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rustoleum garage floor epoxy

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by trey, Apr 12, 2005.

  1. trey
    Joined: Sep 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,220

    trey
    Member

    anyone used this stuff? im thinking of putting it down on the garage im buying. i was wondering how long it takes to cure. i close friday morning, and could start as soon as closing is done. would it be dry by saturday morning? temperature should be in the 50-60's. thanks.

    trey
     
  2. Missouri_Mike
    Joined: Jul 3, 2003
    Posts: 166

    Missouri_Mike
    Member

    Hey Trey...I work at Home Depot, and spend quite a bit of time in the paint department. We sell the Rustoleum product, but I haven't had many customers purchase it or give me any feedback. Here's a link to the info about it on Rustoleum's website, and it includes the drying time:

    http://www.rustoleum.com/Project.asp?frm_project_id=30&ddp=30&SBL=1

    In addition to the Rustoleum garage floor paint, we also carry a product by Behr. It's actually a one-part epoxy coating, so there's no mixing necessary. I have sold a fair bit of this stuff, and feedback has been really good so far. Once again, here's a link to more info:

    http://www.behr.com/behrx/act/view/...=14&catName=Concrete+Floor+Coatings&catId=5#9

    Sorry I can't give you any impressions from the user end, but I don't even have a garage at the moment. Over time, I've learned to use customer feedback and choices as a pretty good barometer of a product's quality, and the Behr seems to do pretty well.
     
  3. Mutt
    Joined: Feb 6, 2003
    Posts: 3,218

    Mutt
    Member

    Yes I used it. A few hints -

    Keep plenty of rollers available, because it will begin to set up on the roller, and cause you to have trouble pushing it over the floor, which in turn makes for a crappy finish. Change rollers every 100sq. ft. or so for the best finish. And make sure the floor is cleaned by using acid, if it's been used and stained.

    The can will have the drying info, but IIRC you could walk on it in 12 hrs, and it was somewhere around 7 days for driving on it. It is a very good coating, and has held up well in my garage. It's a heck of a lot cheaper than the stuff in the restoration books. I got mine at Home Depot for around $50.00 a can.

    Here's info on it...
    http://garage-toys.com/epoxyshield.html?source=overture&OVRAW=rustoleum&OVKEY=rustoleum&OVMTC=standard


    A little additional - I used a waterbased epoxy on the other side of the garage, and it isn't nearly as tough as the Rustoleum. if you want the best protection used the Rustoleum.

    Mutt
     
  4. jersey fink
    Joined: Feb 11, 2005
    Posts: 385

    jersey fink
    Member
    from jersey

    i paint full time,but never used that product,,but on garage floor when you think its clean enough.Start over and clean again.I would think rustoleum makes a good product though.Like in any painting though READ THE CAN .
     
  5. RotHod
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 277

    RotHod
    Member
    from So Cal

    I used the Behr garage floor paint from Home Depot. It has held up good so far for 6 years. It can also be tinted to what ever color. It is starting to flake a little by the garage door entrance. I dont know why maybe I didnt prep good enough there dont know.
     
  6. trey
    Joined: Sep 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,220

    trey
    Member

    what kind of price does the behr paint have? i cant find it on the home depot site.

    trey
     
  7. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,790

    zman
    Member
    from Garner, NC

    I've used the Valspar & Rustoleum 2 part epoxy floor paint in my shop and it's held up well for three years, and i've abused it... I used a one part epoxy on the floor of my old motorcycle shop, didn't hold up near as well...
     
  8. Louver Dude
    Joined: Feb 23, 2005
    Posts: 1,110

    Louver Dude
    Member

    I used it in my shop, it has held up great except for one small area that I spilled acid on it.... shit..... other then that love it .
     
  9. Arthur
    Joined: Mar 8, 2005
    Posts: 994

    Arthur
    Member
    from NC

    >>trey]anyone used this stuff?<<

    I used it in my shop,and am glad I did. For one thing,it makes sweeping the floor 10 times easier. Eliminates all that cement dust crap. Also makes wiping up oil or gas spills real easy. Battery acid will eat it alive,though.

    Cheapest place I found to buy it was at Lowes.

    i>> i was wondering how long it takes to cure. i close friday morning, and could start as soon as closing is done. would it be dry by saturday morning? temperature should be in the 50-60's. thanks.<<

    Do yourself a favor and paint it after closing on Saturday. Your experience may be different than mine,but it didn't go as far with me as it was supposed to go,and it took longer to dry than I expected. I guess you could cut it with something,but I didn't try. Give it all night Saturday and all day and night on Sunday,and it will probbly be dried when you come to work on Monday.

    I put mine on with a roller,and spread the &quot;sprinkles&quot; across when it was tacky. You don't have to use them,but they do reduce the glare a little,and they are supposed to keep the floor from being so slippery.
     
  10. bobx
    Joined: Apr 17, 2004
    Posts: 1,060

    bobx
    Member
    from Indiana

    hows it hold up to welding sand grinding sparks??
     
