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Flathead turns!!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by hell_fish_65, Apr 8, 2005.

  1. hell_fish_65
    Joined: Aug 12, 2004
    Posts: 1,165

    hell_fish_65
    Member
    from Elgin TX

    Just wanted to gloat a bit. While hanging out with gr***_hopper last night I started playing with the 59AB I have at his shop. When we pulled it, it was stuck. We oiled it up and put it to the side. I started to try to turn stuff and got the generator turning and decided to try the crank and it turned free. This is cool. The engine was dropped in the car, we removed it from, in the 70's and only about 45 minutes of run time. The install was never finished and has sat for many years(about 30 I guess). I need to drop the pan and look in there. I’m guessing a pair of new water pumps, a oil pump and a rebuilt a 97 or two and it should run. The bores are clean and I am cheap.

    Is there any thing I can run in the water p***ages to remove rust flake?
     
  2. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Do a search on Rust-Solve, and for a discussion of it on Ahooga.com A guy there cleaned out an ***embled Model A engine's water jackets with the stuff, and posted some really impressive pictures of the before and after. I bought enough of the mix to fill a garbage can on with solution on the strength of this, and will soon be immersing a really crust 59Z block I found (in my own ba*****t, actually...). I'll report as soon as I get everything set up for the big dip. This stugg claims not to have the problems of acid. Has anyone here used the stuff??
     
  3. BillyB
    Joined: Mar 11, 2004
    Posts: 35

    BillyB
    Member

    Is there any thing I can run in the water p***ages to remove rust flake?[/QUOTE]

    One thing I did was to hang my 8BA block by my engine hoist - front of the block to the top. Took the garden hose with a spray which had a rubber tip, and blew water in the top water p***age - rubber tip kinna sealed it to each p***age hole. Man did allot of junk come out the bottom. I did this for every water p***age hole in the block. Then made a bunch of s****ing devices from coat hangars, metal dowel rods, anything I had laying around. Bent and shaped as necessary and using a flashlight, I s****e around each cylinder and along the bottom of the block. With a little creative effort you can reach around almost all cylinders top and bottom. Kept flushing the block periodically with the hose and more yuk kept coming out. Took my time (about a couple hours) and really got a bunch out. May not be the best method but its cheap (only costs water) and I know I remover the worst of the rust and junk from the jacket. Just be carefull how you suspend it as you end up swinging the block around a little and tilting it to get all the water and junk to run out. Steel toed shoes are probably a bonus just in case. Hope this helps - seems to have worked for me. Newbie Bill
     
  4. alittle1
    Joined: Feb 26, 2005
    Posts: 312

    alittle1
    Member

    You can use an acid bath to clean the entire engine block, or use a series of water hoses to make a 'closed loop' system and use the water pump driven by a V-belt to a small electric motor to circulate the acid solution through the water p***ages, and then repeat on the other side of the engine. Muratic is a mild acid, or use a diluted solution of phosphoric acid with a dab on dish soap to clean out any oils that are present. Make sure to flush the engine two or three times completely after using the acid. Blow out the ngine with air and spray some WD40 to cover the metal surface.

    OR, take the block to an engine shop and have them 'boil' the block out.
     
  5. hell_fish_65
    Joined: Aug 12, 2004
    Posts: 1,165

    hell_fish_65
    Member
    from Elgin TX

    The plan is to not rebuild, so taking the block to a shop will not work.
     

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