Dallas DFW Hamber's*** HELP NEEDED engine rebuild

HELP needed rebuilding an engine. Picking up a Chevy 250 out of a 1970 nova this weekend. I need help rebuilding the engine. I have never rebuilt an engine if someone with experience is kind enough to help me re***emble my engine they can only be found here on the GOOD OLE HAMB... I live in Plano 5 min from 75 & GB. I would hope with some proper planning we could knock it out in one weekend. I know I could send it out to be rebuilt but that just wouldn't be Hot Rodding. I can pay you for gas and your time no prob just let me know. Thanks in advance. John

 

Maybe we can get a group of guys together. Some who know what they are doing and some who want learn? Shooting for around may 14th weekend or 21st. Again I will pay for your services .. Send me a pm .. Thanks John

 

I don't know what I'm doing, but would love to come over and lend a hand. I have a 235 in my 52 chevy that I'll be wanting to rebuild...one of these days. Keep me posted. Thanks.

Justin

 

Justin,

no problem I will keep you in the loop. so far no luck but the HAMB amazes me sometimes so I am sure we can get something together. Mean while i will be ordering all of the parts and get the block to the machine shop so we can get this thing kicked off.

If anyone wants to donate some time and know how.. I will compensate you, especially those who do this for a living I will pay your normal rate.. I am not trying to get my engine rebuilt for free. I am just wanting to learn and enjoy what we are all on the hamb for... thanks John

 

I'm down. Teardown is an important part of the rebuild process, too.

 

racer32: thanks!! i will shoot you a PM. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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I agree, I do not want to mess anything up. I know I need to mark the rods and rod caps. Is there anything else I need to mark? Main caps? May be we could have the guys over tear it down, make sure we have all the parts for the rebuild send it off to the machine shop and meet again to rebuild....<o></o>
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Every one else is welcome to participate. The more experience guys are needed too the more we have the better.. I can provide my 2 car garage, engine, parts and tools. I do have an engine stand. I dont have any specialty tools, cam bar, torque wrench, tool to put the piston heads in (dont know what its called) <o></o>
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if anyone has some tools they can bring let me know. so we can get this ironed out. I will be in touch. john <o></o>

 

I've got number stamps & pretty much anything needed. Do you have air tools/compressor?

 

Tear down tools you'll need:

Ridge Reamer - trims the ridge at the top of the cylinder bore in order to remove old pistons.

Bolt Grip Puller Set - to remove the balancer from the crankshaft snout.

Yes, mark the main caps as well as the rod caps.

Get some clear plastic baggies, a marker and notepad. Really helps with bolts/nuts/fasteners.

Digital camera will be a plus too. A video camera would be good to refresh your memory at the build.

At build time more specialty tools are needed depending on your rodding preferences.

 

racer32: I do not have an air compressor but pretty sure I can barrow one. I do have an impact gun that I bought and have not used.

wrench409: thanks for the help! I do not have a ridge reamer (never actually heard of one before now) and not exactly sure what bolt grip pullers are?? John

 

Triple clean your garage/work area. Have lint free paper towels and cleaning solvents for the block and parts. Run some new oil through the new oil pump (spin by hand) sometimes its has debris in them. Hand soap. Plenty of elbow room. Prepare any part's you plan on re-using, oil pan, timing cover ect. A large sheet of cardboard to catch spill's under the engine stand. Take notes and pic!

 

picked up the 250 yesterday. turns over fine but looks a little rough. i got it for dirt cheap so as long as the block or head is not cracked it should be good to go. I am ready for the rebuild!!

Race32 is kind enough to lend a hand and his knowledge. we are going to set up a date around his schedule. we will be having a tear down day and rebuild day. again you guys are more than welcome to come. i will keep everyone posted. thanks john


i have no idea why the pics are side ways...

 

something I learned long ago...IF you are using your cam and lifters over...keep all parts in order and go back in the same order...lifters, push rods, and rockers...may sound silly but all have a wear pattern that will take time and adjustments to wear back in if you don't....

 

Thanks RDR, I kept everything in order and marked I know exactly where everything goes...

The only thing that has not been removed is the cam bearings since I do not have a cam bar. I am sure the machine shop can do this. In the picture the lifters are still in but they have been removed.

Off to the machine shop this week. I bought this engine with the intention of rebuilding it. When I got into it I found out it is a 230 and not a 250, so I will be converting it.

QUESTION: is there anything i need to tell the machine shop. what exactly needs to be done?

 

What machine shop are you taking it to?

A shop will clean everything and will/should measure everything and determine what needs to be machined then follow through as is feasible.

 

Frank, I think im going to take it to D & P Machine in garland.

 

as far as going from 230 to 250 all i need is a 250 crank.. correct?