  11. Missouri_Mike
    Joined: Jul 3, 2003
    Posts: 166

    Missouri_Mike
    Member

    IIRC, it's under $30/gallon. I'll check tomorrow at work and let you know for certain.
     
  12. Missouri_Mike
    Joined: Jul 3, 2003
    Posts: 166

    Missouri_Mike
    Member

    Trey...I called over to work today (I'm off temporarily with an injured back), and we've got the Behr garage floor paint for $24/gallon. It's possible that a Home Depot in your area might have it at a slightly different price (may be higher in a more metropolitan market...I'm out in the sticks), but it shouldn't be more that $2-$3/gallon higher.

    Hope that helps a little...
     
  13. trey
    Joined: Sep 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,220

    trey
    Member

    thanks for your help mike. ill check into that.

    trey
     
  14. Leaky Pipes
    Joined: Jan 11, 2005
    Posts: 596

    Leaky Pipes
    Member

    please dont use Behr. they sell it at home depot cause its cheap. in paint u usaully get what u pay for.

    Im a painter by trade and a 2 part epoxy or the rustoleum epoxy that u mentioned is the best, (wear a respirator/gloves!) however, epoxy should only be used over bare concrete or previous epoxy. its not recommended to be applied over pre-existing latex/oil paint. if u have pre existing latex/oil paint on the floor then I recommended using oil base. (if the floor is allready painted and u cant tell whats on there, then pm me.) clean the floor thoroughly. i forget what acid we use but i think its called muriatic acid (*Wear gloves)...u can find it at a paint store or h-depot.

    paint has a dry time and a cure time. these are affected by air temp and humidity. 50-60's are good but overnight it may get cooler and slow down the drying. depending on the weather- if u painted a floor fri afternoon, i wouldnt drive a car with hot tires on the floor until after the cure time, which could be up to 48-72 hrs. maybe longer? so do it on a sat. read the label carefully for recommended dry/cure times. good luk and pic a cool color.




     
  15. trey
    Joined: Sep 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,220

    trey
    Member

    thanks for all the info on that. id like to use the behr, because i can have it tinted. is it possible to have the rustoleum tinted too? not that its a big deal to me, it would just be fun i guess? i think i will wait to do it though. i want to make sure i have time to clean it really good, and i want it to have time to cure. this isnt the kind of thing i should be rushing into, as much as i like to rush everything. so ill go with the rustoleum in a week or two. the floor isnt painted, but has a lot of oil stains. ill have to do my best to clean it. the acid you spoke about, is that the same thing that masonry workers use?

    trey
     
  16. Leaky Pipes
    Joined: Jan 11, 2005
    Posts: 596

    Leaky Pipes
    Member

    yes, muriatic acid is what masonary workers use to clean cement. it is probably the most caustic chemical that is commercially available, yet still sold to the public. a degreaser should be used for excessive oil or grease stains. the Behr 1 part epoxy is an acrylic/epoxy blend. i have never used it so i couldnt tell u how good it is. the Behr add says its good for resisting hot tire and oil etc. so as long as it has a warranty on the label, then they have to correct any problems u may have with it ie: (peeling)

    rustoleum comes in two colors only. gray and tan, but their warranty/gaurantee is excellent and to me seems like the better product. however, whichever product u wind up using, the cure time for automobiles is 1 week. foot traffic 24 hrs. i know this seems like a long time and not conducive towards running your garage, but from my expierience, half of what the manufacturer recommends is usually sufficient. so figure 3-4 days for cars. do it on a holiday maybe? the end result will be very pleasing if u can figure out when to do it.



     
  17. Missouri_Mike
    Joined: Jul 3, 2003
    Posts: 166

    Missouri_Mike
    Member

    I find it interesting that in one post you tell him to not use the Behr because it's "cheap", but then in your next post you admit that you've never used it. Guess I can't figure that one out. Frankly, Behr paint is, as a rule, a premium paint product. I've sold countless gallons of all types of their paint and heard nary a word of complaint. I wasn't trying to knock the Rustoleum product in any way, just trying to tell the guy that there was another option. The tintabilty (is that a word?) of the Behr makes it more appealling to a lot of people that I talk to. Plus, as you said, it's got a great warranty, so you're covered if there are any problems.

    Trey, best of luck with your garage floor. In my opinion, you probably can't go wrong either way. If there's anything else I can try to get an answer on to help, don't hesitate to drop me a PM.
     
  18. Deuce Rails
    Joined: Feb 1, 2002
    Posts: 2,016

    Deuce Rails
    Member

    That's what I was wondering...
     
  19. Fat_46
    Joined: Oct 27, 2004
    Posts: 48

    Fat_46
    Member

    Just a word of caution on any of the epoxies...if you have a moist garage floor (moisture from below) they will not last. Its not the products fault, its just not designed for that kind of an environment. I have an unfortunately located garage (its sitting in the lowest spot in my yard) and the Rustoleum lasted about 2 years. I'm planning on stripping what is left and going with Armstrong VCT tile sometime this summer.

