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Painting steel wheels

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by iceokie, Apr 6, 2011.

  1. iceokie
    Joined: Sep 29, 2010
    Posts: 74

    iceokie
    Member

    So I'm doing the whole traditional thing in my build. Doing it all myself. Instead of powder-coating my new steelies as I have done in the past I painted them.

    Two coats of primer and two coats DuPont Chromax. Are two good top coats enough for wheels? I know wheels take a pounding and want them to last. They're satin finish but I could still hit them with a satin clearcoat. Opinions?
     
  2. Noland
    Joined: Oct 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,235

    Noland
    Member

    just put on enough color to get it looking uniform, then maybe an extra coat for good measures. more paints not always better
     
  3. cide1
    Joined: Apr 8, 2010
    Posts: 42

    cide1
    Member

    I don't know the answer, but I'm about to paint some wheels as well, so I'm interested.

    Subscribed.
     
  4. aerocolor
    Joined: Oct 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,204

    aerocolor
    Member
    from dayton

    Too much paint/clear will only chip larger when getting the hubcaps off or applying wheel weights. The lugnuts take their toll on wheels too.

    Enough paint to cover then stop.
    Also use a primer that isn`t so different from wheel color to show up bigtime when the chips happen. Primers can be tinted.
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2011
  5. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,618

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Satin paint for wheels...hmmm. I don't satin paint wheels, inner fender wells, firewalls, or underpinnings. Pet peeve was when a customer would bring a 'nicely detailed' car in, but engine or ****** had an oil leak:
    O.K., fix the problem, clean up the oil stains. (the 'shiny' places on the satin paint!)
    Road tar, oil, etc. on wheels is terrible to remove. Satin black on wheels is a dirt magnet, and looks like Robocop.
    Paint with a sheen cleans up easy, and resists stains. Looks sharp, detailed.
    A satin clear overcoat would seal it, but I don't think it ever looks 'finished'.
    If I drove something with satin paint, I'd wear kevlar.
     
  6. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,927

    squirrel
    Member

    I can get a nice satin finish by using a spray can of gloss paint
     
  7. Clik
    Joined: Jul 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,969

    Clik
    Member

    I painted a trailer recently with Ch***is Saver. The ramp was painted with Rustoleum. I accidently dripped some liquid electrical tape on both. It didn't hurt the Ch***is Saver one bit but ate the Rustoleum.
     
  8. iceokie
    Joined: Sep 29, 2010
    Posts: 74

    iceokie
    Member

    that's funny.

    I'm satin painting the body as well, so I don't want the wheels to shiny. I know the drips and splatters are hell on satin finishes, but its the look I want. In 20 years they'll call it patina. :)
     
  9. Moondog13
    Joined: Sep 7, 2006
    Posts: 805

    Moondog13
    Member

    I did a coat of Rustoleum primer and a coat to cover of Rustoleum Black (not flat though) on the stock steelies in my Impala about a year ago and they're holding up just fine. She's my daily too! Just make sure to take your time and clean them up real good before you paint. :D
     
  10. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,586

    117harv
    Member


    X2...yes, just enough to cover as more makes thicker chips. I will use the same color or close, primer tip next time i do some, thanks.
     
  11. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,927

    squirrel
    Member

    My 55 was "satin" (two tone primer) for 14 years, I finally painted it. I would have painted it sooner but I'm naturally lazy. It felt good to sand all those years of patina right off the car.

    Seriously, I'd paint the wheels glossy. And seriously, I'd use a spray can. I've done it many times over the years.
     
  12. No patina is when you put a good paint job on it then neglect it for 20 years. :rolleyes:

    I probably wouldn't paint my wheels satin unless I was building a trailer queen. But in answer to your question you only need enough paint on your wheels to color them. Once that's done its overkill and thick paint is not necessarily your best option.

    Now if you were doing the body in gloss with laquer I would say you need a few more coats and wet sand every third then buff the hell out of it but you are not doing the body in laquer so that is an entirely different story.
     
  13. FiddyFour
    Joined: Dec 31, 2004
    Posts: 9,024

    FiddyFour
    Member

    in 20 years, they'll call it rusty...

    patina should rhyme with ******, dontcha think?
     
  14. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,618

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Depends on how you pronounce "******"...There are alternate words for it. (patina!)
     
  15. Just painted some trailer wheels with POR products. Man am I impressed!!!! Sandblasted the wheels, 1-2 coats of por15 waited for them to dry up, (several days) then 2 coats of hardnose by por. From what I gathered, hardnose has the UV protectant added into it where the por15 don't, the por15 is the rust protective stuff. Once they were dry you can hit them with a 3lb. hammer and not knock the finish off.
    I am so impressed with this product I am considering coating the frame on my 36 pickup with it, por the entire frame (inside out/ top bottom) and hardnosing the visible exterior with Hardnose. You guys got any thoughts? Maybe I'm just overly impressed. A lot less expensive than powder coating, and by my opinion tougher!

    Fenderless
     
  16. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,586

    117harv
    Member

    What does it look like, texture and color:rolleyes: thanks.
     
  17. FiddyFour
    Joined: Dec 31, 2004
    Posts: 9,024

    FiddyFour
    Member


    unless POR15 has changed, it wont adhere to a completely clean and rust free surface.

    you might have troubles down the road with those wheels
     
  18. FiddyFour
    Joined: Dec 31, 2004
    Posts: 9,024

    FiddyFour
    Member

  19. If you find patina down there best find a different girl friend. :eek:
     
  20. Moondog13
    Joined: Sep 7, 2006
    Posts: 805

    Moondog13
    Member

    Hahahahah! That's funny right there. :D
     
  21. FiddyFour
    Joined: Dec 31, 2004
    Posts: 9,024

    FiddyFour
    Member

    you'se aint a kiddin friend.
     
  22. overspray
    Joined: Jan 14, 2003
    Posts: 1,447

    overspray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    LOVE IT!!

    Here's a wheel painting demo I did with my son. He bought some spraycan wheel color for the wheels on his Camaro and I thought it was a good opportunity to help school him and p*** on the info.


    Wheel painting with videos.

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=354215
     
  23. Jroc0801
    Joined: Dec 23, 2010
    Posts: 76

    Jroc0801
    Member
    from Katy Tx

    Just powder coat them u don't want rust stains on ur whitewalls


    Lifes a ***** CHOP IT !!!!
     
  24. FiddyFour
    Joined: Dec 31, 2004
    Posts: 9,024

    FiddyFour
    Member


    i've run rusty wheels with whitewalls, and never had a rust streak on them... just gotta hit em with a soapy brush once an a while
     
  25. I get rust stains in my drawers but never on my whitewalls. That lumpy rust is the worse. :p
     
    Do it Over likes this.
  26. FiddyFour
    Joined: Dec 31, 2004
    Posts: 9,024

    FiddyFour
    Member

    :eek::p

    i knew there was a reason i loved you dude! :cool:
     
  27. awesome582
    Joined: Mar 28, 2011
    Posts: 18

    awesome582
    Member
    from Iowa

    POR15 breaks down in sunlight, it takes a long time but it does break down and start fading away
     

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