Auto Air Colors...opinions???

just about everything i've read so far has been positive, but then again, the guys doing the writeups are getting free product.

looking for real world opinions of the stuff, in all scenarios.....
do you like/don't like it for spraying a whole car, doing graphics, airbrushing, washing the dog, whatever....
siphon/gravity fed, regular/hvlp application??
setup, this clear works real good, dont dip your fries in it, etc...

just looking for any and all feedback on the product.

appreciated.

 

I think Professor Barnettt,and Psychoarts,have used it.

 

I used it to do the Flames on my 23. I like the stuff. Its easy to use and is pretty forgiving if you havent had much experience like me. I think the main think is to be sure and build up the color using light "dusting" coats till you get good coverage. I wish I had sprayed a heavier coat of clear on mine but not bad for my first flame job.

 

BFD is it's Free? It's good stuff. It's easy to use if you do it right (light coats dried thoroughly). And they have pretty much every color under the sun. Also, you "don't" have to clearcoat like previously thought. It's got UV protection and has held up to 103 octane fuel.

Don't always ***ume stuff you see in the magazine is written up "good" because it's gratis.

 

So far, I like the stuff. I sprayed the dash in the Freak-conoline with the flake and it came out really nice...and I have no idea what I'm doin! I'll be spraying most of the new project with Auto Air, too...probably towards the end of next month.

 

RF,
relax. nobody is making slights on your journalistic integrity. i read your article and i believe you.
i'm not making ANY ***umptions. its called sarcasm. i've just never seen a product review in ANY magazine that was negative, and not all products are created equally.

anyway, i was under the impression that the stuff dries flat and thats why you wanna clear it for 'shiny factor'. am i under the wrong impression??

 

I'm as relaxed as 30mg Valium. And there are obvious reasons for "positive journalism". In this case, it's all my opinion, which fortunately was positive...and we screwed up a lot, too.

The stuff does dry flat, like any basecoat. I just said the clear wasn't necessary because before, it was believed it was necessary to "seal" the base, even by the manufacturer. Of course the clear will bring out the true color and impact of the base, so I'd recommend using it.

 

I like the flakes and the candies. They work good considering I'm rather new with the spraygun/airbrush.

 

I dig um.
I've just started using them, but they are sooper fun to work with...

 

NOT to bash them but i had problems with it about 5 years ago.I heard they either changed it or totally redeveloped it.They have been really pushin the stuff ,im sure you saw all the ads,seminars(MICKEY HARRIS).At this time im not willing to try it again,got to much time and money invested in HOK paint.But they really do make some nice colors,flakes,pearls etc.I Guess if your gonna do something small its worth a shot,,its a lot cheaper too than the euros.A lot of guys are useing it and swear by it but i wouldnt paint a car with waterbased paint.Check out airbrush.com they love it .

 

I love it and use it all the time, just small stuff though. Never tried to paint a whole car. Nice Flakes, chameleons, or highlights as they're now called. Candies etc. Easy to use and clean up. I don't get it for free but I should since I've been turnin people on to it for years!! Picked up my first bottle way back in 98 or 99, the new stuff has a black cap, if ya see the white caps that's the old stuff, and while it works it's not as good as the new stuff.

 

I doubt that I would try to paint a whole car with it.
I think its definitely designed for small stuff like graphics on helmets and tanks and stuff.

For something like some full on graphics down the side of the car, I think I would go with actual car paint. FWIW...

I am using it for paintings and panels and stuff. More art related stuff I suppose. Not that you asked, but its always good to know when you're trying to decide to use a product or not.

 

well, thats where i'm at. i'm looking for something versatile. something i can do some panels, helmets and an occasional scallop or flame job with....
more artsy stuff, but you never know what job may come along.

 

We love the stuff..T/Ghoul clued us in awhile back and since then have used all manner of AAC and Createx Fl. on anything we care to paint.....shirts, panels, helmets,guitars,etc.....even combined on several projects with 1 Shot.......but on autos and signs, we would not choose AAC over 1 Shot...

 

We are using Badger "Imagine Air " in our airbrush workshop. The waterbase paints have their place and over the past 10 years have come a long ways!!! I love the stuff for some things like nice graphics and flames because the tape lines pull so nice.....but you have to let the stuff dry completly before you pull the tape, if you heat set the paint too much the tape adhesive melts and gets pretty ugly.....