    Good luck!
     
  20. We are having the entire house done in VCT tile (not Armstrong, Domco) at the end of the month, judging by the samples we got from , that stuff should be indestructable.
     
  21. trey
    Joined: Sep 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,220

    trey
    Member

    i read somewhere to tape a sheet of plastic down for 24 hours. if its has moisture or leaves a wet square on the concrete, its too wet to do. i think most houses around here dont have a problem with that.

    trey
     
  22. Badfast
    Joined: Apr 5, 2005
    Posts: 41

    Badfast
    Member

    I don't think it would work on my shop floor...it's dirt.

    Seriously, I manage a building supply center and the Rustoleum products are the best by far in my opinion.
     
  23. Mutt
    Joined: Feb 6, 2003
    Posts: 3,218

    Mutt
    Member

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by 61 wag
    hows it hold up to welding sand grinding sparks??





    Yes, there are no burn marks from either. And it makes sweeping the grinding powder up very easy.


    Mutt
     
  24. 2dr_sedan
    Joined: Mar 25, 2005
    Posts: 265

    2dr_sedan
    Member

    Make sure you have a moisture barrier beneath your floor or nothing will stick for any amount of time. Basically a moisture/vapor barrier is as simple as plastic being put down before you have your concrete poured.
    I was in the industrial coating/concrete restoration business for years and know from hands-on. The best and easiest way to tell is take a piece of plastic approx 3'x3', duct tape it around the edges to the floor. Wait a day or two, pull the plastic, if it's moist under there - no good, and I personally would not coat it. If it's dry, that rocks & you're good to go.
    There is ways to make coatings stick with shot-blasting the surface and using water-based epoxy primers, but for what it would cost... it just wouldn't be economical.
    Hope I've helped.
    Mike
     
  25. airkooled
    Joined: Jan 27, 2005
    Posts: 703

    airkooled
    Member
    from Royal Oak

    Anyone able to compare this Behr or Rustoleum stuff to the more expensive ones, like U-Coat-It?

    What would ya'll think about coating a floor in stages? You know, do one side of the garage, wait a long time for it to cure then do the other side of the garage. There's too much junk in my garage and I don't want to leave it outside for like a week.
     
  26. rusty210
    Joined: Feb 21, 2004
    Posts: 311

    rusty210
    Member

    I used the Rustoleum on our back patio and it has held up great for over 3 years with no problems. I used a different 2 part epoxy on my garage floor, because I wanted a different color, and it is tough but didn't cover as well because it was a clear base. Stay away from the Behr 1 part epoxy. I just used it on the garage floor at my new house and it does not hold up. Several scratches and flakes just from setting boxes on it while moving in. I would recommend learning to like tan or grey and going with the Rustoleum.
     
  27. haring
    Joined: Aug 20, 2001
    Posts: 2,335

    haring
    Member

    For those of you considering VCT (vinyl composition tile), how do you plan to apply it to your floor? Do you need an underlay or simply spread adhesive on the concrete (if so, does the concrete need to be sealed)?

    VCT might be nice in the workshop/workbench part of my garage.
     
  28. Leaky Pipes
    Joined: Jan 11, 2005
    Posts: 596

    Leaky Pipes
    Member

    Hey Missouri Mike, sorry for the confusion. I meant that i never used the Behr -garage- paint. not to mean that Behr is a horrible product line, just a bit inferior to what else ive used. yes tintability is a word, and wouldnt a red garage floor be interesting?


     
  29. Leaky Pipes
    Joined: Jan 11, 2005
    Posts: 596

    Leaky Pipes
    Member

    Hey Airkooled, yeah u can do it in parts. the only thing u may wind up with is a "lap" or "sheen" line where the first stage meets the second. not a big deal.



     
  30. blueovalfanatic
    Joined: Feb 22, 2005
    Posts: 28

    blueovalfanatic
    Member

    I am in the process of painting my garage floor right now, and after much debate, I went with Seal-Krete one part epoxy, for two reasons...one, a friend of mine used it who welds alot and is constantly sliding a piece of steel or something across the floor, and has had good luck with it. Two, regardless of what you use, it will eventually need touched up. With the 1-part, just take the lid off the can, stir it, and touch it up. No mixing "A" and "B".

    My floor will see some abuse from jacks, jackstands, engine hoist, etc., and although I will try to take care of it, it's still a garage floor. I e-mailed Seal-Krete about a clear coat sealer, and although it is formulated, it is not yet on the shelves at stores. They sent me a gallon for free to try if I agreed to send them before and after pics.

    AirKooled- I am in that dilema right now, as my car and lawn tractor have to stay inside. I have about 40% done, and once the clear is applied and cured for 5 days, everything will be moved to the painted side to complete the rest. I can apply the clear as of Monday night. I'm also a glutton for punishment, and I am doing mine in black and white, as with the drainage in the floor, tile would be out of the question.

    Anyway, heres a couple pics...

    Greg
     

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