We used to call cars that had there body work done poorly, "friendly cars", because they wave at you as they drive by.
I never use that crap! I just paint on 45 coats of primer filler and that does it. No, seriuosly, I know how to do metal work without plastic filler and have done it on a few occasions. I try to do every job thay way, actually, but I usually wind up needing some filler. If I was doing this professionally I'd be a lot less SLOW, but I can take the time, so I do. My instructors at tech school started when lead was the only choice. None of them still used it. Lead is messy and hrad to figure out. I've done it, but it sucks. Keep it thinner than a nickle and it'll do the job and last a long time. If you can't get the panel that close replace it. If it's too hard to find a new one, learn to love filler.
I thought the reason bondo had a bad name is because it sucks to work with. It get a crappy sticky surface on it when is sets up that eats up paper like no other and Its like sanding a rock making it even harder to get stuff straight.
I was reading up on polyester resins used for fiberglass work, related to a robot project I'm working on. Apparently they add wax to the "finish" type of resin, and don't add it to the "laminating" resin. The wax seals out the air when it's curing, so the surface will cure completely. I wonder if the different types of "bondo" (sticky and not sticky) are like that too?
It's not sticky if fully cured. Try a bit more hardener, and if you use a cheese grater or some 80-grit to knock down the high spots first it wont clog the paper.
with a high quality filler you don't get that paper clogging surface, just the darker surface, which acts like a shadow coat to help find the low spots. body filler got it's bad name because the original instructions actually said to stuff holes with newspaper or fly screen then fill.
For 99% of the cars out there, if they are straight, they have some form of filler. People ask me if I use filler and I tell them I sure do, just like the pro's. I don't see the big deal. Neal
They used to call guys that didn't use filler "pick & file" men, and claim that they could get a panel straight without using lead or polyester filler. I've worked on more than a few vintage cars that had old "pick & file", non-filler repairs on them, and believe me, the quality of repair that was acceptable "back in the day" would get you shown the door at most quality shops today. The repairs back then just weren't up to current acceptable "commercial" standards, let alone show quality work. If filler is properly applied, over properly bumped, picked and filed metal work, it will appear to be almost translucent, metal can be seen for at least a few inches around the outside of the repair. And even if you do GREAT metal work, you'll still end up spraying on coats of catalyzed primer filler, which is essentially body filler that's been thinned. We used to call primer guns "the straightening gun". I've seen repairs I did 30 years ago using fillers, and you can't tell it from the factory panel adjoining it...Bottom line is, there's nothing wrong with it if you use it wisely, and make sure it's over PROPERLY PREPARED BARE METAL, and no problems will be had. EW
If you want the car straight there is no way around it. Body filler applied correctly is your best friend. Use a good quality filler, for example I like Evercoats Rage Gold, in my opinion one of the best fillers out there. Filler gets it's bad rap from people fixing cars who really do not know what they are doing. I have been in the autobody world for 10 years and if you want them straight, the car gets filled from taillight to headlight. Unless you get that rare panel that has not been damaged or repaired then you can go to a sprayable polyester filler like Slick Sand. Z-grip is also a good cheaper filler if you are on a budget. I don't know how many people do this but I do, I shake all my filler on the paint shacker a few day before I want to ust it, it mixes the resin in thourghly and I have never had any problems of pinholes by doing this. Also lots of coats of primer instead of filler is not better. Lots of coats of primer chips easier than a coat of filler, filler is stronger base. In the industry it is called filler not Bondo, bondo is a Brand name like Evercoat and Bondo sands like shit, use Z-grip if you want something cheaper. It is like $20 a gallon. Any questions just ask.
Also on the properly prepared metal. Filler can be applied to ground metal but also can be applied to a DP primer, like PPG DP90. The panel or the hole car is sanded down to bare metal, wax and rease removed, sprayed with a metal etch primer, don't remember the #'s and then sprayed with a DP90. Let dry for a couple days, you can apply filler to the panel without scuffing with in a certain amount of days, the p-sheet would tell you, I do not remember off the top of my head. However I sand my DP with 240 grit and a red scuffy for the hard to reach areas. Wax and grease remove again. Mix and apply filler to panel. It is a chemical bond instead of a mechanical bond.
If you use a quality filler and add a sufficient amount of hardener you most likely will not have a problem, but even the good fillers can get a sticky surface when it's cold or old or not mixed correctly. Warm temps need less hardener. When it's colder you need to add more hardener. It's trial and error. Sometimes I still get times when the plastic gods just will not work with you and I wipe the tacky surface off with lacquer thinner or acetone, let it dry and you will not clog the sand paper as much. I like evercoat zgrip for normal work (sticks to galvanized surfaces) and evercoat rage xtreme for better work. Work the metal the best that you can, clean the surface with lacquer thinner( I use alcohol at this point). It is better to put thinner coats on and build up the surface than to sand off too much mud. USE A GOOD RESPIRATOR! I use a 3m painters mask. It's your lungs! I think the thin cheap dusk masks suck! Have fun sanding and looking like a snowman.
I love all of the remarks. I myself use as little as possible. There is no way around not at least skiming a repair. I have just seen a lot of cars with tons of bondo. I use bondo as a name for filler, I like usc myself. I just had to throw away a third of a can because I had it for a year and a half. Thanks all!
I dont know I could be wrong but I dont think plastic goes bad the hardener does. you can just add more resin if its really thick. I did see one can of tiger hair crystalize before I think it sat in a truck for about 15 years It was junk. Ive used old plastic and never had any problems not antique plastic but old. what type of usc do you use.
Car in a can? What's not to love? I've used and abused the stuff for years. And I have learned that all in all you need a solid foundation before you plaster away. So use it gently and not like peanut butter. Plus the more you put on, the more you have to sand off.
I use "All Metal " aluminum epoxy on weld seams ,"Dynalight" filler on small dents that i cant work out from the back,then 3M "Pirahanna Putty" for fine finish work ,because its a two part mix but it sands real easily and can be used on properly roughed up primered surfaces or bare metal.Use any qaulity filler sparenly and it will last a long time. I dont use Bondo brand anything .Its cheap shit and hard to work with...
Well my 2 cents is to let it cure without primer on it between coats at least a day... some of the best work can shrink up if done too much too fast
Hey Smit, 4A FNG, YOU come on like "Gang Busters"........Welcome! frum Tenn. An THANKS fer tha' good Posts!! I'm limited budget, and stickin' to Striaght enamel, and appreciate your double info on fillers. ben tol, if?, I use the NEW Hi $$ primer, it will lif enamel, as if i was spraying over lacquer??? What good primer should I use? Fortunutley!! My Car is mostly "Striaght".... like Smokey2. Thanks Again. John
Bondo is like Spit!!!!!!!!! Sometimes it's all thats available------If you want to DRIVE IT HOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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