Don't give up and keep working with the stuff.

Hetz

www.jchetzstudio.com

 

Couldn't disagree more. We're painting a complete '56 F-100 right now with AutoAir. Looks amazing so far. It's a pearl red that's more consistent and even than anything I've seen. Of course the guy spraying (Jerry Sievers) uses the stuff almost exclusively, so that makes a difference. Nonetheless, it strengthened my belief in the water-borne paint.

 

Okay Mr 30mgs...based upon that information, I feel confident enough to do a whole bike with it.....
Now,how are you buying the stuff....surely not 1000 4 oz bottles?

 

so you're saying that in the hands of a proficient user, it would be ideal for something small like a gl*** bucket ??

would you mind posting some pics of the finished truck??

do you think sievers would mind an email to pick his brain a little??

thanks.....

 

30mg on a slow day...

Ask alteredpilot how I get the stuff (he's right, though, free!). So I'm no help as to where you should purchase!

 

Gl*** bucket...do you mean a fibergl*** T, or an actual gl*** bucket? Well, either way, you know your proficiency better than anyone else. Once you've got the paint figured out, you'll know how big to go, right?

As for Sievers and e-mail, I think that's like water and oil. I'll be happy to post some pics of the truck when it's done. And I might try and get the guy from AutoAir to come on here and post some of his brain.

 

try www.coastairbrush.com
you can buy the stuff by the gallon if you like.
2,4,8,16,32, and 128 oz containers.

 

How transparent is the Auto Air Candy ?

I've been using Testors Candy for doing ground aluminum panels.
Their Green is fantastic,all the other colors are not nearly as transparent.

 

Has anyone tried a waterborne primer over bare metal, or do you have to stick to Epoxy or Urethane primers?

 

First off Im very inexperienced when it comes to painting cars etc. But just finished shooting my daily driver Camaro with Auto Air Colors. If you want to know more........you're going to have to but the Dec issue of Super Chevy magazine. Im not going to post the whole thing here. Seems like lately magazine guys get used as pinata's around here.

My opinion the stuff works great. But.........I'll tell ya what I learned in the magazine.


>here is a shot of the car in it's base coat sealer
>next shot is with the first "dust coating"
>this photo the car is completely painted
>after 2 heavy coats of clear here is what you get. I have not color sanded it yet. But when you shoot the clear, the color really jumps to life. Tons of pearl in this mix. I was using one of their new formula's no need to use a dryer to dry the paint or a UV booth.

 

The pictures are all out of order, but the white sealer goes first, then dust coat, then build color, then finally clear.

 

Thanks Buick59! Any thoughts on primers used under the sealer? Can a waterbourne primer be used, or does it have to be an Epoxy or Urethane Primer? What did you use under the AAC Primer Sealer?

I've got a 49 Ford we're shooting for my Dad. We're in the process of stripping it to bare metal and putting in patch panels. The body is pretty straight, but I plan to use some lead on the rear quarter seams and will skim coat with Bondo. Do I need to use an Etching primer under the Bondo, or can I just shoot a high build primer over everything after the skim coat?

I read Overspray's tech stuff, and it was very informative, but still don't know what to use for a primer. Any suggestions? I guess I could use anything, but we want something that will last, since this car is for Mom and Dad's 50th wedding aniversary (just like the car they dated in). Thanks in advance...
Mike

 

Hi Guys, I used AAC for the first time last year, pretty amazing stuff. The only thing I knew about painting was everything I could get my hands on to read and a few how-to VHSes. I had really good luck with the AAC but my clear ****ed so bad I sanded it all back to primer. I'm getting ready to try again (I've practiced on an old hood for awhile). Anyway for the first time AAC user, their website is pretty good for explaining how and why. I do believe you still need some sealer primer on bare metal and I do believe you still need some kind of clear coat as water based paint won't stand up to the elements so well.

 

July issue of Street rodder had a pretty good article on it.

I'm gonna try some eventually.

 

That's where I found out about AAC, but the article doesn't have much info about prep. Any of you guys care to talk about prep before you shot your car?

 

I love the stuff and use it pretty much exclusively nowadays. If it helps, here's a couple of shots of a T bucket I did awhile ago just after it was cleared. I have never used it uncleared and never used it for an entire paintjob, but probably would if requested. Good luck.