Ford trans questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Harrison, Mar 24, 2005.

  1. Harrison
    Joined: Jan 25, 2002
    Posts: 7,133

    Harrison
    Member

    I've messed with cars for 20 years now but have managed to never install a clutch. I'm about ready to install my flywheel/clutch/pressure plate.

    283 engine, Wilcap adaptor, '39 Ford trans. I have the 168 tooth flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate, and little busing to go into the end of the crankshaft.

    Anybody care to weigh in on how this stuff should go together? Anything in particular I need to watch out for?

    Thanks, JH
     
  2. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    I believe there are two basic setups depending on your pressure plate. If you have a Long type plate (Many older aftermarket hotrod flywheels, a few stock applications), use a normal Ford pressure plate and disc and put it together. A flywheel of this sort will have six boltholes in three groups, with the holes in each pair separated by maybe 3".
    Most stock Chevy wheels are drilled for Borg&Beck type plate or a Belleville washer type with evenly spaced holes. My understanding is that these work best with a '49-50 Mercury throeout bearing, which is a direct swap onto the '39 Ford hub. The little bushing is just to match size of trans shaft to pilot bearing, and it is quite important to proper trans operation and life.
    Get torque specs for all, but especially the pressure plate bolts, as correct torque on them is way less than what seems right. Flywheel and pressure plate bolts must be purpose made, not Home Depot. ARP or Mr Gasket will likely be much easier to find than OEM.
     
  3. Deuce Roadster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2002
    Posts: 9,519

    Deuce Roadster
    Member Emeritus

     
  4. Wilcap
    Joined: Feb 23, 2003
    Posts: 16

    Wilcap
    Member

    The biggest issue witht he 307 adapter is the pressure plate. The original application for the correct pressure palte was the 49-50 Mercury. This was a 10.5" Borg and Beck with the short fingers. Typical GM diaphragm pressure plates will not work because the fingers hit the Ford bearing retainer as the clutch is released (the diaphragm has less travel from released to engaged so even when the fingers are ground down to clear the bearing retainer, the result is a "On/Off" clutch with the Ford TOB linkage). We sell a 12 spring version in 10.5" or 11" with the fingers adjusted to the correct height (see the phot above from our web site). The 168 tooth flywheel commonly has the 11" pattern. The adapter was originaly designed to use the 3 bolt 55-62 Chevy starter but will work with the later block mount starter for the 168 tooth flywheel with some work to the starter area (the one we sell direct already have this done). The piolt bearing adapter has to stick out of the crankshaft in order to reach the input shaft pilot. With the short finger B&B pressure plate, the stock Ford throw out bearing works fine. The above should hold true for the Offy and Cragar 307 adapters also. Hope this helps.
     
    choptop4 likes this.
  5. Deuce Roadster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2002
    Posts: 9,519

    Deuce Roadster
    Member Emeritus

    Wow..........the adapter folks...

    I had a Wilcap in my 40........since 1957.....and it worked great....

    Missed Wilcap's intro...........Welcome Wilcap.....Tony made good stuff :D

    .
     
  6. Harrison
    Joined: Jan 25, 2002
    Posts: 7,133

    Harrison
    Member

    Thanks for the info guys and welcome Wilcap!

    My pressure plate is a '50 Merc unit. Sounds like I should be ok.

    JH
     

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