Hi Guys just wondering if anyone has used thread locker on their header bolts. Lock***e blue is what I was thinking. I do have the wire type locking header bolts but I do know that the wire and the hole in the bolt head can be a bear to get aligned sometimes. I should also mention the is the final install after mock up so I don't want to have to deal with loose bolts down the road.
I like the split lock header bolts. Percy's makes a split lock bolt that has a set screw in the middle that you tighten and it expands the bolt in your head to lock it in place. I have used these for years and they never back out and provide extra leak proof insurance. In my opinion this is a much better solution than threadlocker. Summit carries them in stainless polished or chromoly black oxide with 12pt heads. Here's a link to one: http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/Percys-High-Performance/?keyword=header+bolts&page=1
Dont use loc***e. I just installed a set of headers bolts on my car from Stage 8. So far working great. Never seize on bolts only. Www.stage8.com
72ssguy I should also mention that the headers are lime fires from sanderson and there are clearance issues I had to go to socket head in order to tighten the bolts, 12 point will not work in my situation but I did check out your link thanks.
Exactly. Copper coat or never seize or your favorite anti-seize is what you use. You will need to check them periodically. That's part of running headers. I stud mount mine if I can. I like it a lot better, studs and high collar split washers like you use with an allen bolt seems to work best for me. I have in the past where I can't stud mount them I have used allen bolts with the head turned down and high collar split washers. I find that allen bolts are easier to get at and tighten. But in most applications you will have to turn the head down a little bit. If you don't have access to a lath you can do it in a belt sander if you are a little careful. Another trick that I have learned over the years is that it helps to support the headers. I'm guessing that it would be a problem with lakes but on a header like a fender well ot a long tube under the ch***is you can put a muffler hanger right at the end of the collector. it serves two purposes, number one it helps you to not crack the header tubes and number two it helps them not to vibrate the header bolts loose.
It takes a while for the header gaskets to get wrapped around all the imperfections and actually "take a set". Until this time you need to keep tightening the header bolts, somewhat gently at first, progressing to firmer as time and heat cycles occur. Be patient & diligent and you will be rewarded with a good seal.
I try to stay away from header gaskets... After I started using plain ol' Fel-Pro exhaust manifold gaskets with headers, the leaking problems stopped!
Due to clearence problems I bought a set of blokck hugger headers from Sanderson for the 350SBC in my '40 Chevy sedan. Big surprise is that they do not use gaskets but reccommend a bead of black high temp RTV. Instructions say 1/8" bead in the ***igned area and let it cure overnight. Installed next day and torqued them to 20 inch pounds and so far no leaks or complaints.
With Sanderson they say not to use header gaskets at all. Permatex high temp black is what they say. Apparently I am to put a bead all around the raised flange on the header and wait around 1/2 to 3/4 of an hour before mounting them. This is their claim to fame so I guess I will see. I will use the anti seize compound on the bolts.
aaggie we must have been responding at the same time. I did not read over night but that sounds even better.
Loc***e will not handle the heat and is ineffective on header bolts. This is the coolest thing I have seen in header bolts in a long time - http://totalloc.com/ they really work!!
I used Rol gaskets on my Sanderson Limefires and have never had a leak and no need to tighten bolts after initial burn-in. Think I saw where the NASCAR guys were using them so that was good enough for me. http://www.rolmfg.com/gasket.htm
I do have the wire type locking header bolts but I do know that the wire and the hole in the bolt head can be a bear to get aligned sometimes. " Are your bolt heads drilled for safety wire like these? Forget about aligning them and use stainless safety wire with a positive tie, bolt to bolt and over the pipe, like aircraft fasteners. Tom S. in Tn.
Easy way to turn down allen type bolt heads if you don´t have a lathe is put bolt on your drill press .Let it spin and use your angle grinder to grind that heat to desired size. And one trick we use in heavy duty trucks on exhaust side. If you have a room , put small piece of tubing under the bolt , it takes a heat expansion in itself and keeps bolt tight. That cured my loose bolt blues http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif Ari
Yes those are the ones. I was figuing that is what I was going to have to do I have wire and a twister thanks for the input guys.
Had better luck with Fel-Pro than header gaskets. A dab of ARP thread sealer and torque . Warm up ,cool down re-torque and off to the rodeo !
i cant see wireing the bolts, you will have to remove the wire just to snug them up a little, i have a box end wrench that i have ground thin so it will slip onto a bolt in a tight spot, works in spots where an allen head bolts will not.
Here are a couple links I found real quick that might get you started. http://www.tpub.com/content/aviation/14014/css/14014_116.htm http://www.customcl***ictrucks.com/techarticles/1003cct_how_to_safety_wire/photo_01.html If safety is a requirement, or just detail oriented, find yourself any copy of an Airframe & Powerplant Mechanics Handbook. A lot of good techniques with regard to welding, hardware fasteners, and etc., that can be used anywhere critical, like on flywheels, fabricating tubing frame structures, high pressure fluid lines, and much more. All aluminum fabrication has basis in the aircraft industry, and military the first. After a while, you will discover the proper braid when safety wiring and probably find small jobs done easier by hand without the special pliers. And just for the record, bolts can be lightly snugged after safetying. You just can't back them off when safetied in the proper positive direction. Call me **** if you wish, but I was taught fabrication from fellows that were WWII aircraft trained. Tom S. in Tn.
Header gaskets are junk, that's why you have to keep tightening them. I just flat file, or make sure a set of headers is fairly true, and use a bead of high temp RTV, then put them on the engine. I'm really bad about never checking header bolts, and I haven't lost any yet, or had any leaks. Before the RTV, I used to use the exhaust manifold gaskets as Deuces suggested, they don't compress as much, or burn out as bad.
#18 addenum; If you are using thick (Mr. Gasket) asbestos type gaskets, we always soaked them overnight in H2O first to make them as pliable as possible. I concur about no loc***e in extreme heat but use anti seize instead. Install, and tighten frequently during the run-in period. Then, (permanently) safety all the bolts after they have taken their final set and unable to snug further. Sorry......... but I missed a couple points we have experienced Tom S.
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