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Technical TOOLS, English Wheel, sneak peek.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by metalshapes, Apr 6, 2005.

  1. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 11,130

    metalshapes
    Member

    Most of the Frame is done.
    I have to do some welding to it yet, and I have to put the Rollers on.
    And I have to make a cradle for the ( lower ) anvil Wheel.
    What do you guys think of what I came up with for a adjuster?
    Its a Tailstock off a Lathe...
     
  2. kustombuilder
    Joined: Sep 18, 2002
    Posts: 7,750

    kustombuilder
    Member
    from Novi, MI

    VERY nice. i want t o build a big one too but i need to add on to the shop first.
     
  3. Slag Kustom
    Joined: May 10, 2004
    Posts: 4,312

    Slag Kustom
    Member

    looks killer there should be almost no flex with the frame. great idea for the ajuster.
     
  4. Unkl Ian
    Joined: Mar 29, 2001
    Posts: 13,509

    Unkl Ian

    Interesting ideas.


    You might find that having 2 casters on the front will get in the way,
    of your feet,when you are wheeling a panel.

    For that reason,I used a sigle fixed caster at the front,
    and a pair of double locking swivel casters at the back.
     
  5. Imwalkin
    Joined: Jul 29, 2004
    Posts: 544

    Imwalkin
    Member
    from Tucson, Az

    looks good!!
     
  6. I_be_moose
    Joined: Aug 29, 2004
    Posts: 676

    I_be_moose
    Member

    I agree with Ian. I also used a single wheel in front only I have fixed wheels in back and a lockable one in front.

    [​IMG]

    It is very stable yet by unlocking the front wheel I can move it with ease. I really love your idea of using the tail stock as the adjuster. Fine adjustment plenty of strength and is just plain Kool.

    Tim:cool:
     
  7. NICE DESIGN-I like its structure......
    If you dont mind ,Ill post a pic tomorrow of the one I built...Its together and working- I need to ask y'all how to hold it stationary though!:eek:
    I put my planishing hammer on mine at the rear.....Kenny
     
  8. Nice work Alex!
     
  9. fab32
    Joined: May 14, 2002
    Posts: 13,985

    fab32
    Member Emeritus

    I'm still gathering parts for the frame of mine. I am of the opinion that a single wheel under the forming wheels is the way to go. I've used a couple that had the wide based wheel arrangement and the wheels and frame got in the way of where you wanted to stand while wheeling. I'm planning a wide base at the rear with two heavy duty swivel locking casters and a single fixed caster under the wheel and anvil ***ys. I like the idea of incorporating other metal forming stations in one unit and I'm planning on doing so on mine. My planishing hammer however will be seperate as I've already built a sturdy base for it and it's working fine as an independent unit.


    Frank
     
  10. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 11,130

    metalshapes
    Member

    Thanks guys.
    I put the wheels on the front 'cause i thought it would be more stable if they were in line with the rollers.
    If it turns out I stub my toes on them, I can change it around with out too much trouble.
    I wasn't going to put a quick release on it, but a friend of mine called me and told me that would be a mistake.
    So I'll try and figure out how to put one in afterall, and maybe I'll see if I can beef the frame up some more for stiffness.
    I cant wait to start using this thing!
     
  11. cheaterslick
    Joined: Nov 2, 2003
    Posts: 807

    cheaterslick
    Member

    Where are you guys buying you anvils & wheels?
     
  12. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    DITTO. What about us Aussies?

    By the way very nice work guys
     
  13. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 11,130

    metalshapes
    Member

    I got the anvil wheels from Hoosier. ( the sell E Wheel and Planishing Hammer parts on Ebay )
    The top Wheel I got from my buddy Kevin ( Goldenboy on the HAMB ).
    It was a Drivewheel in a machine, he cut the serpentine grooves of and he made some adaptors to fit the spindle.
    He found the bearing carriers with the self aligning Bearings in them as well.
     
