Anyone? I have the opportunity to buy a industrial motor cheap, but I need to know I the industrial 55 motors have the 555 heads
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=496913 Some info here. Can you get the casting #s ?
You'll need to actually look at the heads to see. Some of the '55 331 industrials came with car heads, the "triple nickel" #1556157 casting heads that everyone likes. Usually they were also equipped with hardened seats and sodium valves (which will require new valve guides if you want to switch to regular steel valves). But it could be equipped with earlier heads too, or truck heads with a different crossover. The industrial engines don't follow the "rules" very well, seems like they were equipped a number of different ways. If you get a look at the casting numbers and they aren't the 1556157 heads, they are likely one of these... 1323333 - These are '51-'53 heads and have smaller valves and round, smaller ports. 1486833 - These are '53-'54 heads. The have the larger oval ports, but smaller valves than the '55 heads. Either way, if the price/condition of the engine is right I'd buy a '55 industrial regardless of the heads on it. The '55 heads do bring more money, but the '54 heads are just as good if you put in bigger valves. Even the earlier, small port heads will outflow most stock small block heads and can make decent horsepower even in stock form. Put in some bigger valves and m***age the ports and they do just fine.
Unless you are trying to wring out that last 2 dyno hp then quit fussing about the heads. All of the heads flow as well as anything ever offered in a high volume/production engine and you simply will not see/feel any difference in a street car. They are all Hemi heads! The differences are minor. .
The early heads are really a joke though, ive never played on a dyno, but it is obvious that they aint good Check on the industrial heads if they have sodium filled valves with bigger guides, it may cost a bit to have them resleeved down to take normal valves, i'm not that up on what can be done in that case, but i have a set i intend to use that way
So then they should be the larger port heads. With a larger set of valves they should flow pretty much the same as the '55 heads. I did remember another difference though, the '55 heads have a "dry" intake manifold, the crossover is on the front of the heads. The earlier heads, including the 148633-1, heads use a "wet" intake that has the crossover built into the manifold. And I agree with 73rr as far as the heads go. I haven't seen them on a flow bench, but you have to understand that flow volume isn't the only thing to consider when building an engine. Port velocity also plays a big role, and the best combination is one that's matched to your build. The round port heads obviously have a smaller port volume, but it's still a straight shot from the chamber through the port. Sure, if your planning on a forced induction race Hemi, the round port heads will be a restriction. But on a street build with around 300 hp the smaller heads should be fine. They might even provide better responsiveness and low end torque because of a higher port velocity. It's all about the build and your planned usage.
That's what I picked up for my '52 331, & I got a really good deal on them. I'm going to install 2.06" int & 1.80" exh valves & block the heat risers. I also found a '54 4BBL intake to go with 'em
I have an indusrial that I just dis***embled, has #14 (1954) heads, looks like large valve stems, two manifold water p***ages per head, wide timing chain, and four water holes on the face of the block. I plan to use the hotheads timing chain covering adapted for SBC waterpump...still not sure though, my question is can I block the coolant at the manifold without reduction in flow? Has anone done this? What manifold options are available? The heads appear to be just like the automotive heads, casting #'s and all. I also think that I may change the cam....any thoughts. The car is destine for a 29 tudor.
Block what? You have to move water through the heads and back to the pump. It will either go through the intake or through the t-stat manifold, no short cuts on this. New and regrind cams are available. .
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