Does anyone still use the old style glue in the tubes for doing plastic models? Or have the serious builders all switched over to the modern Isocyanates ?
I think Fat Hack said he still uses it.... I did when I was younger, and found the blue tube to be better than the orange tube.....but don't use either anymore.
Yep...I still use the Testors glue in the orange tubes...same shit I've been using since I built my first car model...an MPC General Lee back in 1980!!
Testors has a little triangle shaped bottle, called "Model Master" glue. It's a bit thicker than the liquid cement, but not as bad as the tube glue. It usually has a metal tube/applicator tip that is a bit more precise than the tube stuff. Plus, it doesn't get stringy. You can usually find it in a hobby shop....it's all I ever use.
Hell yeah!! I use good ol' Testors in the orange n' white tube. Didn't like using the non-toxic blue tube . But then again , I'm not a serious builder Josh
I use just Isocyanates. All the different viscosities. The old Testors white and orange tube glues formula was changed years ago to prevent me from getting high while building MPC funnycar models. Just not as good today, IMHO. Joel
Yes and no... Tho old kind of tube cement is a thing of the past for most serious builders. While isocyanate is perfect for fitting parts togeter fast, the bond is not as strong as it seems and it do not make any adjustments possible. For big parts first I use "Zap-a-gap" isocyante with a slight fillig effect, then afterwards I use liquid Revell cement (similar to Testors Model Master glue) all over the joint. That will "weld" the parts together. In some cases, when adjustment might be needed, I use some liquid styrene glue first in a few places, then when the parts are in perfect positions I use some "Zap-a-gap" on a few other places. When everything is dry I end up with some more styrene glue that will penetrate and "weld" all over the joint. For small parts I use a minimum amount of isocyante, but if the fit is good and the seam will be hidden then I use liquid styrene cement. But beware, the smallest parts will melt with styrene cement! For clear parts (windows, headlight lenses etc.) I use 2-part epoxie cement. Never use isocyante on those parts as it will "fog" the clear plastic. When parts are fitted temporary I do some times use "white glue", the wood/paper glue. This glue will not affect plastic at all but can be used if parts will be removed again. For resin parts the styrene cement do not work at all, then its only isocyante or epoxie that is posssible choice.
The wood glue is also great for gluing in the windows. As RPW said, it doesn't affect the plastic at all, but the best thing about it is you don't have to be too careful with it. As it dries clear, you can just smear it around and not worry about getting it on the windows etc. It doesn't 'melt' the plastic though, so the bond isn't as strong and takes longer to dry, but I've used it quite a few times. If the models are displayed and don't get handled much, there won't be a problem. Another trick for using the Orange/White tube glue is to squirt a small amount out on a surface and then use a toothpick to apply the glue to the parts. Best thing to squirt the glue on to are those Laminex sample chips. Just go down to your local hardware store, grab a handful and they'll last forever. When the glue builds up too much, just give the piece of laminex a bit of a flex or get under the built up glue with a knife and Hey Presto! New bit of laminex.
The orange/white tube glue ROCKS if ya know how ta use it! (Just like any of your real car tools...I got a crappy old mangled tubing bender that cost me maybe a dollar brand new, but I learned how to use it and developed a feel for what the tubing will do, and now I bend up some wicked cool hard lines for my cars with it...and people laugh themselves sick and think it's a joke when I show 'em the bender I used to do the trick lines!) I use the method you mentioned, only I ain't high tech enough for toothpicks and Laminex...I use a piece of plastic sprue after shaping the tip with a disposable Testors hobby knife, and squirt the glue onto the instruction sheet! That's my 'secret' for installing windows with that Testors glue...use a deftly shaped piece of sprue as an applicator, then hold the window in place for a few seconds! I've tried fancier and more expensive hobby supplies over the years, but found that I do my best work with Testors products...from their glue and paint, to their knives, sanding films and paint brushes. If you learn to use these 'cheap' tools and supplies right...you'll rule the build, just like mastering the old, cheap, mangled tools in your garage! (People see my real cars then ask where I built 'em when they don't see any 'real' tools laying around the garage...it's all about knowing how to use what ya got and making it work!)
Until this thread, I didn't know that there was any other kind of model glue! I always squeezed a drop onto an old magazine, and then applied it with a toothpick for better control. I must have ruined a number of now valuable magazines doing that. Are isocyanates the same as Crazy Glue?
Me too the only problem is you have to use very small amounts or the shit eats the plastic. But then again not enough will dry up and not last very long. I've learned to use orange tube and then superglue to re inforce the bond.
I don't know how serious I am, but I'll use Zap-a-Gap, Tenax (liquid cement) or 5 Min. epoxy, depending on the application.
Iso's just grab the surfaces and hold them together mechanically. I like to chemically weld the pieces of plastic together so I either use a Weld-on product or right now I have a bottle of "TAMIYA EXTRA THIN CEMENT" store tightly capped. Kep away from heat or flame. Keep out of reach of children. Then ! Warning: This product contains chemicals which are known to the state of California to cause birth defects, or other reproductive harm. That's all I can read because the rest is in Japanese. It's probably your basic Acetone toluene and some kinda ketone mix that melts the two surfaces of plastic and pressing them together while melted they join. Doesn't work over paint or chrome, just fucks them up and clouds clear if you get nuts with it. I only use it out doors... I dno't build models i a closed up garage in December like I used to when I was a kid. Remember sitting in a bar stool at the garage work bench for hours working on three or four model cars at the same time and then getting up and staggering into the house and not really noticing anything was odd??? I have a '61 Tbird model sitting next to me as I type this. It has a Lincoln engine, Latham bower. full tuck & roll undercarriage and swivel bucket seats. I built it IN '61!
How do you get to the thin metal applicator on the testors? Every bottle I've ever had has the tapered plastic that can be unclogged maybe once and then becomes permanently glued shut. There's some piece of plastic stuck inside the tapered part. First botle lasted four years then I ended up buying three in six months. YES, I keep the cap on. WTF?
It was on there when I got it. Though I've had this one bottle for a few years... It comes with a couple metal de-cloggers (small straight wires). The clear parts bottle has the tapered plastic like you say, and I use the same de-cloggers to clean it out. I use the Ambroid (a welder, like DrJ is talking about) for everything pre-paint. Makes a very strong joint. On places where I need a REALLY strong joint, I'll use the Ambroid, then fill it in or cover it with super glue. The super glue also makes a good filler. For final assembly, I go between the two testors glues, and the super glue. Anything hidden (gluing the body to the chassis) I use super glue. Everything else gets the testors.
Anyone know if the Black Label is still out there? The red label ones I find all have the tapered plastic tip.
I can't remember the brand, but I use a liquid cement that comes in a blue bottle. It has a metal applicator that sometimes gets clogged. How do I clean it? I light a match, heat up the tip and give the bottle a gentle squeeze. Instant MINI FLAME THROWER!!! Disclaimer: Don't try this at home kids... Of course, you could always shove some wire down it, but that's nowhere near as much fun!
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