FLATCAD RACING Bonneville 2011 Build

Lookin at thoae parts makes me itchy all over!!!

 

Well, I just got back from California last night. I had to cut the trip short, but still got a lot done! I was pretty disappointed that I wasn't able to get over and meet Rich Fox, and Garry Odbert, as I'd hoped.

I went by Keeper's, and bs'd a little. He's got an amazing setup! He'll be starting on the heads, so you'll be seeing them soon.

I went by Bob Brooks's, to look at his nitro Flatcad. He's got some real cool tricks he's doing to it, so I hope he starts a build thread for all to see.

I was able to go by the Ed Martin garage, and meet up with the SCTA RoadRunners. What a great bunch of guys! Thanks for the fun time!

I went to DJ Safety, and quickly learned that unless you're wealthy, safety equipment is damned expensive! I would have rather got my wang caught in my zipper, than make the phone call to my wife, that I had to make, explaining why I had spent soooo much!
Good people there, though, and I was able to get, or order, everything I needed.

 

Dale that girdle looks super
Buddy, yea safety equipment is the one thing that keeps on asking and asking for money as the years go by.....
Got my shirts today and man are they nice but you need a place where we can send contributions as you ain't making much on shirts................

 

Carl, You're too kind! The print for your grandson will leave here tomorrow!

Donations can be made at Paypal to: lynchss47@aol.com

Swag can still be purchased at www.flatcaddy.com.

...and now, back to our regularly scheduled programming!

 

WZ JUNK sent this to me today:

I roughed out a plug for the air inlet this morning. It will be used to test fit it to the car. The shape needs to be oval to clear the top of the water tank and then transition to round so that a flex hose will connect it to the piece that will be made to fit the injector.

When I asked if he minded me posting it, I received this:

Sure, I am always interested in some feedback. This stuff is so different and many times you get some ideas that you have not thought about. I sending a picture to the guy that may form it for me. He may make it out of carbon fiber. The other piece that will mount to the Enderle will be a similar shape but a different size.

Seems John worked on a gent's car, that makes protheses. They are contemplating making these parts with the same method.

Damn thing looks factory to me!

 

Look what I've got...

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/IrSm2MrsrS9VTRz50ge1v2JkCRoYsVcLu-s-4sHOxBk?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_jDqQJ3IMQ6A/TbCZ8y4omII/AAAAAAAADUE/9ArxGS6AjEs/s800/1303407266288.jpg" height="600" width="800" /></a>

 

Make them chips start flying Kevin! Those are some hunks of material!

 

Running a couple tests on a scrap piece we had... should square up the blocks on Monday.

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/VV5VyHR47XYuarDqGwhfJWJkCRoYsVcLu-s-4sHOxBk?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_jDqQJ3IMQ6A/TbCzFeEpIGI/AAAAAAAADUY/4Ef-lyv-IBY/s800/1303425586608.jpg" height="600" width="800" /></a>

 

Kevin, that looks great!!!! I'm really excited to see these heads come to life.

 

Details on the Stud Girdle -- and the Final Result!:

Here are some pictures of how I designed the stud girdle and you'll see the final result that Don made.

1) I put bolts in all the pan rail locations and also some ARP studs in all the main locations.



2) Then I purchased a 24" digital dial caliper -- big bastard that it is! I used this to determine every bolt location center point. I'll call the front-to-back dimensions the 'X' axis and the side to side dimensions the 'Y' axis. Here is how I did it:



a) I measured all the X axis dimensions from the same machined location at the back of the block (bell-housing face) -- instead of measuring from one bolt/stud to another. This reduces the amount of compound errors - as every dimension is measured from the same starting point.

b) The Y Axis was a bit rough in that there is no obvious way to measure the 'centerline' of the Y Axis. I placed a precision steel rule against the sides of the studs and then used this to measure all the pan bolt locations - away from the centerline. Obviously you need to do the math such that you account for the stud/bolt sizes, etc.. Check your work multiple times - I must have remeasured and checked mine about 10 times!

c) You also use a bit of a 'crystal ball' -- in that some dimension values are obvious once you think about it . . . like the studs are 3.750 inches apart (centerline) . . . and they're ALL going to be that way.

d) Then I created a 3D CAD model in SolidWorks - then a 2D template drawing that Chris used to create a laser-cut template out of. It is a polycarbonate material - about .060 thick. I used this as a physical template to see if my CAD model was accurate.

