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S-10 frame swap questions- 50 chevy pu

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by dt50chev, Mar 24, 2005.

  1. dt50chev
    Joined: Mar 15, 2005
    Posts: 596

    dt50chev
    Member

    I have a 1950 chevy pickup and I just bought an 83 s-10 longbed frame to put under it. It was $100 at my local wrecking yard. I got all of the suspension and brakes and all with it. I plan to swap the rear axle for one from a Nova. My questions have to do with the driveshaft, steering column and brake master cylinder. Are you folks that are running the S-10 frame using the 2 piece driveshaft or are you having a one piece shaft made to the proper length? If I use my original steering column (and i want to) where can I get the proper bushing to put in the bottom of it? Which brake master cylinder should I use? I managed to get the master cylinder and proportioning valve with the frame I purchased. Should I go back and get the booster with it? I don't mind having manual brakes and I would like to put the master cylinder on the frame under the cab like the original. I know these are a lot of questions, thanks for being understanding and for any help you can provide a fellow rodder.
     
  2. Clark
    Joined: Jan 14, 2001
    Posts: 5,132

    Clark
    Member

    For the driveshaft I always run a single driveshaft. Check your local junkyards. Mine has a pile of driveshafts. I just dig through it till I find the correct length.

    Stock steering column bushing. No clue. What kind of bushing does it have at the top? Can you use one from the top on the bottom?

    I would just get a new master cylinder for a manual brake S-10. As for mounting the pedal. I would suggest mounting it on the firewall using the S-10 pedal assy. I put mine under the floor and it's a pain in the ass. I made mine but you could buy a universal set up and make it work.
    Clark
     
  3. dt50chev
    Joined: Mar 15, 2005
    Posts: 596

    dt50chev
    Member

    Thanks for the input, Clark. I got my frame moved from the wrecking yard over to the shop I work at today. Hopefully I can start cleaning it up and cutting off the unnecessary stuff next week.
     
  4. psycho_bob
    Joined: Mar 14, 2005
    Posts: 11

    psycho_bob
    Member

    If you mount the master cylinder on the frame, make sure it is mounted higher than the wheel cylinders. This is especially the case if you're going to lower the suspension. If it's below the wheel cylinders, it could cause some problems. To make it easier, I'd say go with clark's suggestion and use the firewall mount. If it were me, I'd use the stock brake system from the S-10, along with the column, pedals, and all the brackets to mount it all.
     
  5. The Shocker
    Joined: Dec 30, 2004
    Posts: 3,538

    The Shocker
    Member

    Dont know about the driveshaft thing,but a friend of mine with a lathe made me a bushing out of brass stock for my 53' passenger car coloum it centers the shaft in the housing and then we simply welded the old shaft to the new steering shaft.Once we nocked the bushing up in the housing I drilled it and taped it from the sides and screwed it in place.I have heard that Speedway makes a kit for this,but I have never seen it.
     
  6. chaco
    Joined: May 5, 2001
    Posts: 265

    chaco
    Member
    from Modesto,CA

    Check with the supply companys i was eyeing one from chevy duty its pricey Its like 45 bucks. You might be able to find one at a bearing shop or where they re-build electrical motors. I used a wheelbarow( correct spelling?) bearing on my pontiac it worked after a little manipulation.
     

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