Removing 9" Ford axles.....stuck..

I'm removing the axles from my 69 Ford Bronco rearend..the driverside one came right out..the passenger side one is another issue...is there anything I should know or method to use...I've bolted a 15" piece of channel iron that has 2 studs hole in it..then I bolted it agaisnt the stud plate with 2 wheel nuts........I've been hitting it from the backside trying to remove the axle...no luck...I've also tried spraying the bearing area inside the axle housing...no luck...I'm I missing something...oh yea the 4 bolts have been removed..can I heat the axle housing...???...I do plan to replace the bearings and seal...maybe I should buy a bigger hammer,,,

 

slide hammer. At the junkyard we used a big piece of chain, bolted to a wheel stud. Put on a real heavy glove, give it some slack, then yank the end of the chain.

 

Rent a slide hammer puller. Put the nuts on backwards and hammer away. Use heat only as a last resort. I have usually managed with the chain and leather glove method. Yank, turn the axle, yank, keep it up for a few minutes.

 

Fuck that slide hammer shit. Put a chain on one stud get back about 6-10 feet and whip the chain, and pull. That ill put some force on it. Screw that lug on real snug to.

 

Slide hammer has always worked for me.

 

what squirrel said ive done the same with the chain works great thats how ive allways done it!

 

used a chain at the dragstrip for gear change many times...

 

I have tied a Come a Long to apply steady pressure to an axle. Cinch it up and walk away...it will pop out in few minutes.

 

x2. I have used the same method to pull front pumps from automatics.

 

Fasten the chain to one wheel stud, loop it back to another stud, put a 2 ft piece of pipe thru the loop. With one hand on each side of the chain, let it go slack, then pull hard, repeat as necessary...poor mans slide hammer!

 

I just use an old brake drum mounted backwards with the lug nuts on just enough so the drum doesn't fly off,poor mans slide hammer!! ROY.

 

This has always worked for me providing the bearing race isn't welded to the housing!

Bob

 

WELDED...???????...from friction heat or would some a-hole weld this...
I tried the drum method...was getting worried about breaking the drum...the chain method is next..then the slide hammer..

 

Most chain stores like Auto Zone, Advance and O'Reilys have a tool loaner program.

Go get this



NEVER had it fail me in over 40 years.
I bought mine in the late 60's ... and they do work.

 

some good advise in this thread http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=409304

 

I've used a slide hammer like Deuce Roadster showed in frame 14 lots of times when I had one available but have used a log chain with a pipe more often than not. Do what Chop32 said he did. Use a fairy heavy chain if you have one and the heavier piece of short pipe or bar through the loop in the chain the better.

 

That's how I have always done it.

 

The key word here is BRONCO. I have seen these bent enough (it don't take much) that the axle tube would have to be cut in order to save the center section. Your's may be fine but check it for true before you beat your self up.

 

Slide Hammer usually works best.

Nigger riggin a chain like a few people have said will work also.

 

I usually take a length of chain and bolt as everyone else has on both ends, with the chain run through the center of an old rim. Swing the rim like a slide hammer. this has gotten the toughest ones I have encountered.

 

The main reason ( for me ) for NOT doing the chain method is I have seen the axle " JUMP OUT " and hit someone.

With the slide puller method ... you have a lot better control of the axle shaft once it breaks loose

 

Deuce roadster has the best answer, right tool for the right job!!
Some cases the outside of that big bearing might have some surface rust causing your problem.----I wouldn't apply heat tho. (On outside axle housing).

 

heat the area behind the backing plate where bearing resides and then use a slide hammer with axle puller adaption.

 

May I ask why you felt the need to use the "N" word for emphasis?
R/
Calvin.

 

I always just get a slide hammer from advance. Basically you have to pay the price of the tool (I think it was about $130 dollars last time) and then you can use it as long as you want I believe. Then you just take it back and the refund you 100% of your money. The program is designed to work that way. I know some people do the same thing with tools at Lowe's, but I think that is frowned upon, lol! At Advance Auto Parts they actually promote the program. You just pay for the tool so that if you don't bring it back it's no big deal.

I had a rearend that was giving me fits, and after I got the slide hammer it literally took about 2 minutes and both axles were out.

 

My thought exactly don't expect hate talk here course up here we call that WETBACK rigging!

 

ever thought of sliding a piece of round stock through from the other side and use it as a drift pin to knock it out?

 

Old car fart has the idea. warm it up and hit it hard. Use an even heat and should loosen and come right out.

 

yea I have had to heat up 8'' before but 9'' are usually a tapered bearing Idk if itll help you maybe.

 

I had a 69 bronco rear with the same problem, I had to heat them up a little also, came right out. I was nervous about it too, but everything appears to be ok.