I "mirrored" the hole pattern from one side of the engine to the other - to make it symmetric. After Chris made the 1st template for some reason it didn't fit quite right . . . (user error on my part ) - so I removed the symmetric relationship and moved some holes. Cut another template - was OFF. Went back to the first . . . SECOND time I used it, it was fine. Who knows why I had drama the first time. Just goes to show, measure everything multiple times and recheck your work -- or you'll waste some expensive time and material

The final result is symmetric - and so is the block (side to side) - that is a good thing.



e) When I created all the bolt hole locations in the CAD model, I did NOT go exactly to the bolt dimension - usually I went to the next drill size up. This gives you a bit of SWAG to make up for the inaccuracies in measuring the block.

f) Then Don used my 3D model to create the girdle. Everything fits perfectly - every dang hole is exactly where it needs to be. That is probably more 'lucky than good' on my part. Hell of a nice bit of work by Don and crew!

Here is the final piece - bolted to the block . . . guess we managed to get that "Fat Hog in a Girdle" after all

Close your eyes and listen closely, I bet you can hear the big ole' girl let out a squeeeeeeeeeeeel of delight! Ain't she purdy . . .

 

That is one REALLY nice piece of Emaginering Dale. Fine machine work by Don. Great job by all. I can't wait to see this speed wagon roll.

 

Don't ya just love it when some guys use their heads for something other than a " Hat Rack"..............................
Great job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Okay . . . I'm here on the puter, hell of a storm coming through (God is throwing some bolts of juice at me!), have had a couple good strong cocktails and yah know what? (Okay, pass the popcorn, double butter please, take a seat you bastards!)

I'll tell yah what . . . I'm one fortunate SOB to know all of you guys, work side-by-side (okay, over the internet!) and build something like this. I've put my own 34 Coupe on hold since last September and it doesn't matter . . . as what we're all doing here, few have ever done . . . and those who have, completely understand the consumption, delinquency and hysteria of it all.

The fact that all you goofy bastards are willing to work on, support or root for a project like this with Buddy, the FlatCAD Crew and the likes of me . . . shows that there are still some of us who give a crap about what is real, what you can touch, but what you can never quite explain . . . old shit, traditional shit, real shit -- the shit that puts the triple damn chrome plating on the heart of a true Hot Rodder. If you don't get it, it doesn't matter . . . if you're reading this post, cool by me . . .

Glug, glug . . . as Pete would say . . . time for Martoonie Number 3!

Lets make it happen boys n' girls - we have a lot to do, and we're going to make August at BVille! The road has always been paved by those who quit early Keep the momentum . . .

 

Glug, Glug . . . #4 coming up . . . any of you guys still with me

 

I'm with ya Dale, Glug , Glug. Was out to Pete's the other day. Talk about an Old Geizzer that won't quit. He would amaze you. 80 years young and still racing!!!

 

That's why we invited the crafty bastard to be on the team! Pete has forgotten more about cams, BVille and racing than the rest of us will learn in the rest of our lives. (Truth be told, he hasn't forgotten shit!)

I've "known" Pete for about 7 - 10+ years or so . . . because of the HAMB and yet we've never met. The fact that he is going to come to BVille, be up front and center on the FlatCAD crew, be a driver . . . says a LOT about the man. (I think he's lost his damn mind ).

Beware though . . . Pete is a crafty Bastard . . . he has his ole' paws in quite a few HotRod and Bonneville flathead things -- some that I'd have to kill yah if I told yah!

Not only that . . . he's drank a few beers with Burt Monro --> and Burt may have had the 'World's Fastest Indian' . . . but Pete is going to help create the 'Worlds Fastest FlatCAD' . . . or blow shit up trying!

Any of you guys on the fence for Bonneville . . . get your damn tickets for shit sake . . . hell, my Mom is coming . . . and she is 78!

 

Dale, that girdle fits awesome!

Roy, was Pete drinking that 'shine I sent him?

And Dale, I agree with you- The guys on the fence need to jump on board!

 

Amen!

We are fortunate to get to know people with the same intrest, and be able tho get sooo valuable help. THANKS
Just Ordered my Flatcad T-shirt!
Wish i could go to B.ville. and support you, but no funds this year!

...............................
Taildragger&fenderless

 

Thanks for ordering a T-Shirt Fenderless . . . now you have to wear it when you fire up that flathead digger of yours!

We know you'll be here in spirit -- that is for damn sure AND start planning for next year!

 

Ok, wrenchbender and Mike have been busy with mechanical and body work.

Brake pedal, master cylinder, clutch setup.

A little body work. Yes, there is bondo in the car.

Modifications to the new hood, and WZ JUNK's work.

It's coming along- Kudos to all involved!

 

She doesn't seem to have that same stance as when found under the tree in Chanute huh? Awesome Build!!!

 

When you set that record...I better get a call for a "Celebration Drink"

 

Weekend Update: Fitting the Main Caps to the Block - The Boring Ass Details:

Spent most of the weekend working on the steel billet main caps - precision grinding them for block fitment.

When I sent the 3D models to Don, I requested that he put about .005 oversize on all the dimensions - such that I could use my surface grinder to exactly fit them to the block.

