Usually I file this kind of stuff under the "snake oil' category, but POR-15 seems to do what they say. One side of my 39 has a good drip rail, the driver side......not so good. It is pretty evident that some Georgia pine needles or other trash was trapped in the rail and held moisture. There's about an 18" section that had some rot in the bottom, other places on the sides. I was able to weld some sections in for the sides, but the bottom is almost impossible to get to. I DID NOT want to replace the whole rail. Anyway, I used some duct tape to form a dam for under the rail. I cut some strips of metal and laid them in where the rot was. Then I used paper towels to form dams at either end of the rusty area. Out of the shop fridge comes the POR-15 and I poured it into the makeshift mold of the drip rail. Before it dried, I pulled the paper towel plugs out and let the POR-15 flow. It did such a good job I poured POR-15 into both sides of the drip rails. It left them slick and ready for the Pebble Beach concours, where my car will be displayed the same year as they get an ice maker in hell. Now a little glass bondo on the bottom side and we're on to the next challenge. By the way, I'm a pretty fair sheet metal welder as I do it on a part time basis. I can weld to thin metal and I can even weld to rust, but I can't weld to rusty thin metal. Add POR-15 to the bondo, baling wire and duct tape list. I'm packing my suitecase with these and a pair of vice grips and going to Japan now to fix their reactor.
yup ....good stuff....you should try their engine paint and manifold paints....equally impressive......whid
Ice maker in Hell- that got me. A pretty darn good idea with the POR-15. Some will hate it, but not me.
my buddys 39 was the same way it was already blasted, so we just layed up some fiber glass in them worked great
about the duct tape... I used masking tape on the threads of the bolts on the front suspension. then painted over them. fast forward 8 months, what a bitch to get it off!!! i'm sure your tape and por-15 will work!
Hey, Where is Red Green these days? We need him now more than ever. It's been years since i saw that show. Used to have me rolling on the floor. Loved the time he made a boat out of 2 liter soda bottles and Duct Tape.- a MAN'S tool. The engine was too heavy though. Still laugh thinking about it. If you aint good looking at least be handy. I used KWIK POLY as a filler for rotten wood and metal on a Model A. It's a 2 part liquid that you can add a powder to and thicken. I think it could fix the cracks on that Japanese reactor too. CTFordGuy
that's roddin'. make it work; make it last; make it again later. i was building an O/T car and the guys on that support website LOVED POR-15. these particular cars don't HAVE any aftermarket sheetmetal; shit, they don't have aftermarket ANYTHING non-mechanical. the guys would root out rust from a bad joint and stuff screen wire in the hole, then pour POR-15 on it, and brush it around. oddly enough, the patches stayed put for LONG periods of time. i've seen glass cloth laid down with it; trim holes covered that way. i won't say it's the RIGHT way but it IS a way, temporary fix to get a driver streetable.
c-10, I don't know if you can buy it in pints, however, a quart will cover a complete, inside and out, upside and down every nook and cranny, after it is sandblasted '68 impala frame, and all the control arms and rear end with a bunch left over. It can be sprayed, don't know why you would want to though, flows out very nice for being brushed on. Then you can smack it with a hammer and it will not chip off!!! Great product. Just remember, there is no UV protectant in POR15, if you want UV protectant you have to apply The Hardnose product from these guys. Try it you'll like it! Fenderless
Even better is to use the POR putty. I had a inside wheel well lip that was partially rusted out at the spot welds. This was a small area, less than an inch. I formed the putty into a thin sheet (like cookie dough) than worked it into the metal and smoothed it out with a wet finger. when it dried and was sanded it was indistinguishable from the original metal and it was strong and didn't flex.
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