I pulled the 235 out of my 59 Chevy. The Trans has a pretty good leak. I thought I could pull the convertor, but it seems to be a built in unit. Is rebuilding this trans worth the time and money? With the 235, I think this is the only trans that will bolt on(?), I hope I am wrong here. I see Langdons sells an adapter plate, so I could use a differet trans, but that is $300.00 + a different trans and converter and linkage....$$$ Any suggestions would be great.
You should be able to pull the converter out. Price the gaskets/seals, that will let you know if it's worth rebuilding. They are strange transmissions, compared to modern stuff, but you should be able to fix it if you have patience and the factory shop manual. The trick is to know what to look for as far as worn out parts. First one I did had a worn valve body, where the drum rides on it (the valve body is attached to the back of the bellhousing, the input shaft goes thru the middle of it!) I fixed it when I was 16.
The torque converter bushing is probably shot and has worn a grove into the converter yoke. You should be able to wiggle it out though. If the bushing is shot replace it and try to get a new converter or the trans will leak from the bellhousing for sure.
I could be wrong, but GM starting using dual range hydramatics in 54 GMC and maybe Chevy trucks. The Chevy trucks came with 235's, so this may be a rare possibility. The GMC trucks used their inline 6's, where Chevy used their 235, but it may be possible that both shared the same bell pattern. Just a thought.
If you thought overhauling an iron PG was challenging, try finding a 6 cyl truck hydramatic and getting it to work reliably. btw you might be able to use a newer welded converter from an aluminum PG in the iron PG transmission.
Buying the necessary adapter kit to bolt a modern automatic behind a 235 would be cheaper than trying to go the hydro route on it.
His profile says "59 Bel Air, so it's not a truck. You can rebuild/reseal the cast iron Glide with a kit from that auction site we all know and love, and for a good price. Use an old Motors Manual for a guide. IF you take it to a shop, $$$$$$$. Unless you swap to a V-8, you're pretty much stuck with the Glide you have; any other trans swap will be costly,and somewhat complicated. The "X" frame cars (58-64) used a 25" long trans (Powerglide, TurboGlide, or manual), unless they were 4-speeds. Pretty much means you'd need to shorten the front driveshaft also with a trans swap. Butch/56sedandelivery.
Thanks, I was weighing costs also. It would be sweet to have a third gear also. From the homework I have done, the later convertors will not work. That muther is heavy too...
huh, I seem to recall putting a welded converter in a 61 iron pg. When you go to a 3 speed auto you don't get third gear...you get first gear. High gear on the PG is the same as it is on the 3 speed autos (TH350, etc), 1:1. Having that lower first gear does help acceleration noticeably. Highway rpm will stay the same.
No sorry, I meant convertors out of the Aluminum PG's,. Yea, 3 total gears, is what I meant. I think it might wake the car up a bit with 3 gears instead of two....Really one gear, since it is at 1-1. I have seen the kits for the 700r...Very steep 1st gear. If I am correct the 59, has a 3.36 rear.
Just trying to give the guy an option with the old hydro! And speaking of rebuilding a hydro, funny thing is all of them I have run just fine and probably have never been rebuilt. I know it is a very long shot trying to find a 54 Chevy truck with Hydro.
Actually, I used an air cooled, Chevy II, aluminun Powerglide converter in a 61 that had a 283 in it with a cast iron Glide. The trans was originally from a 1957 Chevrolet Junior Stocker, and was 3 inches longer than the 58-64 25" long Glides. The guy I gave it to had to shorten the front driveshaft. Everything came out working fine, but it had to be manually shifted, as it was modified for the track. Just make sure the impeller hub engages correctly and the flywheel/converter spacing is alright. I did remove the cooling vane from the converter. This was many years ago, and all the details escape me. The Hydro idea is interesting, but finding a complete setup, and mlounting it would be difficult. Butch/56sedandelivery.
Thanks again for the tips. I believe in 59, that the bolt pattern from a V8 is different then the Inline 235, hence my issues. Once/Or if I get that adapter plate, then I can use anything with a stock bolt pattern...But I was weighing costs vs reliability and street manners. I mean if I gonna change it, might as well do it right.
Bell patterns are VERY different. Now if you had a 194,230,250,292 newer 6, then it is a breeze, as they used the same bolt pattern as V8's
Honestly, unless you've just GOT to have an automatic, I'd consider converting it to standard shift. It would give you a choice of 3,4, or 5 speed transmissions that would work without major modifications, and stick flywheels and bell housings for 235s are still dropping out of trees (I hate to think how many I've thrown on the s**** heap, and I've still got several!). I think someone even repros the pedals for '58-'64 full size cars now.
I dont have the bracket on the frame for the Z bar. But you are right, and it would probably cost the same.
The link below insists that you can mount a transmission from a 216(same as 235) to a 302 inline GMC (same as the one's that hydramatics mount to). http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6345350#post6345350
The Jalopy Journal
