If you were building a flat head which one would you look for. Don t need it now but would like to put one in my roadster some day. Is one more versitle than another What about ****** to use?
I would start with a CRACK FREE 49-53 block. The block gives you a few more options in the trans department. A little better design in water p***ages. Pre plan what you want to do with be and go for it. JMO
The block I'm doing had a crack or two, and one cylinder needed to be sleeved. I'll have over 3 grand into it by the time it's done. It's a 53 and I'm using a manual 3 speed and torque tube. I had 3 ******s, all with chipped teeth. I found a used but recently rebuilt one for 400 at a swap meet. I hope to be driving it the summer
If you were in Canada, I'd tell you to look in old farm trucks and find a 255 Merc engine, but they apparently are scarce down south. I have more luck finding uncracked 59-series engines than 8BA style. Most street rods used the '39 type transmission and a closed drive, so there's no real advantage to the '49-up engines in that regard. My AV8 ch***is is going together with a '39 trans and rear behind a 255 . '48 rear 'bones and shortened driveshaft and tube.
Any block that is not cracked is a good start. The 24 bolt vs. 21 bolts in head are better, 3 3/16 bore verses 3 1/16 is preferred by me. Doesn't matter if it is 8BA or 59ab, both are good. Study up on them. http://flatheadv8.org has alot of good information. Neal
IMHO the earlier pre 49 flatheads are far more visually appealing than the later ones. I am building a '46-59A but often day dream of building an early merc motor with an offset ground early merc crank. If you starting at the bottom of the learning curve a few good books are a must, of the several that I have the Ron Holleran book is my favorite for it's very straight forward approach. Lastly if you are starting from scratch don't be in a rush to purchase a project, take your time and if possible buy a complete, running motor with all the parts intact even if you plan a rebuild.
In my opinion. Flatheads are or were more of a belly ****on engine that the SBC ever was. So if you wanted to run a flathead and still have some Visual effect you should look for a 21 stud motor. Nobody is running a flathead for their astounding performance. So the 1/8 inch on the bore isn't going to kill you. And you will have something to talk about when all the other guys are comparing their belly ****ons.
I hear you. I just think they are cool looking. I would like to build a 40's style rod just to run around town in.
8 ba 49 to 53 in a car. 1948 & up in a truck.Cracks can be fixed.Easier to get parts,for easy ignition upgrade to be done.Much better valve train,that you won't have to upgrade.You have to with pre 48. Rod brgs are easier to obtain,con rods easier to obtain.trans options and bell housing many variables.Many made. Tig.
I think that flatheads make a hot rod look authentic, but I remember things before sbc's so my perspective is different than some of the guys on this board.The thing I like best about the flathead is that I regularly get remarks on how cool it sounds, and it's a mostly stock 8ba (no cam or internal racing components). With an electronic ignition it fires right up on 6 volts and has enough get up and go for an old dude like me. As someone mentioned, if you have one built you can expect to spend some cash but they are a unique part of hot rodding history that some still appreciate. Mac VanPelt, who was mentioned above is the go to guy if you have questions and the folks at United Engine Exchange in Wichita are very knowledgeable also. United sell complete rebuilt motors on E-Bay, but they are not cheap. Good Luck.
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