So i got a 49' ford F1 with a few rust spot which im afraid will pit if i try to remove completely and should be fine if i use a nice dose of POR-15. I would just cut the small pieces out with patch panels but their a little hard for me to make and impossible to find unless you wanna without cutting off another cab. So the problem is that 1 of the spot that need a dose of por15 is like behind the cab next to the bed where it will need to be painted the same color as the rest of the truck. So i called the friendly people at POR15 and told them about my little problem. I brought up two suggestions on how i was told to do it and what the tech thought about it. waiting till the POR15 gets tacky then shooting it with POR15/tie coat. I was told from a few hotrodders that it'd be ok shooting it tacky. I was also told that you can shoot the tie coat over the dried and cured POR15 and as long as the tie coat was the one listed below you didnt have to rough up the POR15 and it should be easy. http://www.por15.com/TIE-COAT-PRIMER/productinfo/TCG/ OR Rough up the POR15 then shoot 2 coats of a good epoxy primer over the entire thing. Its kinda what i was leaning more towards. POR15 tech response- He said that either way you HAVE to rough up the POR15 before you use the POR15 tie coat. You have to roughen up the POR15 if you use more than one coat of POR15. If you shoot anything over POR15 while it is tacky he said he heard reports of it kinda aligatoring up due to the way it shrinks as it dries which whatever coat you put on it might not shrink. He also said that when you get ready to shoot over POR15 that to just clean it off with water and no detergents since POR15 has nasty reactions to several including acetone. He actually said that shooting it with eopxy primer would probably be the best. So what i got out of it is this and what i plan on doing. Dont use acetone to clean the por15 still gotta roughen up por15 no matter shooting their own tie coat or shooting it with epoxy primer. dont shoot anything over POR15 before it its already cured. So here is my closing statements. Ive NEVER used POR15 and am going off what im picking up here and there. Every one has their own opinion on what works and what doesn't. Id like to hear what other people experiences have been with the product so i can make a decision on which direction to go.
I wouldn't use POR 15 on any surface I wanted to eventually have finish paint on. paint is too much work to re-do later after a failure to skimp on preparation.
I've had good luck with POR 15. Their Tie Coat says that you only have to scuff sand the cured POR with 600 grit. It also says that you can apply it within 24 hours & no sanding is required. I don't buy that, so I'd stick with sanding a little. Dan
Nothing sticks to POR 15 for long. Your paint will chip off forever. Been there done that. NFG! Use something else. Maybe the Eastwood stuff. I've used it but haven't had the car on the road long enough to see how it holds up.
just sand blast the spots and spray on a good self etch primer then u can spray a catalyzed high build primer over that!
I used por 15 and sprayed the expoxy on dry and it all wrinkled up. I did the top of my quater panel with the Por 15 and used their tie coat, then top coat with color and clear - it has been 12 years and never a problem!
I used Por-15 almost 6 years ago on the 55. Floors , trunk both inside and out and wheel wells. I let it cure then painted gloss black over it and the wheel wells got undercoated and no problems yet.
6 years on the trunk lid of an OT MGB. POR-15, TieCoat (pretty sure I scuffed) top coat and clear. No issues - still looks great
I sprayed it all over the rear quarters on my roadster to protect it while i built it got told i could use filler over it and prime as normal so i did,it ended softening it all up and having to strip the lot off which was quite easy as it came off in sheets with a blade
I would like to bump this up. I have some surface rust in the bed of my Truck dont want to blast it and was hoping to try the Por 15 deal. I was gonna try to put it in some of the seams of the truck too
i had a customer use some por15 on a couple rust pits on his 72 chevelle. 80 grit and a d/a wouldn't cut it..... i used it on the inside trunk area on my anglia...worked really well on there.
From the sounds of it everyone either HATES or LOVES POR15. I do know that if you dont scuff the metal, clean the hell out of it and then apply it then it wont work. I was reading up more on the actual POR15 and the Tie coat directions and i dont think ive had Girlfriends with as many warning labels and directions and trust me when i say ive dated some winners in my day. If you look at the directions on the POR15 there is a part that says "7. If you are perspiring and a bead of sweat drops into the POR-15 can, the paint is ruined and should be thrown out. It won’t stick properly." and then if you read up on the Tie coat directions it says "Topcoating Allow a minimum of 24 hours before applying any topcoat over Tie-Coat Primer. Failure to allow enough time before applying topcoats may result in spidering or crinkling of finish." There is a whole like 4 step process to using the stuff if you wanna use marine clean and all the other junk they sell with it but im honestly leaning towards just scuffing it up and maybe buying the marine clean **** and shooting epoxy over it. Granted im doing it all in my garage so its not the best condition but ive gotten pretty far in my 27 years on this world taking a risk or two. Ill just try to not eat any Mcdonalds and have my fat a$$ sweat into the paint can.
I've had mixed results... it's all about the prep! I helped my Father use POR 15 on the frame of one of his cars 15 or so years ago. We sandblasted the frame and cleaned the heck out of it and it has stuck and looked good ever since then. I used it on my A and had just wire brushed the frame and did not do the greatest job of cleaning it... it has since pealed off and needs to be repainted. IMPORTANT: WEAR GLOVES... I was a dumb*** and did not wear gloves, the paint stuck to my skin for close to 2 weeks!!!
Por15 works the best on rust or rough surface metals such as sandblasted..it will not hold onto any other materials or smoothed cleaned metals, I wonder if that where some have had bad experiances. Once its applied to rough or rusted surface its on for good! I did the whole underneath and inside of the 54 with it 4 years ago and its not coming off! Just did the inside of my 51 truck and it ****ed it right up...Im a fan!!!
here are the specs - best to read 'em http://www.por15.com/quickindex.asp http://www.por15.com/Data%20Sheets/blackcote%20directions.pdf
Much as I like POR-15, and been using it for over 30 years, I don't use it under anything that gets "good" paint on it. Floors, trunks, undercarriages, backsides of panels, and welded areas,or driver quality ch***is. NOT on the outside body.
A friend thinned it down and sprayed it, had a mask filter malfunction and everything went to **** within seconds. Was almost cause for a trip to the emergency room, he had respiratory problems for days afterwards. If you are sanding back POR15 to paint over it, make sure you suit up and wear a mask and goggles, it's really really nasty stuff.
So i did a little test panel. I cuffed the hell out of a sheet of metal, applied the POR15 making sure it was an even and no drips, then i let it cure for a few days. I wanted to scuff the POR15 without getting to wild and burning through it so i actually used just regular old 120 grit sand paper and my hand or wrapped around a piece of cardboard. I then used some "marine clean" and scrubbed it and wiped it dry. Then i just shot it like you normally would. That was a few days ago so that the primer was good and cured. I then for the fun of it blasted it with air, then a heated pressure washer, and finally a sand blaster. So i cant say what the outcome will be down the road a few years but i think if you actually take the time to apply it right and cuff it then it should work...... so far.
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