Some of you are wondering "What the hell is a surface grinder?". It is a precision piece of equipment that is used in places like tool and die shops to finish grind flat plates of steel. It doesn't remove much material - I typically remove .0005 to .00075 a pass. It can accurately remove .00025 at a time. My small version came from back when I used to make punches/dies for my Dad's business. We used it to sharpen punches and dies for our punch press. A dang handy machine to have . . .

Things that needed to be done:

a) Cap Thickness: The front-to-rear thickness of the caps needed to be set to match the block and crankshaft dimensions. On the rear cap (where we're moving the thrust to mimic a BBC), the bearing width needed to be exact and match the rear main of a BBC (which is the bearings we're using).





b) Saddle Width - Critical!: Every engine design has a method to index/align the main bearing caps. On a Flathead Ford it is the circular index notches that are cut into the block that receive a circular protrusion on the cap (kind of unusual). On a Flathead Cadillac it is a precision fit of the bottom edges of the main caps to a receiver area in the block (side to side). Basically the last 1/4" of the cap is used to center the cap in the block. The stock caps were kind of loose -- I wanted to make sure that our new caps had a slight press fit that requires a brass/nylon hammer to seat them.

There is no way that my milling machine is accurate enough to hold a half-thousandth (.0005) - which is about how accurate you need to be to set the cap widths. The surface grinder is perfect for this -- it just takes a long time . . . considering I'm taking 1/2 a thousandth off at a time

One Damn Problem: My surface grinder wasn't tall though to turn the caps on end. SHIT! So, I decided to remove the magnetic plate and make a new surface plate to bolt in it's place -- this gave me another inch of height. I had a piece of 1/2 tool steel that I machined such that I could bolt a machinists block to it - to orient the caps to grind their ends. Before I bolted anything to it, I used the surface grinder to prepare the surface to be 100% true to the machine.

Here is my new plate -- before I bolted on the precision block to it:



Much better - now I can fit the caps in . . . now don't laugh at my C-Clamp, too lazy to make something better looking





I had to test fit each cap and remove .0005 at a time once I was close. I had them all in and out of the block a bunch of times . . . just creeping up on the final size. When completed, all three caps have the same tightness - which is really good.

Here you can see all three - with the witness marks from the block:



Here is the front and rear caps - in the block with the girdle plate on:





Here you can see the bearing bore diameter difference between the stock 'FlatCad' and the new main caps. We're going to align bore/hone the block out to BBC bearing diameters -- which is what you see in the billet cap:



Anybody still awake after this dissertation?

I know - this was a boring trip through main bearing cap sizing and fitment, thought that maybe somebody would benefit from the details. It is amazing how long precision work like this takes . . . spent just about the whole weekend on it - but the results make it worth it.

 

This is just the sort of boring-ass details that I like to see . The kind of details skipped over in most builds, or listed as 'adjusted tolerances' or some such rot. And it's good to see you've got an idea how to make the FlatCad work at the power levels you want, with some engineering and hot-rodding knowledge behind it. Please keep up the detailed posts!

 

Having spent a good deal of my working life, (25 years) in various machine shops including quite a few in Aerospace Tool and Die work, before I decided to "drop out" and become a self employed A&P mechanic, (now retired) I can appreciate your work. That thing is really going to be more "your engine" than a Cadillac when it finally comes to life. Really enjoying following this build...live the dream!!

 

Dale
Having also spent a large part of my life as a tool & die maker I can absolutely agree with 440. I'll bet that that old Sanford is a hand cranker isn't it? My arm is tired just from looking at it. But still, if your arm is worn out when you through, Dale, you can send that old thing over to me I&#8217;d love to have it in my shop. It&#8217;s the only way to do fits like those.

 

Yep Roy . . . you guessed it, a hand cranker . . . kind of like a 'Model T' of surface grinders. It is kind of like an old friend - probably didn't use it for 15 years, but once your left hand is on the back/forth crank, you feel right at home. You almost don't have to even think when you're making a pass - kind of on "auto pilot" -- hands just do what they know to do.

You're right, it is really handy for precision small surface work like this - damn glad I had it. Doing the work in this slow way takes a lot of time (would hate to pay 'shop rates for it'), but it is nice to know you take a 1/4 thousandth off at a time when you need to

 

Part of the reason I left the machine shop work...everything was going CNC and we were just becoming "operators" rather than "machinists"...I preferred the old style hands on, one off stuff so rather than try and find a small old style shop which didn't seem to exist around here anymore, I went into aviation work, restoring old steel tube and wood and fabric aircraft. More satisfaction when I got done with a project.

 

Simply amazing I can't wait to hear it..........you have to you tube it when it first fires up Buddy

 

Love what you're doing with the flathead Cad!...Excellent!!....here's an old Oregon hotrod that was restored recently....another flatcad motorhead...pics from Albert Drakes book; "Portland Pictorial: The 1950s"..