I need to replace the old 12 volt push ****on starter switch in my pickup. Does anyone know of a good quality HD (USA made) switch that would work? How many amps should it be rated at?
That's perfect. Their M-490 35 amp switch will work great http://a248.e.akamai.net/f/248/21700/1d/content.westmarine.com/images/catalog/large/109330.jpg
Kinda related....Can somebody tell me how these old starter ****ons were wired? The description said 1937-1950 Ford, single wire. Thanks
Just a thought, and I know this isn't a USA product, but... Did you ever think about using a late model push/start ****on off of a Honda/Infinity/Cadillac/Buick, etc. The ****ons are usually red and have the 'start' lettering on them. Just a suggestion.
Thanks Mike....I kinda thought that might be the case, bummer I was really wanting to use one of these switches on our car, but on 12v neg ground sys using a ford solenoid. I have a two pole switch but it doesnt look like this at all. I wonder if anybody makes something similar but with 2 poles. thanks again
Shouldn't be a problem. On the later Ford solenoids the positive is switched and the other side of the coil goes to ground. You should be able to hook the positive side of the coil to the battery or other continuous 12 volt positive source and switch the ground through the switch. It's just a loop for the current from the battery and back again and the electrons don't care where in that loop you put the switch. Just make sure the switch will handle the current and that you use heavy enough wire.
Quick note. When I said "coil" I was referring to the relay coil in the solenoid, not the ignition coil. Buy you all knew that...
thanks as well, doc. I think I understand what you are saying, except for one thing, I thought the ground side of the relay coil was internal and connected to the mount bracket on later model style ford starter solenoids....but I could be wrong
I'm getting ready to order 2 of the M-490's from these guys http://www.marinepowerservice.com/BoatingStore/browse_detail3.cfm/productID/5269.cfm The Cole Hersee M-490 is an extra heavy-duty marine grade push ****on switch
If that's the case it'll be a little trickier. You'll need to isolate the case from the fender or whatever metal piece it's attached to. Remember that the not only will the bracket need to be isolated, but the mounting bolts as well. Rubber grommets, block of wood, any number of ways to keep the frame from grounding. Then just run you're switched ground wire to the solenoid's mounting bracket. I actually haven't looked at a Ford solenoid since I used one to control the airplane landing lights I had on my '57 Chevy back in high school (a long time ago). They made great, cheap high current relays. Another way to handle this would be a second relay in the positive 12V lead to the solenoid. It adds another component and something else that can fail, but you could switch the ground on that relay and run the power through the relay contacts to the solenoid's coil. Or you could just use a two wire switch. Any number of ways to approach it. Let me know if you need any more information.
you could use a standard ignition SS-587, insulated base and the wire grounds and completes the circuit. also for a 2 pole push ****on try a standard ignition SSB-1 I also added another relay on my '47 so it wouldn't crank without the ignition switch on (most early fords will crank without the ignition on).
THE HAMB STRIKES AGAIN!!!!! Thanks Oldtimer, the "bay" had an SSB-1 for 8 bucks, free shipping, its has the perfect look, thanks again.
Just use the single wire switch to complete the circuit to activate a relay, which operates the starter. Not difficult at all. I just have a simple cheap <10amp push****on in my T and it works fine with a bigger light circuit relay to the starter!
no problem, only hitch is standard is hit or miss about being made in the USA......still good quality though.
what gudguz says--use the stock single wire switch to close a relay to fire the starter-relay is only hot with key on--do all my 40's this way
I use a spring-loaded toggle switch on my truck. Got it at a place that has a lot of stuff for over-the-road trucks.
Great thread, the push ****on starter ****on is a feature I want on my Roadster for a clean looking dash, now were do you hide the key switch, and what yould you use?
If you use a relay to operate the starter's solenoid, then the switch can be the smallest lightest duty one. All the ****on will do is operate the relay (****** all current draw) The relay does the hard work.
I use a simple horn relay as stated above to activate the solenoid on my Chevy starter solenoid. It works fine and in the rare case that it should fail on the road, they are very easy to find and replace. No mail order catalog required.
That Cole Hersee that Wrencher409 mentioned makes a ton of different switches, as well as keyed ones. Check it out http://www.colehersee.com/catalog_top/index.htm I like the all br*** marine stuff Made in USA too
Hot Rod Leather has one and it says start right on the front. I bought one for my A Sedan and they are an Alliance Vendor.
..if you can find one, the original dash mounted starter ****on out of a '47 Plymouth is the cat's pajamas...nickle plated, has a deco look with a real nice tapered bezel and heavy duty spring loaded double contact points that will last 3 lifetimes. ..here's one but it's a little pricey (and greasy). I usually find them for around $25. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1946...tZVintageQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories .
I used a Ford relay and a small switch in a volks rod I built .. works great. The switch doesn't take any current ... its all handled in the relay.
i always use a ford type solenoid that way the starter on a sbc can't be jumped. as i stated before the SS-587 works perfect with a single wire stock starter ****on or a double contact (if it's used for ground). also i used an a/c clutch relay instead of a horn relay for the starter on my '47 because a horn relay is just meant to be a short burst and the a/c is meant to be on for awhile.
Just FYI....after purchasing this switch I figured out that one of the poles is a direct path to ground through the switch housing, so when the switch is made, the path is to ground....so didn't work for what I wanted (although it had the exact look I was hoping for).
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