exhaust pipe on back of engine??

A Poly Vinyl Chloride Valve? Never seen one

 

pvc gate valve

 

Yep, loose the synthetic oil does not work well in Pre 90 or so engines . 20-50 0r straight 30 would be best.

 

My favorite post of the day. Getting as much mileage out of that link as possible!

 

That's a great idea ClayMart - Ill check that first. The oil was really watery and I seem to remember thinking it smelled of gas.

 

The watery oil, and the probability that gas has been running into the cylinders, goes hand in hand with the blow-by out of the road draft tube. music, the cylinders are what we call " washing-down ", excess fuel, unburned actually washes down the cylinder walls from its protective film of oil. The cylinder walls wear, as well as the rings. The excess fuel will go right past the rings into the crankcase, making your oil black and watery. The wearing of the cylinder walls and the rings explain the excessive blow by from the draft tube. None of what I said is meant to be silly or humorous. It could actually be quite serious. beside the fact the engine is self destructing, your crankcase could be filling up with gasoline. Next time you drain your oil, check how much you get out of it. Also, oil in the crankcase, means the oil is diluted and unable to properly provide the film of oil to protect all the bearings and critical rotating and recipricating parts of the engine. Hence the term- self destructing. I purposely kept the terminology simple for the O/P, not trying to make a statement here, just help him. TR

 

When it comes time to freshen up the power plant,take a long look at the 283 that you have,great reliable little motors and you can tart them up like a prom queen!

 

Your "Mechanic" is not. Try to find one old enough to shave. No kidding. You really need a more knowledgeable person to work on your car. And with luck, after running a while the rings may free up in the lands and the smoke may lessen. Fingers crossed.

 

Man Steve can't you play nice?
I just about lost it when I read this, spit my water all over my keyboard, you never know what you might read next on here these days. Oh well, it is kind of entertaining.......Spike

 

Love the disclaimer at the end! Christ what a weak society



Poverty leaves an impression

 

Good point, TR! I wasn't even thinking about the carb flooding and gas washing down the cylinders. 'Course if that's the case and his rings are sticking this ought to help free them up!

 

I'm not sure about the Haynes manual being the best one in this case. go on Amazon and type in How to rebuild small block chevrolet V8's.
http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Y...=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1303861142&sr=1-1

That one is old enough that it is more related to your engine than some of the newer ones that get too wrapped up in fuel injection systems and what not. Sometimes you can find it at Borders, B&N or O"Reilly's or Autozone.

If the car doesn't knock and holds decent oil pressure I wouldn't be the least bit afraid to drive it 90 miles to a rod trot. If it is making too much noise you might want to wait though.

 

Fuel pumps are relatively inexpensive [about $30] and it would be wise to change it. The diaphragms get brittle with age and the old ones aren't made for the alcohol in today's gas. A new pump should have a diaphragm that will work with the gas they sell today. If you change the pump, you can put a longer bolt in the front mount hole to hold the push rod up when you remove the pump.

 

To OP:
Dude, you need a new consultant.

DW

 

This thread kind of makes me go, "Hmmmm... How dumb was I when I started?"

 

Not dumb. Inexperienced. Big difference.

 

Smart *** remarks are no help to a new guy in the car hobby.
The synthetic oil is not a good idea. If the crankcase is getting
gasoline in it from whatever source(fuel pump diaphragm or
carb.) that must be corrected soon.
Don't forget that the drained oil is very volatile with gas in it.
BE VERY CAREFUL with it. Replace the oil filter (not a Fram).
Be nice but don't return to that "mechanic".

 

Great advice everyone, I appreciate the all of the lessons and opinions. I'm gonna try a few things (another oil change and a new fuel pump) and try to get to torquefest this weekend. Maybe I'll see some of you there. Perhaps this fall I will end up pulling the engine for a rebuild - that should be a good lesson for me. Hpefully I can make it through the summer and a few shows intact.

 

Oh, musicknerd, I forgot to tell you, there's a great book, long out of print, called Fix Your Chevrolet. It covers all from 1954-1970. It was written by Bill Toboldt. If you can find one, get it. (edit: there are several of them for sale on eBay right now, all pretty reasonably priced)

 

If the fuel pump was leaking gas into the oil, it could cause the rich condition. Not as easy with the road draft system as with a pcv system. If the idle mixture screws had to be turned all of the way in, the carburetor might need to be worked on. Is the gas in the tank old?

 

Gas in the tank is new, it was dry about a month ago. I am going to get a fuel pump tomorrow and put that in, the carb is new too. Though after some research I found I might need to pull the screws out and send air through the holes to ensure that no crud got in there. It sat without an air cleaner for about year, but wasn;t ran and sat in the garage.

 

Good call on the fuel pump, on age alone- if it's not bad, it would be soon. Any luck finding the Seafoam and Henway?

 

I found the seafoam, thanks Gene. You have been sufficiently humorous.

 

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=28
Order one from here as well.

 

Johns old, he has seen it all......

 

The guy just forgot and can't remember!

 

I just spit breakfast all over the place THANKS. Now that is just too much.
You think the Mech. will recognize the mechanical accelerator pump on th lower side of the engine ? You know the one that has a direct line to the Hydrogen tank in the back.

 

Sounds like you've already been snipe hunting, eh?

 

Well while I might not have the extensive engine knowledge that you all have (which is why I am *here* in the best place to get it ), I'm surprisingly not a total idiot, much to the chagrin of a few people here it seems...

So I picked up the seafoam and did the treatment this morning, 1/2 in the crankcase, 1/2 in the carb. It smoked lightly for a few minutes. I drove it around town for a few minutes - it ran like **** (sputtering, hesitations), and the oil pressure was down, between 5-10 at idle, not much more during driving - albeit 25-30 mph in city limits. It was actually running better yesterday before the seafoam.. I did recycle the oil this morning at the parts store, and it smelled like nothing BUT fuel.

Got it out on the two lane at 55 for a couple of minutes, ran ok once at speed but accelerating was a bit "sputtery", had to flutter the pedal a bit. I'm hoping that once I change the oil, replace the pump and filter and put a handful of more miles on it, it will run better.

I also picked up some 20/50 oil and a new filter, fuel pump and fuel filter, and gaskets to fix an exhaust leak that I found at the bottom of the header. The plan is to complete all of this tomorrow, hopefully it will be running good enough to get me over to torquefest saturday morning.