'40 ford coupe rear window seal

I have the seats and package tray out of the coupe, so figured this would be the time to replace the window seal. Anybody done one? Any tips on tools or techniques? It appears to me that it should install from the inside out. Any suggestions on sealer to make it water tight? I was going to use clear silicone, any better product?
Thanks in advance!
Steve

 

Thanks skids;
I was thinking of the string, but didn't think of two wraps and soap. Right now the project is getting all the old silicone off. That looks like it may be the hardest part of the job. Is the windshield sealer something I can get at Auto Parts, or is a gl*** shop only type thing?

 

Use this stuff. NAPA product. Cleans up with mineral spirits. Not silicone.

 

Thanks for the input guys. You're right Skids, the silicone doesn't stick to the rubber, but I've spent the last two hours scrubbing the silicone off the body. Pulled the paint up in a few places. I used 3M Adhesive Cleaner #08984, it will soften the old silicone enough to scrub it off with a rag. Took me two hours to do one side. I'll NEVER use silcone on a window. The PO used the silicone.

 

If the gl*** fit the undamaged opening properly and the rubber is fresh sealer shouldn't be needed. I allways apply one layer of black vinyl electrical tape onto the window pinch weld all the way around the opening to provide a snag free smooth surface for the rubber to slide over into position. Leave the tape.

 

i use 14 guage wire instead of rope and use plenty of soapy water. you shouldn't need any sealers if you have a good fitting piece of gl***, and a new seal.

 

I believe white vinegar helps dissolve silicone glue.

 

After 20 years of installing gl*** in vintage cars my experience is that the only thing that works is 3M automotive bedding and glazing compound Part #51135, it stays pliable. urethanes don't stick to rubber and silicone is a BIG NO NO when installing gl***.

 

....and..remember..On your 40 rear window, the thin lip of the rubber gasket goes inside. The gasket will go either way, but if the thin side is out, it will wrinkle in the corners and look goofy.

 

Thanks for the info. I printed it out for safe keeping. JIM

 

I was taught to use and I have always used the creamy old style GoJo hand cleaner as lube for rubber gl*** gaskets before pulling the gl*** in. I have tried other things as lube and always go back to GoJo. If you have some.... give it a try.
Cleans up easy too.

 

I did mine by myself [which means you certainly can] with liquid soap on the cord and the inside of the rubber. No sealer. I don't know if it leaks yet, but I don't believe Ford originally used any sealer. I can tell you from personal experience, DO NOT USE SILICONE. Really a pretty easy job.

 

Use the Drake seals,they fit the best.

 

Iv only done two and used drakes.
They didn’t want to lay flat to the body in the corners. Had to stick it down with contact cement.

 

thanks

 

Use quality rubber and no sealer is needed.

 

I have a 1940 ford coupe that Im building. I want to glue the windshield in on the inside. and not use the garnish molding. not sure how to cover the sides. has anyone done this before?

 

duane1946 Oh no! Please don't do that.
40's look best with the stock divided gl*** and rubber seal.

 

I've built 2 '40 coupes & have learned that gl*** not curved exactly right is what causes the gaskets not to lay down in the corners. I now only use Drake's seals & have the gl*** cut according to the pattern he supplies w/the seals. Good results.