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whats the best way to brace a soon to be convertible?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by caseyscustoms, Apr 26, 2011.

  1. caseyscustoms
    Joined: May 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,031

    caseyscustoms
    BANNED
    from st.joe, MO

    i have a 51 chevy that will soon be becoming a convertible what/how do i need to brace this bad boy up so i will still be able to open the doors, have good fender gaps, ect. ect. whenver it doesnt have a roof?

    any input would be very helpful.

    thanks
     
  2. Box the frame rails
    Tie the door jambs to the floor bracing
    Add a sheer panel at the door jambs and cowl
    Beef up the windshield posts and header.
    Brace it up before you cut This apart.
    Easy
     
  3. caseyscustoms
    Joined: May 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,031

    caseyscustoms
    BANNED
    from st.joe, MO

    thanks. i knew i needed to brace it before i started cutting.
     
  4. rustrustler
    Joined: Mar 18, 2005
    Posts: 281

    rustrustler
    Member

    It would seem to me that you would want to reinforce the frame to stop any flexing and keep your doors shut. Also on a 63 t-bird that someone had removed the roof they put cross bracing in the area under the package tray, once again to stiffen up the body. Good luck, Mike.
     
  5. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 24,894

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    ^^ frame rails are already boxed.

    'verts have a big heavy X holding the frame together.

    'verts have a brace inside the floor that goes from one side to the other a couple inches in front of where the rear seat riser is... they also have a pretty heavy gauge L bracket right at the rear part of each door jamb. been a while since I spent any time around a convertible, but I'd guess the whole interior part of the quarter panel is different. not sure what they have to strengthen the firewall from flex, but I'd guess there is something there as well.



    IMHO there is no better way to ruin a car than to cut the roof off.
     
  6. fms427
    Joined: Nov 17, 2006
    Posts: 865

    fms427
    Member

    Look closely at a Chev convert if you can. I would guess a large "X" member in the frame, as well as increased gages on side rails. You need to increase rocker section strength - if you are replacing rockers on the car - hide a length of 2X3 or 2X4 tubing in there - tied into the body structure - works wonders (did that on my shoebox convertible). Windshield pillar also needs strength.
     
  7. customcory
    Joined: Apr 25, 2007
    Posts: 1,831

    customcory
    Member

    A convertible parts car would be nice to have, but also hard to find.:D
     
  8. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,325

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj

    I had a customer's 56 Ford ragtop that had a history of problems with alignment, doors not opening/closing, etc.
    Even though I probably fixed all the problems that might have caused these issues, bad body mounts, rotten floors, I decided to try and make the car even better than original, and brace it up more.
    Before installing rockers, I welded in a 2 x 2, 16 ga., steel square tubing to the inner rockers, and sill plate area.
    I ran a 1 x 1 1/2" tubing up the door jamb, to just below the lock, welded to the inner, and the jamb, and the 2 x 2. Then tri-angulated a piece of 1 x 1 from the top of the door jamb brace to the inner wheel well. Be careful here, to avoid interference with the workings of the quarter window, I had to curve this one slightly. The car had an extra brace under the back seat., I made one out of tubing, taller and stronger than original, and tied it to the door jamb brace with some 1/8" plate. That's all I could fit in.
    A brace was welded in across the bottom of the dash, as well. I probably could have welded in another 1 x 1 1/2 in the front door jamb and tied it into the dash and cowl, but I thought the area was probably strong enough already. But it couldn't hurt to do so.
    Most convertible versions have the huge X frame, as has been mentioned, easy to fab one up. I like using 1 x 3 top and bottom, with 1/8 plate joining the 2, like an "I" beam.
    Many ragtops also have an extra 1/4" plate welded to the bottom of the existing ch***is for support, as well. Runs from under the rear spring mounts, right up to where the lower A frames mounts.
    Lotsa work!!!!!!
     
  9. The 49-54 Convertible frame has a big I-beam X added through the center of the car, roughly from the cowl to around the rear spring perches. I've sold several of them. The stock frame is pretty flexible, they do need the bracing.
     
  10. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 5,080

    phat rat
    Member

    Maybe BobK will see this. If not pm him as his vert was a hard top to start with
     

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