Rivet Removal - Is there a right way?

I'm working on tearing down my Model A frame prior to blasting and modifying.

Why am I blowing it apart? Well, it needs a new front crossmember and I figure if I get it that far apart, I might as well take it the rest of the way apart and do it right and get ALL the rust, not just what I can see.

I've been having one hell of a time removing the rivets on just the tabs I don't need (hood latch, etc.) and I can only imagine what getting the rivets out of the crossmembers is going to be like.

Is there a right way? An easier way?

I don't mind hard monotonous work, that's part of the fun. But I also believe what Scrooge McDuck said, "Work smarter, not harder."

Thanks guys.

 

I would grind the head off and knock them out worked for me!

 

I usually drill rivets with a small drill bit first, then use a larger to open them up. The heads usually come off with the larger bit, then drive the remaining rivet through.
But if you can't get at them with a drill, then I grind them off and punch them out.

 

I usually cut an x into the head with a cut-off wheel then knock it off with a chisel following with punching it out. Happens a lot faster than it sounds. I haven't had much distortion of the holes this way either.

 

I suppose I should ammend my statement.
That's EXACTLY what I have been doing... but knocking them out it the part that doesn't seem to be working.

I'm using a large drift and a 3 lb hammer to NO AFFECT whatsoever... other than threatening to push my frame right off the bucks.

Maybe I'm just getting some hard rivets, but they almost seem like they are welded rather than just pinched.

... I haven't tried the x and chisel method though.

 

I've ground the head flat and drilled them out, but you need a big drill, or hammer drill.
Not fun but it works

 

Knock the heads off and run a small drill through the center so they will collapse per say when you drive them out.

WOW i guess i type slow!

 

Yeah, should have figured you knew what you were doing. I forgot to mention I use an air hammer with a nice bit that I have acquired. If you give the surrounding area a little heat that may help, just not too much of course.

 

Center punch each rivet head, then drill each head in steps until just under the rivet shank diameter. Pop rivet head off with chizel, then use a punch to remove the rivet shank. This way, there are no extra grind marks, etc., and the hole in each part is not "wallered out". vic Wow! I'm slow!

 

That's why I drill the hole first, so it relieves the shank of the rivet and lets it give a bit when you drive it out.

 

When your punching them out make sure you have a buddy holding some weight (dolly or another hammer) behind where you are hitting, just to stop the frame from flexing.
I can just see you bouncing the frame off the dollys!
Just my 2c.

 

Grinder, air chisle, drill, cursing, swearing and a BFH. Basically whatever it takes.

 

You're losing a lot of energy, you need to find a way to clamp down the frame, if the frame is rigid the force you are directing to the rivet will do just that, instead of letting the looseness of the frame spring it back at you.
Maybe put a stand or large block directly under where you are hammering.

 

Thanks for the tips guys! I will drill the center out... seems like the best way and I'd like to avoid excess heat if I can help it...
I've been looking for an excuse to pick up a hammer drill.

 

When I did mine I ground the heads off, drilled an 1/8" pilot hole, then leaned on the ****er hard with an air hammer. Was a couple years ago but I think they all came out on the first try..

 

I use an air hammer with the pointed bit. Works great and is a whole lot easier than wailing on it with a 3# hammer. You can buy one from HF for less than $15. Oh, get some ear muffs while you're at it.

 

Air hammer all the way!! Grind off the heads and hit em with the air hammer. I took tons of em out of my 37 chevy that way. I tried drilling but it was a PITA.

 

I tried a number of ways suggested on my 56 chevy truck. I settled on plasma cutter to get started and pneumatic hammer to finish. I've taken out about 20 rivets like this removing suspension brackets.

 

as a certified aircraft sheet metal machanic i can say the "correct way" to remove rivets (automotive and aircraft are pretty much the same) is to drill through the center of the head (center punch first if you dont have sharp bits or a steady hand) with a bit the size of the rivet hole. then once you drill through only the head either pop it off with a punch (lever motion)or knock the weakened head off with a chisle. then just punch the shank through with a punch. simple as that. if done right there is no damage to the surrounding structure or hole itself.

 

i grind the heads off them, drill most of the way through with a bit just slightly smaller than the hole then drive it out with a BFH (air hammer would be easier) most of them come out pretty easy

 

Not what I usually do but his method will give the best results in the end.

I usually use my air chisel to knock the head off but that often leaves more work to clean up than if I had done it another way.

 

The key is not to drill all the way through but far enough to get through the frame. Use a punch in the bottom of the hole so you don't swedge the rivet and bind it in the hole.

Buy good split point drill bits and plenty of them. It makes life much easier.

 

I never knew there was such a science to it. Thanks again guys. I'm kind of thinking about testing each method... lord knows there's enough rivets that need to go!

 

I did the same. I used the chisel bit to knock off the heads first, then the punch shaped bit to push them through. Goes pretty quick. Just need to be careful with the chisel bit, if you aren't on there right you can cut into your frame. And yes...ear plugs are needed.

 

I was a structural maintenance sheet metal worker in the air force all i did was rivet work on aircraft the beat way for removal is to step drill the head without exceeding the diameter of the rivet shaft size, and once you get just through the head pop it off with a punch or chisel and then punch the remaining rivet out

 

all good advise, no easy way to remove rivets,just a lot of work.

 

Yes. And I've done that with rusted/stuck round-head (carriage) bolts. Works great!

 

Gigantor
I have used a little heat on some that were real stubborn. They do get some rust/oxidation in there after 70 or 80 years. We're not talking red hot here, just enough to break the cossosion up a little. You can get them hot enough to make a difference with Butane or MAP gas, like a plumber or refrigeration man uses.

Uh that would be after the removal of the head of course.

 

I read this thread before taking out 14 rivets out of the rear crossmember of my 32 frame. Cross cut the head and hit the head with an air hammer. Then drilled part way through with a 3/8 drill bit and then hit them with the punch in the air hammer and they popped right out. Secret seems to be to drill deep enough to relieve the pressure.

 

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