  14. When you make the cradle for the lower anvils, make it so you can adjust the axis angle without much difficulty. In fact, make it really really easy to adjust. One reason is that the axis of the two wheels must be parallel in normal opperation, and things to float around quite a bit. Number two is it makes it real easy to get into corners and edges of a panel if you can crank one side up and move the working area to one side of the wheels. Good work so far.
     
  15. attitudor
    Joined: Sep 28, 2004
    Posts: 3,134

    attitudor
    Member
    from Finland

    Wow, that one won´t sag. My own EW is also almost bombproof but the adjustment of the lower anvil is flexible and it ****s! I like your broadminded idea with the adjuster.

    Mika
     
  16. sawzall
    Joined: Jul 15, 2002
    Posts: 4,758

    sawzall
    Member

    good idea on the lower adjuster..

    I did the same... on my power hammer
    [​IMG]
     
  17. I bought My wheel and anvil[I'm saving for more]....from a place on Ebay -I believe their user was Oklahoma Hardware and Machine?
     
  18. Whats the best diameter for the top wheel?
     
  19. 30roadster
    Joined: Aug 19, 2003
    Posts: 1,793

    30roadster
    Member

  20. Spoon
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 273

    Spoon
    Member

  21. Deuce Rails
    Joined: Feb 1, 2002
    Posts: 2,016

    Deuce Rails
    Member

    Wow, that looks really well reinforced! Nice work.

    --Matt
     
  22. rjb
    Joined: Mar 13, 2004
    Posts: 247

    rjb
    Member
    from ICT KS

    I just finished building one as well, I'll get pics later, not as strong as yours but it was pretty cheap to build and has worked so far.

    I used Hooosier pattern as well, I personally believe their upper wheels are the best on the market. They use h13 tool steel instead of 4130 or 4140 like other companies (h13 is extremely rust resistant). Their bottom rollers are as good as any but most others are about the same.

    Great design on the frame!

    rjb
     
  23. Kevin Lee
    Joined: Nov 12, 2001
    Posts: 7,675

    Kevin Lee
    Super Moderator
    Staff Member

  24. HAD20z
    Joined: Apr 5, 2005
    Posts: 14

    HAD20z
    Member
    from houston

    i want to build one now....
     
  25. oldandkrusty
    Joined: Oct 8, 2002
    Posts: 2,141

    oldandkrusty
    Member

    Alex, your E-wheel looks absolutely spot-on. Don't forget to show us some of your work when you get it up and running.

    By the way, thanks again for your hospitality when I visited your area. It made my day! O&K
     
  26. Unkl Ian
    Joined: Mar 29, 2001
    Posts: 13,509

    Unkl Ian

    Sawzall: we need details on the power hammer.I knew you were planning one,but this is the first I've seen of it.




     
  27. Unkl Ian
    Joined: Mar 29, 2001
    Posts: 13,509

    Unkl Ian

  28. KCsledz
    Joined: Jun 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,333

    KCsledz
    Member

    Love it! I have to get back on the ball and gather my materials for a bench top version.
     
  29. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 11,130

    metalshapes
    Member

    I put some more braces in, to stiffen the Frame up some more...
    And I think I have figured out a way to put a Quick Release on it without to much redesign.
    And I can do it later, so I can start using it as soon as I have the main part done...
     
  30. John_Kelly
    Joined: Feb 19, 2003
    Posts: 535

    John_Kelly
    Member

    Looks great! It is actually nice to have a little flexibilty in the frame. Even though you have reinforced it, it will have flex. I ran mine without a quick release for a couple of years before I got the funds together for one. I rarely use the quick release unless I'm changing anvils. Usually just start the upper wheel rolling and let it **** the metal in. I've attached a before and after shot of a fender I'm building just to show what the e-wheel can do. Lumpy to smooth in about 15 minutes. The fender still needs more work, but it is getting there.

    John www.ghiaspecialties.com
     

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