I think along with changing that line I'd go through and check/change the other rubber lines and check to make sure that the inlet to the fuel filter wasn't being blocked off a bit to where low pressure from the pump at an extended idle wasn't pushing enough fuel through it. Check for kinks in those lines and anything else that doesn't look right. I was wondering about the gas cap venting right but you say that otherwise it drives all right except when you have to idle for a prolonged period. Usually a plugged vent will let you get a couple of miles from the house and then the car acts like it runs out of gas when it still has gas.
Checking and/or replacing the old gas cap wouldn't hurt. I'll put a locking one. Hell, with gas prices maybe peeps are ganking my fuel!
Are you sure your fuel line isn't plugged with crud? My '53 Chevy let me sit a couple times when I first started driving it, and I had to replace my fuel pump twice. It was crud from the tank getting into the line. First I "fixed" it by putting a fuel filter way back by the tank (BEFORE it could ruin my pump), and eventually I fixed it for good by installing a brand-new gas tank.
Check to make sure your fuel tank is vented okay. If the engine is ****ing fuel out of the tank, and it's not vented - it will **** a rubber hose shut. I don't remember if the cap is vented, or there is a hose on the tank. If it's a hose, blow through it with your mouth to make sure it's clear (preferably couple a new piece on the end for your mouth). If it's the cap, try taking it off when you have the problem to see if air gets ****ed into the tank when you remove it.
Wouldn't rule out crud! Have already planned on pulling and checking the tank anyways, since it is a new vehicle to me. But it seems heat related, since once it cools down the fuel filter fills back up. None the less I plan on overkill and doing all the aforementioned fixes!
I had a similar problem on my 50 Chevy 216. Found a couple of valves were maladjusted and the push rods were slightly bent. Straightened them out and properly adjusted the values...problem solved.
I would think that would sound and run like ****! Doubtfully hoping that is not the issue. Thanks for the input though!
The next time it stops like that go back and unscrew the gas cap and see if you hear the sides of the tank pop back out or air **** in the tank. I went through three new name brand "vented" caps before I got one that was actually vented. I'm not saying that this is your problem but I walked a mile to a gas station once thinking I had run out of gas and figured it out the next time because I had a can of gas in the trunk and hopped out and opened the gas cap and heard he sides of the tank pop back out. It quit in the same exact spot both times. And the trash/crud in the tank thing is something to think about on any old car, especially one that may have sat for long lengths of time.
I'm going with vapor lock... when i was younger my uncle would carry a gallon of water in the back seat of his ford because it would vapor lock if he sat still more than a few mins... he would pour it over the fuel pump and base of carb... start right up...try it next time it stops and rule that out..
What are the thoughts on the oil bath cleaner restricting air flow, therefore adding insult to injury during the possible vapor locking?! Separate altogethor or is it plausible?
Air filter may be restrictive, plausible If its restricting flow a idle, it would be restricting even more of the needed flow increase running down the road. Less air = rich air fuel mixture, plugs would be black . would run like the choke is partially closed, smell rich maybe some black smoke, sooty tailpipe. Sound like your problem?.
Try a paper element for diagnostics. This is getting confusing, its running rich and like the choke is closed, kinda sluggish and flat or its running good at all times except extended idle time periods where it seems to be starving for fuel. I'm not trying to add to the confusion we'd like to see you fix it but I need some clarification Trouble shooting has a logical flow and this would be a different train of thought all together.
It's running good except with extended idles. The time it did it before I don't feel like I was sitting at any one place to long. But after this last time when I was at idle for a long time is when I noticed the black soot. Would adjusting the choke towards lean help, plus cleaning the oil bath?
Ok, first thing is if its running rich at idle and only at idle it could be the Carb idle adjustment screws. the Carb should be loading up if that's the case, also could be the Carb is leaking unmetered fuel at idle which would also be loading up the Carb. Rich smell and sooty pipes. Could be the choke malfunctioning or adjusted improperly. WINGING THE THROTTLE open SHOULD TEMPORARILY STRAIGHTEN THAT OUT. however you said it didn't but made it worse. These checks focus on the IDLE characteristics only. It drives perfect otherwise correct? Visual and physical inspect the choke flap. When it's cold it should go to closed and fast idle. When it's warm it should be open and off of fast idle on the normal idle adjustment screw. Look for fuel dropping into the Carb in un atomized form. Might be a drip, a stream, a trail, who knows but look for something Not right. Both of those need the have air cleaner ***embly off. Pull a plug and see what it looks like. If those check out ok, then" use a vacuum gauge to adjust the air fuel mixture screws". If you don't know what I mean then search that phrase and plenty of info will be there.
Check for any place the fuel line and the exhaust get close. Airflow may cool it enough when running down the road but not enough when standing still. Westbay down town has some insulating tape that should cure any "hot spots". Also the 235 fuel pump has inner screens that can plug up, reducing its ability to overcome the the vapor lock.
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