I need some help making a decision. As you may or may not know, I bought a 50 3100 that has a camaro clip welded on. I have only the cab left to remove to get it to the frame and then was going to have it blasted. I need to measure it to ensure the clip is welded on straight and then, regardless, clean up the weld job that was previously done. Afterwards, rebuild the front suspension as far as rubber/joints, etc. and add springs and shocks. Lastly, I need to fab up a front crossmember to properly bolt the front end/radiator support to the frame as opposed to how it is now, which is just resting on some notches cut out of the camaro clip. Knowing the camaro front end is a little too wide and the cost ***ociated with the narrowed control arms, plus all the other costs, I thought I ought to look around at other options and I came across a frame for a truck that is all stock, except it has the mII crossmember welded in, is fully boxed, and has already been blasted and painted. It has the park brake bar still attached, which the one on my truck was cut out, most likely for clearance reasons. It does not have a trans crossmember but I think those are bolted in, so I should be able to swap mine over or fab up a new one. The guy also said he bought a pinto clip and stripped all the parts off that will bolt up to the m2 member and said he will throw it all in. Keeping in mind if I want it done anytimme soon I will have to pay someone to do the welding or at least go buy a welder and learn, plus pay to have it stripped, bust my *** to paint it, figure out how to mount the front end, blah blah. The guy is asking a grand for the frame, I am about ready to commit to it but just need some re***urance I am making a good decision, or tell me I am an idiot. Thanks....
...sounds like a better frame than you have, if the front susp. x-member is installed correctly, correct wheelbase, caster, etc. Ch***is work is not a place for anyone to be practicing welding.
See, this is why I come here. I wouldnt have even thought twice about those measurements. I, of course, am ***uming it was done right if it was going to be used to build a truck, but I need to check that out. Now, since my truck is hacked, I have nothing to campare to, so where would I find out what/how to measure and what should I see as far as those measurements are concerned. Better look around...
It sounds as though the guy has done a lot of the hard work for you. The first thing I would ask is how much he added to the wheelbase. If he says he added nothing p*** on the deal. It's Probably the reason he is selling it. Anytime you put an independent suspension in a straight axle car you always have to add an inch to wheelbase, or it will look foolish. If he says he added an inch, it is time to do some tape measure work. Do a length check, and an x check. On a 60 year old ch***is a quarter inch is good and an eigth inch is perfect. I once had an old frame man tell me "True to 'er self, an' square from side to side, an' she'll line." It's a bit arcaine, but honestly that's about all you need to go down the road in a strait line. Hope this helps.
So just some quick checks show the wheel base to be 116. If I remember right 118 is what you go for to center the rear axle in the wheel well. So how do I measure for wheel base if there is no rear axle, do I just mark the spotdead center of the leaf mounts, go from there to the center of the ifs crossmember? And excuse even more ignorance, but what is an X check? I mean, I think you mean measuring from RR to LF and LR to RF and making sure they are the same to check square, but just want to be sure.
Just one more check you should look at... measure back from the front spring shackle hole 18 1/8" this should be the c/L of you cross member...this will make sure your wheels are centered in the opening..
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