I was at National auto store and there is a brand name oil for racing and has high zinc levels 16.99 a quart .Ill get the name tomorrow.............
We just use the old Valvoline racing oil--Not near that figure and its got every thing needed for flat tappet motors
That's an outrageous price per quart..........several "brand name" racing oils with the necessary additives are available for a fraction of that price. Ray
If you have a wear issue then the extra ZDP may help you, but on the flip side I've read that it does also increase friction (cuts fuel economy and horsepower).
Look at the Alliance Vendors, several have good oil at a better price. Joe Gibbs, Rest. Spelialties etc...................
Found out its made by mobil .Im not buying any.I thought the price was a joke ,But its true...........
High Zink oil is Race engine oil's advantage. The Highest content to date is in the Pennzoil race oil. You can only get it at better engine builders. I choose Castrol HD. It also has a High Zink content, and with stands the tiorture tests better then Valvoline or the other brands. You could spend the extra and get Royal Purple, but the Castrol is very close at half the cost.
If you mean castrol HD 30 weight, I believe that is sm (or now sn) rated. Little zinc. The standard royal purple has very little of anything in it, normal zinc levels for modern oil. Very overrated and priced.
Brad Penn is under $5 a quart...which is about what I've been paying for Valvoline VR-1 at the parts house. I'm switching to Brad Penn after my cam change, got their break in oil and regular oil.
From the Brad Penn site: Motorsport Connections PTY, LTD Unit 15, 4a Foundry Rd Seven Hills, Sydney NSW 2147 Australia Mr. Travis Liefting/Mr. Mark Hinchelwood 011-61-2-98387272 sales@mscn.com.au Distributor
Brad Penn is the old Kendall green oil... Kendall was bought out by Conoco-Phillips several years back, but they only wanted the name/brand - not the refinery. Brad Penn is made by the same petro-chemists using basically the same additive packages as the old Kendall (generally considered to be one of the best non-synthetic oils) in the same refinery AND to top it all off, is 100% American Made in the oldest refinery in the US of A.
Just to clarify for those who don't know... Brad Penn oil is NOT Pennzoil. It is refined in Bradford, Pennsylvania, hence the name. Sure don't want someone to buy the yellow bottle thinking they're getting a hell of a deal on Brad Penn Oil.
On the Brad-Penn website it says the oil is "Partial-Synthetic". How would that affect using it in an older engine? (I've heard synthetic oil in an older engine is asking for trouble, i.e. leaking seals).
Years ago Pennzoil was 100 % Pennsylvania crude. and was advertized as the best crude for lubrication. But you never hear Pennzoil making that claim anymore. I guess Pennzoil uses international crude now. Mobil one 15/50W is a synthetic but it has higher zinc content than the lower viscosity Mobil one. The reason for removing zinc out of oil, is cuz it poisons Cat converters, The newer cars all use low visc. oil ( 0-30W). So Mobil can use more zinc in the higher visc. The Mobil one web site talks about it. Ago
My uncle has an old jeep and a 70 elcamino with over 350,000 miles on the stock motor and he runs the cheep **** with no problems.Both are used as daily drivers.
Cheap is good. Free is better. My drinking buddy works at one of them oil change places. I gave him some antifreeze bottles (not completely emptied), and he snuck them out of there filled with the stuff they had drained. That's all I ever use in the Corvette and never had a problem. He also brings hoses and belts they've changed out. Wiper blades, you name it... Need anything? No wait. Did I dream all that? It is early in the morning for me... Hang on, and I'll get back to ya.
I am more of a reader than a poster around here but I have interest in this topic so Ill share my information. Just this past week I revived a totaly stock 307 oldsmobile non roller motor that was rebuilt, driven for about 60,000 miles then parked for many years. The need came quickly for a motor in my latest driver, so.... in it went and is again running just like it always did. I was curious about the oil situation so I called Sealed Power and spoke to one of their tech guy's and explained what I had, a totaly stock motor rebuilt years ago with Sealed Power OE replacement stuff. He said todays oils would have no ill effects on the internals ( i.e. camshaft ) and that adding any Zddp additive was not needed. Again this is a stock motor, stock valve spring pressure ect. All that being said I tend to agree with what Pitts64 wrote a few posts back about soft cores and chinese lifters. Im getting ready to drive this on a 3000 mile vacation this so if the camshaft fails I'll post the bad news then.
Brad Penn is the original Kendall Oil. After Kendall was sold to an overseas company people in the Bradford Pennsylvania got the company going again with the original Kendall equipment and formula. VERY GOOD ****!!
You guys with 350,000 on junk oil don't get why its so important to have zinc in the oil. Throw a high lift cam and heavy valve springs in the 350,000 mile motor and see how long it lasts! Its the rebuilt flat tappet engines that need the high zinc levels, the old worn out POS does not, its already broke in using high zinc oil from years past. Its a must have for breaking in a new engine, even before starting a new engine, you should have plenty of lube on the cam during ***embly, just rotating by hand can start the problem. Its the first few seconds and rotations of the cam that matter, any good dealer will tell you that. Once the cam is polished to the lifters, 20-30 minutes, the zinc levels are not as critical. Another point to consider is a stock rebuild with factory springs (everyday motors) don't need as much zinc, its the heavy valve spring pressure that eats cams. You do it wrong and a lobe can go flat in a matter if seconds or minutes. The machinist who said it was the manufacturers making soft cores is full of ****. The zinc was removed from oil at the time cams were going flat. The OEM's where having emissions problems and asked the oil companies to remove the additive causing it. All new engines run roller cams and don't need as much protection and since old engines are such a small percentage of the total engines on the road, they went along with it. Just do it the way have been for years, just don't come back asking why the cam is flat! Joe
I use 4 quarts of 15-40 Del Ortho and 1 quart of Zinc Hyper-lube in my Y-Block and it was worked for me so far. I have driven that car everywhere.
here here.... that's what i've been doing for 40 years. i just buy walmart oil and i even use a roll of toilet paper for a filter element in my 62. upon rebuild, the cam, crank et were all within specs..... the fact is, people just believe that one oil is better than another without any actual proof. furthermore, buying synthetic oil is a fools game. i'll bet that most synthetic oil has only a smidgen of real synthetic within. ... buy the cheap oil and change it more often. oh, and stock up on toilet paper.
HAMB Alliance sellers http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/ I was mistaken, these guys sell Penrite oil as well as Lubriplate oils http://www.restorationstuff.com/newsite/contactus.html
Have you got even just a smidgin of hard scientific data to back up your contention that synthetic oil "has only a smidgin of real synthetic within" or is it just a wild and unfounded throwaway guess based absolutely nothing??? Mobil 1 saved my high dollar high thermal load engine from complete meltdown when my radiator cracked going up a steep mountain p***. The engine got so hot it dieseled and the alternator backfed the dual electric fuel pumps which are situated underneath the car, mounted on the rear floor above the rear axle. This happened despite shutting off the ignition, pulling the key, shutting the master cut out off and disconnecting the battery. It took fifteen minutes to kill it as it was hellishly hot and the supercharger plumbing had to be dismantled to be able to access the carburetor and force starve it of air. The engine blew both head gaskets and it was pretty damn dangerous to be under the hood trying to pull apart the engine when it was in danger of grenading at any moment. When I finally got it home and took the car apart, the engine had survived intact - even though the synthetic was cooked black. I am a believer in synthetic based on real world experience. I may switch to Comp Cams 1594 synthetic on my next flat tappet engine.
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