I am probably going with Clifford 250 rebuild kit. which includes, pistons, rings, gaskets, clevitte bearings, lifters, springs, retainers, valve locks, and pushrods and clifford cam of my choice.

does this mean i use the rods and rod caps it came with, with the new Crank and timing gear?

 

bell housing question. did not want to make a new thread so i hope this works. i picked up a bellhousing which came out of a chevy truck. the trans was a three speed and the engine was a 350. i already checked and it matched the chevy 250. this will be mating to the t5 trans from an 85 s10. i bolted the top two bolts to the trans to see how it fit. it only came with 2 bolts maybe this should have been a clue. the bottom 2 holes did not have threads?!?!?!?
how do i bolt the bottom two bolts to the trans.??? on the inside of the bell housing it looks like there is a recess for bolts to go? maybe i am missing something.
also is there is not a bottom cover or lower half of the bell housing. any help will be appreciated. thanks john

 

bump need help with this ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^. dont want to make a new thread. thanks john

 

Have your machine shop put some thread inserts in it for 1/2 inch bolts.

 

ok thanks. thats a great idea.. should there have been threads there? any reason why there would not have been? the guy i bought it from said he pulled it from his truck to go with an automatic. and the trans was bolted to it but only with the two top bolts.

 

I would have the shop put 1/2" studs in the bell housing. Much easier to install the ****** for line up when laying on your back.

 

Were they stripped out? A lot of times that happens when someone draws the trans into the bellhousing and clutch when the clutch or bellhousing isn't quite aligned properly. Should be an easy fix.

 

no they are not stripped out. its completely smooth like there was never any threads to begin with. was wondering if i could put bolts on the inside facing the trans and put nuts on the side of the trans? but having the shop rethread makes more sense.

 

Some older GM bellhousings had the lower two bolts that were accessed from inside the bellhousing through open area when the inspection plate cover is removed. The trans (usually a granny type box) had threaded holes that mated with those holes.

If your gearbox has lower bolt holes that mate to those bolt holes then you can have threaded sleeves (kind of like helicoils) installed. The holes will need to be enlarged, solid rod pressed into the holes, then drilled and threaded for the 1/2" co**** threads.

Or just use bolts from the inside and nuts on the outside.

 

wrench409... thanks that seems more like what it is. i have the trans to i guess i could look at the old trans and see it should be threaded then. if thats how it came i will use bolts from the inside and nuts on the outside... thanks for the help... john

 

Keep us posted.

Some of us are in DFW and can help if needed.

 

wrench409... I will keep yall posted. what ive figured out so far is that the original trans does have threads in the lower holes so I will just run bolts from the inside out on the t5.

second I found the clutch splines and trans splines are not the same. the trans has 14 splines and the clutch has 10. which is ok because i planned on buying a new clutch. However the flywheel is the larger 168 tooth and the clutch is 12 inches. From what i can tell there is not a 12 inch 14 spline clutch avaliable.

so my question is can I use the 168 tooth larger flywheel and presure plate that came with it, with an 11 inch clutch that has 14splines? it also came with the clutch fork and throw out bearing. can i use these as well?

i have read about every t5 thread on here and read some place that older chevy truck bell housing will work .. so thats what i got and would hate to buy parts twice. thanks john

 

Ok I got ^^^^^^ figured out I am keeping the flywheel and preasure plate and going with a 11inch 14 spline clutch from a 1985 chevy astro van ad well as keeping the 54 cult h fork...THANKS SNARL!!! for helping me out.. I'm also going with a spacer from hamiltonintake

http://hamiltonintakes.com/products/s10-t-5-swap-adapter

Now my new question: I am searching for a s10 4x4 rear end. I have found a few, should I pick up the driveshaft with the rearend as well? And have it sized or wait until the engine trans and rear end are in and measure the driveshaft length and look for one then?

Thanks John

 

Hey John, I'm doing the same swap in my 54, I'm using a 12 bolt from a firebird. My motor and trans are installed and I've measured for a driveline. I'm coming up with 50" for the shaft without the trans yoke, thats just the driveline. I'm guessing you'll be close to that. I was able to use an aluminum bell for an 11" clutch, the stock fork that it came with and the 54 hockey stick, I had to grind the hockey stick so it was flat on 2 sides to p*** thru the hole in the fork. Other than that it works great with the stock 54 pedal and linkage. I used a hotrod works T5 cross member, kinda spendy but a very nice piece. It fit exactly like it should. I can sna you pictures if you want to see my clutch linkage or anything else to do with this swap. The clearances are tight in the front areas, crank pulley is really close to the front cross member, radiator needs to be moved forward of the core support. cant run an engine driven fan, just no room for it. Feel free to PM if you have any questions

 

You dont need that spacer if you use the 11" aluminum bell, mine bolted right together with no trouble or clearance issues, my buddy did the same swap in a nova using a camaro T5, no issues there either