Looking for feedback on Tilton Hydraulic clutch release bearings. I did a search here and only found a few users, but with good feedback. No threads on Tilton products at all. Was hoping for some more. Specifically on the 600 series, transmission mount type. Also, those of you who are running them, are you running them with any other make of clutch? (McLeod, Ram, Centerforce, etc...) Any input would be appreciated! Thanks!
i've got a 600 series... the clutch is from clutchnet (pretty sure it's their own branded thing)... it gets used/abused often, never an issue. it works awesome. really, so much easier to setup than linkage... had no room for an external slave cylinder and the trans didn't have a fork that'd work well for an external anyway. the ~$300 for the hydraulic throwout bearing was well worth it.
I have the same situation. No room for external slave with a fork. Been checkin' the 600 series out and can't find any dirt, so I'm feeling pretty good about it. What engine/trans are you running?
trans is a T5... engine is kinda OT (guess a T5 kinda is, too )... late 60s volvo b20 4cyl (2 liters, pushrods, 7400rpm redline, oddly uses a LOT of SBC parts) it was going in my A, but thats getting a 289 now.
Good info! Thanks! I'll be using a T5 arrangement as well. Do you happen to know what size clutch M/C you used?
I think a positive pedal stop is recommended for this reason. Seems to be the case with all hydraulic type t-out bearings.
I did one in my old '50 Ford. 302 with a T-5, Centerforce clutch and mystery bell house. I adapted the stock clutch pedal to a 7/8" (?) master and never had a problem. I might even still have part numbers if it would help you.
I have one in my coupe. With a hydraulic T/O bearing the most important thing to keep in mind is that the clutch pedal does not need to depressed as much as a regular setup to make it work, otherwise the pedal travel will force the piston beyond the seal lip, it'll come apart & make a hell of a mess....therefore the need for a pedal stop. I welded a 3/8 FF nut on the pedal shaft & added a long bolt....pedal stop length is crucial. How we determined the pedal was to ***emble everything & put the car on stands...& put it in gear. Get under the car & have someone in the car depress the pedal slowly until the drive shaft turns freely. That should be where the pedal stop is adjusted to...hope that helps. BTW it wouldn't hurt to buy a seal kit & have it on hand in case something happens when you least expect it steve
Saw your concerns in the Mcleod thread so I thought I might offer the (limited) experience I have had w/ hyd. release bearings. While shopping for a clutch, I learned from a friend (Reggie here on the HAMB) that he had bad luck w/ Howe units. Puked after a few hundred miles if I remember correctly. I chose a Mcleod unit because I decided on their street twin clutch. Also, their unit came paired w/ the correct sized master cyl. In this case, a 3/4" bore Wilwood. The unit leaked w/ the 1st pedal push because I neglected to tighten the feed & bleed lines to the unit. They were only finger tight outta the box. Since then, I have put a **** ton of miles on the car (6 yrs. worth/ a few thousand miles?) and beat the living **** out of it on the strip. Finally ate up the clutch so I replaced the seals in the bearing ***embly for good measure while it was apart. Other than the goof w/ the lines at the beginning, it has been bullet proof. Mr. ford called up when his Howe bearing **** the bed & I recommended the Mcleod to him. I believe he now swears by it as well. I think Reggie went w/ a Tilton & has had success with it. PM him and I am sure he will share his experience w/ you. Hope this helps.
I switched from the Tilton release bearing (wrong bearing supplied for our project) to a McLeod bearing on a friends Hot Rod. The McLeod bearing cannot be over thrown from what I remember.... I certainly would follow D.W.'s advise, he has a killer ride.....
the clutch M/C: i'm not too sure... it's a wilwood that ive had since my VW days. its in my garage right now; i'll measure it in the morning.
I have a Tilton, but it's the Sonic series that bolts into the bell housing. I've also use Howe. I think your success is in the details: 1. Select the bearing that has a stroke matched to your type of pressure plate. 2. Match the MC bore to what the TO bearing is designed. Get the master sleeved if needed. 3. If they say to shorten the transmission TO bearing sleeve, do it. Just because it fits does not mean it won't bind. 4. Insatll an adjustable pedal stop on the clutch pedal.
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