How to raise rpm redline on SBC?

One thing you must look out for is that if you run a stock block turning that many rpm's, it is possible that you will rip the webbing out of the block. This wont usually happen quickly but over time the stress will get it. I recommend a dart block and a GOOD bottom end. What yourwanting to do will cost some major money. If your going to go through this use good parts for dependability. Nothing worse than doing it twice

 

a high duration @ 50 cam (say something in the 280+ @ 50 & doesn't have to be crazy on the lift) and a good valve spring will get ya up where your talking.... the rest will let you know if it likes 8k....

my first experience with too much cam was in a 273 mopar...used a old stick cam from a 340 drag car. you know the type , sounds plain nasty at a idle and doesn't clear up till about 4500rpms or so.... that thing would turn 8200 easy. now that i had the bast mofo soundin' small block around , time for the strip......most pittyful terd ever. then the valve springs let me know that it wasn't the cam for me....

 

I can make one spin that fast but if I tell you then you will able to also.

Ask me on my death bed.

easiest way to make on spin 8K is to build a stock Z-28 302. It may not make the full 8 but it will be close.

 

I'm not gping to add any tech suggestions to this thread as most of it has been touched on. My suggestion is to talk to a quality engine builder who has success building these things. Talk to the comp eliminator guys and see what's available used or no longer being used. It would be cheaper to buy a complete engine that is no longer competetive than to try and piece one together. Bottom line, anything that spins over 8,000 is going to be stupid expensive to build and will DEMAND regular and frequent maintenance and likely repair. You never mentioned what the application was, but it has to be said that these high RPM engines do not make a lot of power in low RPM ranges and do not like sustained runs outside of their power band. You run the risk of valve spring and push rod failures. Not good when you are using exotic parts required for high RPM application.

On the other hand, a small block Ford, Chevy or Buick (headed SBC) singing at 10,000 rpm is the best sound in the world.

 

Why????????

 

On your Tac is a knob coming out the front. Turn it clockwise until the pointer is at 10,000 or where ever you want it. There Done!!

 

My opinion also. They say the pressure,Forces, whatever double every 1000 rpm . So at 6000 you can double the pressure on the parts ,double it again at 7000, double again at 8000, double again, well you understand it is about 3000 times more at 10,000 as at 3000. Can you build something to withstand that,sure if money is no object. My guess would be a 10,000 smallblock that runs that number often would cost in the $25,000 area.Anyone with some common sense can build a engine for probably less than 1/4 of that will kick the rpm monster in the ditch every day. How often do you think you will run one at that rpm. It's like a drug rush to some people ,and just as expensive.
Think about this ,if small cubic inch engines were the hot setup we would see 288 cu.in. stuff in Pro Stock. THe reason the mountain motor guys are building 700 inch stuff is because with the technology we have and the $$ spent cubic inches is king.
You can not imagine the $$$ these comp. eliminator guys put in their stuff ( Corvair Rods )to get that kind of rpm. And they are not very reliable or last very long at that stage. It's fun to impress everyone with that kind of talk but the reality is different.

 

Joe is actually right here and unless the average person is in there looking at your tach they really can't tell if you are spinning 7 or 10.

 

The first question before an appropriate answer can be formulated is what are you going to do with it. A drag motor spinning that high of RPM is only for a few seconds. A short track motor will be there for a short period of time but is on and off that rpm and is really hard on rods and cranks. A Superspeedway motor has to live there for extended periods of time.
A street motor - no practical reason in hell to go there.

Or are you just being hypothetical, in which case you need to buy as many books on building race motors and study - there is no simple answer that can go into enough detail here.

 

How many of you guys have seen what happens when a SBC comes apart at those RPM's?

Horror and carnage like you wouldn't believe, and I've even seen a driver with a piece of shrapnel in his foot!

 

Darryl
Anything that comes apart at the speed is horror and carnage I'm afraid.

Love the sound of a high winding engine and like you I hate to see the aftermath of one that didn't hold together.

 

Just set the tach switch to 4 or 6. Other than that, why?

 

I wonder though, would an opposed-engine (like a vw or Porsche) be more successful at this than a V? Seems like some forces would be balanced out better

 

been there done it, shift at 9800, lights 10200-10500 rpm 396 small block chevy, just bring your check book the big one and not 15,000 try 2x I will sell you one 7:05 187.5 mph
JR fuel
ps iron heads iron block

 

The motor in my avatar would ping the stop on the 8k tach if you just punched the gas in park.

But no way would I want to stay there. There would be pieces flying.

When winding it out going through the gears I never typically went over 6k for fear that I would blow it up (dad would have killed me).

'70 LT1 Block & Crank
461 heads w/2.05 intake valves
Forged aluminum rods & pistons
292 Comp Cam w/Hyd Lifters
1.6:1 Crane Cams Roller Rockers
2 4bbl Holley 600's w/vac secondaries

 

most of your posts are hypothetical, after reading the responses I feel like I have been in a sociology experiment.

