Combined turn and brake lights with that swap meet treasure

Here is the scenario: you just scored that art deco turn signal switch from the 30’s at the local swap meet.

You know the one that looks like a Flash Gordon ray gun






And it totally matches the Art Deco clock you found from a 1937 Buick






But wait, there is a problem. You want to run your genuine '49 Pontiac rear lights

This means the bulb needs to do double duty and act as a brake light and a turn light! But the turn signal switch has only 4 wires; one for the internal turn signal light and 3 wires for its turn function (a common wire that either shorts one or the other of the remaining 2 wires).

You will need to be able to solder and you will need these parts from Radio Shack. While you're there you can grab a soldering iron if need be.

Quantity 2 - 12VDC/10A DPDT Plug-in Relay Model: 275-218 Catalog #: 275-218

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Quantity 2 - Socket for 10-Amp Plug-In Relay Model: 275-220 Catalog #: 275-220

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You will also need a brake line switch in your brake system and a 3 prong flasher from the auto parts store. You need the one with the 3 pins marked P X L

The sockets are made to fit in a rectangular hole so fashion a suitable bracket from sheet metal to mount them side by side. The hole is 1" x 0.85"

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Finally we get to the TECH part, wire the components as per the schematic below. I tried to draw it as clearly as possible and hopefully the way it's laid out you can see the flow.

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That's it. Use 14G wire for everything and 15A fuses. If you want to use the standard Signal Stat wire color scheme it is:

RED = FRONT RIGHT
GREEN = FRONT LEFT
BLACK = RIGHT REAR
GREY = LEFT REAR
BLUE = FLASHER P
YELLOW = FLASHER L
BLACK/GREY TO STOP LIGHT SWITCH




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nice job, thats the most beautiful signal switch i have ever seen, have never seen one before, is it aftermarket or what type of car would you find it in.....

 

Thanks for the writeup!

 

it's a Yankee!!

Nice Tech!!! that'll help me out as well!!!

 

Was this just an elaborate excuse to show off your cool swap meet finds?

 

Beautiful--And a good tech

 

excellent write up thks.....

 

Yes but it does have some tech value! and it took some time and about 4 attempts to come up with that clear schematic.

 

My XK150 had a Lucas relay setup that did the same thing. I replaced it with a trailer light adapter like this one:


A lot easier than soldering the relay board.

 

I tried a trailer adapter first but it failed.
I think it failed because I wanted halogen rear lights and they use a lot more power than regular bulbs and the current burnt it out. I wanted it to be bright enough to compensate for no third light as in modern cars.
Be aware I have old rear lights made of metal and the lenses are glass, halogen bulbs would melt re-pops might be the reason the re-pops come with LED's

 

Great tech!
You get an "atta boy!"

 

Yeah, that might overpower some of these things. I never had any issue with good 'pl 1157's, but halogens eat more current.

 

Your schematic is a work of art. Good Job!

 

Great tech! (I have a couple old vintage turn signals)

 

two techs for the price of one

So someone suggested a trailer electronic module instead of my relay solution for turn signals. So now I can air my dirty little secret.
My 27 Roadster is small to say the least and I am not, so getting in and out was problematic. There was no way I was going to install a tilt steering column and fat man wheels are stupidly expensive. So what to do?

My solution to getting my fat arse in and out of my tiny roadster was to use a quick release steering wheel but this lead to another dilemma.
How was I going to wire the horn button on my Lime work’s leather and chrome 4 spoke wheel?
I resorted to adding a Chinese made electronic module. I know, I know not traditional and what if it fails? I figured the benefits outweighed the sacrilege.
So here it is if you have the same problem, go to this website and buy this its only $16.75 shipped so if it fails just buy another one (Harbor Freight logic at work here)

http://www.clickandlights.com/servlet/the-16/MOMENTARY-SWITCH-WIRELESS-REMOTE/Detail

The internal relay in this module can handle 8 amps so to play safe I wired a 30A Ford relay (made in Canada incidentally) to actually take the current of the horn (see schematic below)

Remove the key chain from the remote and stick it inside the horn cap with double sided tape

Yes this is lo/hi-tech, cut a piece of broom handle to fit inside the housing and make it the right length so that it just touches the buttons when assembled.

Now you have a horn that works with the actual horn button on the wheel with no wires! So you can use that sleek hotrod steering shaft and as an added bonus sound the horn on unsuspecting spectators at car shows with your remote steering wheel.
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Two very useful solutions to problems I am facing in my Model A coupe build. Thanks guys!

 

Has anyone ever told you that you look like Reggie Kray???

 

The selector handle is pot metal and will easily polish up like chrome. Some rattle can clear will keep it nice for many many years.

 

I don't think Reggie had a labret piercing or ear rings

 

I have been looking for relay sockets like that. Do you have a photo of the bottom? Loved your wiring diagrams, What software did you use to draw that with?

Thanks

 

Hey Mustangsix
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <wunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <wontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->Thinking about you modification you did on your jag using this trailer adapter.
This modification is potentially dangerous and could cause a wiring fire.
The old prince of darkness module you replaced does the same thing as my relay solution. The high current for all the turn lamps are run through relays. This means the actual turn signal switch is only intended for low current to activate the relays. For you to have used this module you would have had to run the front turn bulbs through the turn signal switch giving it way more current than Lucas intended and he is called price of darkness for a reason.

 

The font looks like the default in old Autocad.

 

Awesome tech post!

 

I got a trailer light adapter like the one above, and am replacing a Signal Stat 7-wire T/S switch with a 3-wire switch. The car is wired with an EZ wire harness.

I'm not sure what to do with the wire that comes from the brake light switch to the existing t/s switch. Does it just go to the "Brake" wire on the "Car" side of the trailer adapter?

Thanks

 

Yes
and I did draw my schematics in Autocad

 

Freakin' Brilliant!

 

I like that I can bury and configure this any way I choose instead of the off the shelf options. Can 6v relays be easily aquired at radio shack for this and would they still function if converted to Positive ground system? I guess I will need to dig through my mouser electronics catalog. Also would grounding the signal switch pins (term 7 and 8) on both relays at the same time give you hazard flashers or a fire?

Bob

 

Hey Bloodyjack-
Do you have a photo of the back of your setup?
I'm trying to solder mine right now and had to resort to making pigtails to gang some of the connections together since the pins are so close back there. Looks like s**t.

I'll bet you did it neatly and I'd like to see how. Thanks!!

BTW the trailer adapter method didn't work for me either.

 

I built an adapter per Bloodyjack's instructions and have it working...sort of...:

The signals work as they should when you aren't pressing the brake pedal, but when you press the brake pedal you get brake lights but no more turn signal @ the rear. Let off the brake pedal and the signal comes back on. Kinda the opposite of how it is supposed to work.

So what obvious mistake did I make? I know it's going to turn out to be something silly.

 

Maybe I should start a new thread, but I'll try this once more.

Anybody good with electrical got a suggestion for me?