Whats anybody using to cut holes in a Visor?

Just just curious how anybody is cutting the holes in the visor, or if they are ordering them somewhere.

I dont want to use just a hole saw and leave a rough finish. Ive asked around here for a "dimple die" set and cant get my hands on one.. This has an "A" & "B" and presses the metal giving it a nice smooth rounded edge. The tool its self is an arm and a leg. Just want to know if anybody has the old back-woods method of getting this done. I have about 8" out of my roof now on my 30's chevy pickup and cant see a damn thing with the visor tacked on.. Looks mean now but cant see.

For now i have a lil prison mirror i use to see the street lights. Or i just wait for the car next to me to start going if the light turns green, but most of the time we just sit there because he's just staring at what the hell pulled up next to him... hahahaha

 

I use my Punch press or a Greenlee ch***is punch. You also can use
a Holesaw bit on a drill. Hope this helps.

 

I picked up a bunch of electrical punches at an auction a while back. They are used to punch holes in electrical cabinets that are at least as thick as a body panel. I have sizes from fractional up to several inches in diameter. I would ask any electricians you know, they should have some.

 

You take a file or a drum sander to those rough holes after you use the hole saw. A dimple die is super easy to make (and cheap) if you have access to a lathe and a few chunks of aluminum.

 

1. I decided to make 2.5" holes.
2. I carefully laid out the centers, then used a holesaw attached to my trusty 3/8" Craftsman drill.
3. Then I filed the edges with a metal file.
4. Finally, I belled the holes with a dimple die from Mittler Brothers: http://mittlerbros.com/

 

A bit ghetto but it worked, did these -


Holesawed the main piece. Then holesawed a larger hole in two steel flats (could use wood for one of 'em). Radius the edges of one hole. Sandwich the piece between these two and clamp. Bit of a fiddle centreing everything.
Used a steel ball, you get these here from steel forgings places, cheap but pretty rough-****d. A nice big ball bearing would be better. Lob the ball onto the piece, tap and rotate the ball (especially if it's a forged POS), to gradually bell the hole.

 

thanks guys,, anyone ever used this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAF-ALL11076/

 

those came out great ,,,,,,,,,,Skcollob,,,,,,,,,,Just Gary

 

Thanks man, it was a bit fiddly, but nice 'n cheap!

 

I used a metal hole saw from lowes and just went slow with some wood under the visor. Then used some emory paper to smooth the edges before I did the dimple die stuff. Im at work and cant load any pictures, but If you go to my profile over on Ford Barn you can see a picture of it. It might be harder if your visor is on your car, but doing mine was really easy.

 

Those are the "Greenlee" punches I spoke of.A good set of these make
a good addition to any shop.

 

the greenlee punches only get to about 1 1/2" hole looks like. seems a little to small for this job

 

Again, those are just Greenlee/ch***is/conduit punches.

 

Greenlee conduit punches come in sizes larger than 2-1/2". My hydraulic set goes up to 4". You can possible rent a set for a day at your local tool rental.

 

Mine go up to 2 1/8" and I think they come bigger. My set has the Ball bearing in each and it makes them very easy to use.

 

Are you sure drilling the holes will make a difference? When I added the visor to our Model A I didn't notice a difference in seeing out of the car, then again, I don't have a roof so I look through the roof to see the lights. I was worried it would effect vision, but I didn't see any difference when I added the visor.

I can ask my friend that has a 30 sedan with a drilled visor if it helps him, he just added a roof to his car last week.

 

I have wondered how this would work: http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-punch-driver-kit-96718.html It goes up to 2".

I rented a Greenlee punch from a local tool rental place once. Perhaps it had been abused, but it leaked hydraulic fluid which limited the maximum force that could be applied. It did cut the holes we needed through a thick electrical box. Based on the quality of the rental though, I'm not sure if they are worth the exorbitant price.

 

Well i think it should make a difference it would just be nice to not lay sideways to see the street lights..... I didnt think it was a big deal until i was cruising around during our lonestar roundup and the second the light turns green its already changing yellow. Last thing i want is the unwanted attention from the Law, or how "THE MAN" takes snap shots of your car at intersections if you run a red light, or if your a foot over the line when it turns red, you can expect to see a ticket in the mail in about a couple weeks.

 

the best looking holes I've seen were done using common tools. Per shows you how its done in this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pFk_CZJvnw

 

I used a $35 2-1/2" hole flare from Irvansmith, then cleaned edges with a grinder after flaring put them pointed in. http://www.irvansmith.com/scart/indexwords_search_result.php?indexword=Hole Flare

 

A little trick to using a hole saw! Drill your pilot hole first. Now turn the drill bit around or use a piece of 1/4 steel in the saw. That way the bit is not wallowing out your pilot hole. You will get a lot nicer hole with this method

 

Something I did to cut mine since my visor has been welded in long ago.......you can get a good hole as described above w/ a hole saw.........Littleman

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=97316&highlight=littleman+drilled+visor

 

agreed. This guy is talented.

 

Updated photos,,,, i think it helped a lot....

 

I put 13 holes in my Tudor s visor.
I used a rattle can cap as a template and drew them out.
The visor with or without holes doesn't change visibility.
I used a standard lennox hole saw.

The idea of continuing the cut with a shaft rather then the bit still cutting is Great

 

I do this all the time..............works great.