 

In the walmart auto section, they sell some fuel additive that will allow you to rev to ten grand and higher all while increasing mileage and cleaning your fuel system.

 

I had a buddy that had one just like this,,a large journal 327.
It was the baddest small block I ever saw on the street.
This engine would turn 8 grand under power through 3rd gear with the mufflers on.
With the mufflers off ,,it would go almost to 9 thousand,,this was a scary bastard!

It was: 350 4 bolt main block,,,327 steel large journal crank
factory rods been gone through,,new ARP bolts
Heavy TRW pistons,,13 to 1,,cut down to 11.5
everything balanced,,,,roller rockers
69 Z28 heads,,2.02-1.60,,completely ported
doudle bar stud girdle,,the works
Cam was a Comp. solid,,I think .588 lift
Weiand Power Ram intake,,Holley 850
other parts that I cant remember?

All this was attached to a Doug Nash competiton 5 speed,,and a Dana 60 rear,,bolt on ladder bars and other aids.

This was the most evil small block car I ever sat my ass down in,,,and my friend,,( Buddy),,was not afraid to use it.
It is a 69 Camaro,,and he still has it.
We first put that engine together back in 86 ,,and it was never torn down for about 4 years,,it caught pure hell,,I still can't believe it held together that long.
After several years he finally went through it,,and updated some stuff to newer better parts.
It routinely went to 8000 plus,,never any problems,,I swear!
He tore up some other parts,,but not an engine.

It can be done,,and with a whole lot of factory parts.


Tommy

 

Mainly i was asking for several unrelated, yet related reasons:

1) Curiosity/mental wanking

2) So i don't forget about the concept, therefore i thought i would "throw" it up here.

3) i'm (always) searching for cheap power---the "magic bullet." I.e., nitrous, turbo, supercharging etc.
i wanted to investigate more; i see forumula 1 engines making 1000hp with only 90 cid. They turn about 19,000 rpm.
i kinda suspected it would not be cheap.

Pretyy much agree.

P.S. the application would have been drag. Target weight 2500 lbs.

 

I ran a 331 in a c/sm in 1973 ran 8000 through the lights only changed the rings when the car started to run slower, just keep the rotating weight down

 

it's cheaper and easier to put a bigger motor and run the same speed with less rpm unless you're restricted by class rules

 

I completely agree with EMS CUSTOMER SERVICE. I had a 383 stroker could turn 8000 rpm, was awesome for a $9000 engine. I just built a 355 turns 6800 rpm cost half as much and is SCARY fast. bottom line is high rpms aren't neccesarily higher horsepower.

 

i have a sbc that "I" build that can, will and does spin to 8k every shift.

*world sportsman 2 heads hogged out to 2.08 intake valves and decked down to 58cc chambers, runners got a little dress up too
*trw forged pop up pistons
*stock 350 forged crank
*manley sportmaster rods
*comp big mother thumpur cam
*comp 1.6-1 gold rockers
*deamon 650cfm carb
*performer rpm intake

i believe the engine is around 12.5-1 or so
i run av gas in it which is 100 octane.
i have 3-4k into the motor but i had been collecting parts for 5 years or so. i dont know what it will pull down on a dyno but i do know it is way too much power for a fearless 23yr old.

 

X2...built a "junkyard 383" had about $2000 in it abused the he'll out of it. It lasted about 2 months street and strip and that's exactly what happened crank with mains and all attatched fell out the bottom.

 

Unless you spend your kids' college money (all of it) to build the engine, I want to be there with a camera (with a long telephoto lens so I don't get hit by flying parts) to get a picture of the carnage. But good luck, just don't go broke trying! OH, I almost forgot the most important thing. Get someone you don't like (really don't like I mean) to drive the car. When you have them sign the waiver, have a carbon below with a beneficiary ammendment to their life insurance form. Then maybe you'll have enough money to build one that WILL do 10,000 and hold together!

 

Yep, I feel there is WAY more to this guy. Look at the avatar of his, it's a cartoon shrink(therapist). And nickname. And other post's.

 

Cheap power? Don't look to F1 for inspiration. Cadillac 500 with a couple of junk yard turbos. Thats what I'd build for cheap fun if your looking for massive gobbs of power.

 

X2...I'm a racer w/an 800+hp sbc and spinnin one 8,000+ rpm becomes a high maintainence job. Your mention of 10,000 rpm is waaay over the top however most Comp motors spin that high and are only good for 15-20 passes. Your request is simply not practical for a street motor as low rpm ideling kills the valvetrain. $12-14,000 will get you <8,000 rpm. $20-25k will buy you >9,000 rpm. $30k+ will buy you 10,000 rpm.
Good luck !!

 

If you want to impress the chicks just build a blown 350 to spin 6500 rpm. It would cost less, be drivable, and more then compensate for any physical deficencies anyone might be suffering from if you know what I mean

 

Get a cheap 4 cylinder tack, and maybe you can fool it to read 8000 at 4000? Otherwise, cubic money helps.